Greentoy

This^^^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hadn’t either, but as soon as I swapped the full Gage cluster in place of the dummy lights, my alternator quit charging. I figured it was a bad alternator since it took a few days to run out of juice and die. Replaced alternator and still no charging. The cluster I picked up was on a YJ with v6 I believe. The alternator on both the 4.0 and 2.5 both need an exciter wire circuit in order to start charging. That is handled by the light in the dummy cluster and somehow must be handled by a diode built into the gauge cluster. I suppose it is possible that the v6 models use a different alternator

No worries Gentlemen! Thanks for all the good info! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This truck was originally automatic? I would have never known! Whoever did the conversion, did a great job.

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1988 Comanche 2.5 2x4 Tag is unreadable On the road in great condition in El Paso, Tx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Congratulations! That is a great accomplishment! I never had the opportunity to do scouting growing up since we didn’t have a good troop near us at the time. I am currently the Troopmaster for a Trail Life USA troop here in west Texas. (TLUSA came out of BSA in 2014 when the board split) It has been an amazing experience to do with my son. We are getting ready for our annual 50 mile/5 day canoe trip through Big Bend National Park. It’s one of my favorite trips we do all year. What was your freedom project? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jesse J, I just saw that gladiator bumper, and I like it too! I really am a terrible MJ owner! LOL

$40 for the pair! You did good!

Thank You. I have had some people really hate on it on another thread. (cardinal sin or something?) Most have liked it though. I like it, and that is all that matters. Cost $55 instead of $250-350 each on ebay for oem.

Coolwind57, That's pretty much correct. The mounting tab on the back of the watertight wrangler lenses matched up perfectly with part of the rear housing allowing a small bolt and locknut to be used to fasten it securely. I used a black adhesive caulk (Flex seal) to fill the small gaps in the cutout, then taped off the new lenses and shot the whole thing with spray bedliner to match the texture on both pieces while adding durability. I wish I had taken pics or video during the process, but the fact is that even I am amazed at how well they turned out.

Coolwind57, I used the original cracked tail lamp assemblies as a sort of adapter for the wrangler lights. I did not cut any sheet metal and retained the original mounting screws so I could easily go back to oem later if desired. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KoopaKid, Yeah, mine were both broken and covered in tape when I got the truck, so I didn't have anything to lose.

Yeah, I was starting to get a bit frustrated this week. Now I can move forward with other stuff. :)

I didn't think to take a photo of the back of the cluster. I should have. We are always learning, as long as we are willing to learn I suppose.

This is the part you need on the yellow wire. You will need to cut out the yellow wire, crimp the side that has the black connector to the tan wire and the other side to an ignition 12v circuit ( I used the diagnostic link input wire)

Ok, so today I got the new alternator installed and still no charging I wanted to explain what I figured out to possibly save someone else the trouble in the future. I figured that I needed to go back to the cluster swap again because that's when it started acting up. Everything I read online as well (as everything I've been told on the forums) is that the Tan wire dead ends at the cluster with gauges and is only used on the cluster with dummy light. The yellow wire did not change and tested good at alternator pigtail. I pulled the cluster again and inspected it more closely where the tan

I am kind of surprised that no parts store in my city of 1 million people had the alt in stock (new or reman)

Alt tests good on bench (O'Reilly's) but not on truck. I was trying to figure out what terminals they use for testing, but no one seems to know. I do have another alt on the way just in case.

Yes, that's what's weird since most GM systems require an exciter signal from the Lamp wire, but the diagram shows a dead end on the tan wire on the gauge cluster setup while utilizing the traditional exciter setup on the idiot light cluster.

I have the electrical manual. Alternator is definitely not producing while on the truck.

That's what I figured. Continuity is good at the fusible link A. I checked that before my original post and again this morning.

I apologize for my stupid questions in advance. I am new to Renix jeeps. Most Gm CS130 alternators use the PLFS connector where only the S (sense) wire and the L (lamp) wire are used but it seems the Renix system uses only the L (lamp) connection (tan wire) and the F (field) connection (Yellow wire on mine.

Yes I have.