Jump to content

jeff351

Members
  • Posts

    323
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jeff351

  1. Can someone measure the angle off the rear of the transfer case for me? I'm installing an 8.25 axle with a small lift via shackle flip, and need to set the pinion angle. My driveline isnt installed yet.
  2. I had to unsubscribe from their channel after they started to deviate away from Project Binky. Seems like they started on other projects to generate revenue after Binky was 'almost done'. Not sure what became of that. Google search isnt showing a finished Binky
  3. whats your goal and how experienced are you with fabrication?
  4. Gas tank and filler door relocation project complete! After final body work, I used some green Eastwood internal frame coating up inside the filler door and quarter panel area, then a couple coats of undercoating. For paint, I rattle canned it with Behr "Toasty Grey" that I had laying around from something else, but its a close match to the worn factory jeep white paint. After a couple days of drying time, I reinstalled the door and filler neck, hoses, and rear bumper. Then bolted the bed back down, plugged in some wiring, and DONE Next up, I guess I need to put an axle in there.
  5. Thanks! Yeah my spare tire location options are narrowed down now: 1. In the bed 2. On the roof 3. a business card in the glovebox to a local towing company.
  6. When I was shopping on Amazon for some stuff, I stumbled across welder on Amazon.
  7. Last, to make room where the filler neck enters the rear quarter and leads down to the gas tank, I had to clearance the inside lip of the bed about 2". I notched the bottom edge for the filler and then welded in a cover made of 10g sheet metal. The hole is where this part plug weld to the back-side of the filler door recess. That way its more secure than just relying on the quarter panel sheet metal to hold the thing together.
  8. Progress report 2.0 Between work, family and life I haven't had a lot of time this summer. BUT...this part is almost done. Cut the filler door out of the XJ, cleaned up the edges to make a rectangle shape, and cut a matching hole in Scuzzy to line it up with the filler neck and tack welded it all the way around. At least, until my 30 yr old Northern Tool MIG welder died, so another delay until I picked up a nice Lincoln 180i MP Weld Pak unit. THEN I was able to finish the welding. Ug. Body work is so tedious. Tack weld, let it cool. Tack, let it cool. Took me a couple days to get the entire perimeter of this welded in to avoid warpage. Patience pays off as the more time you spend measuring and lining things up here, the easier it is to blend it all together. I had to shorten the filler nozzle exactly 1" and after that the hose lines up and doesn't require any cutting. Also figured now is a great time to replace the fuel pump, so I did that. Running PTFE braided line from the tank to some hard line I bent up. I also made a new rear brake line from cunifer which is so easy to work with. I mounted the XJ charcoal canister in the factory location by making a bracket that bolts to the frame in the same area as the XJ, so I was able to use the original XJ vapor lines without modding them. I also ordered a slightly longer rear frame-to-axle brake hose but the ends are different, so I had to modify the MJ bracket to use the XJ hose tab. I wonder how long before someone wonders why this MJ has 2 gas filler doors?
  9. great write up! Looks like i have another project to do now
  10. I love the plaid seats on the VW bus!
  11. any pics? I have a relative who often takes his restored 50s Ford Truck to this event
  12. So if you reference the photo above, you'll notice how the fuel filler/vent hose route through the frame from the gas cap to the tank. Notice my fuel tank filler nozzle lines up perfectly with the center of the frame...intentional? The XJ oval is just some sheet metal; to one-up that, I had some spare 1/8" wall DOM 2.5" tube that I cut in half and tacked in a section of 1/8" steel to make an oval. Then I got to use my nifty low profile TIG welder for the inside seam. Slam'd LowRiderCup™ Super Low Gas Lens Kit: 9, 20 & 2 Series LowRider Slammed Gas Lens Kit 9 20 & 2 Series | Arc-Zone.com [A-LRS-2] - $150.00 : Arc-Zone.com, Welding Accessories Store Then cut the matching hole in the frame and welded it in. Concerned that the leaf spring shackle was directly behind it and I might run into some structural rigidity issues, I took a piece of 3/16" wall 1.5x3 rectangular stock and welded it on the bottom edge with extra bracing on the sides and tied it all into the shackle tabs. Plenty of clearance for the shackle and I don't see this being a weak link whatsoever. Primed and hit it with some undercoating and the frame stuff is complete! Next..finishing up the new location of the fuel door. What should I do with the factory fuel door. Leave it?
  13. Its funny how some of us enjoy the giddy excitement of "when will it break down" on a road trip.
  14. I made my own. Others will probably chime in with other ideas also.
  15. Guy at work used these on the office people a few times. The cricket chirp every few minutes will drive anyone up the wall https://www.amazon.com/Gulfmew-Hidden-Cricket-Noise-Maker/dp/B0BJYZBDKM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cricket+noise+maker&qid=1685329164&sr=8-5
  16. Clearance should be fine. Where I cut is also where the front of the spare tire was.
  17. First mock install to get an idea of making the 'frame' that holds the gas tank in place. Lots of measuring, cutting, and welding gives me this result. Pretty much all of it is 3/16" stock. The hole in what used to be the X frame is to route the wiring/fuel line/vent line through. Made new fuel tank straps; same width as the factory 98 XJ ones, but thicker material. The front edge "pins" mount in some steel tubing welded to the frame so these just swing down to lower the gas tank. Final result came out pretty good. I painted it with odd-color hammertone paint I had kicking around which doesn't look the best, but once its all together you'll never see this area. With the bed back in place, the tank doesnt hang below the shackles and will be pretty much flush with the rear bumper. This is how the fuel filler hose is routed on the XJ - through the frame and to the filler door. I'll be doing something similar
  18. Before I made any cuts, I welded in a piece of 2" angle iron between the rear frame rails. This will be what the fuel tank straps get welded to. Next up is making final measurements. I used a laser level to get a straight line, then cut in using cutoff wheels and a sawzall.
  19. Next was to raise the bed so I could work underneath, and lower it to check clearance from time to time. I made a bracket from steel pipe that just bolts in place. Tested and its pretty sturdy.
  20. Time to sort out the gas tank plan I've read various posts about using Jeep/Dodge/aftermarket gas tanks for various reasons. My preference is to keep things relatively OEM so if I need a new fuel pump I don't have to look back at what I cobbled together to buy the parts I need. Looking at the 98 XJ donor jeep, I figured if I can use the factory tank it would make things easier in the long run. So first up, I pulled the XJ tank and got some measurements. Then made some measurements on the MJ frame and got to work. In this picture looking up from the underneath, I laid out a rough idea of what needed to be removed.
  21. I think you'll find some relief once you get it home, cleaned up, and have time to sit back and relax. IMHO I don't think its as bad as you think. Having a perfect show ready vehicle introduces a whole different level of stress and maintenance.
  22. went to a car meet in Charlotte last month and there were several there. One of the owners I talked to was really knowledgeable and walked me through it. Funny part was me and my buddy trying to figure out where the engine is. Really neat trucks.
×
×
  • Create New...