BeatCJ

The number indicates the size of the ring gear, by some archaic Dana Formula. Larger number, larger diameter ring gear. Axle components, bearings, shafts, brakes are all sized proportionally.

Ugh. Hottest day of the year so far, and I told the neighbor I would get rid of a downed tree for him. Then we went out and replaced 30 boxwood shrubs one of the guys that works for me ran over. Dang circle driveways...

I'm similar to mjeff87, replaced all of our appliances with matching GE appliances about 4 years ago. Our dishwasher will run shorter than that, maybe down to 75 minutes? We never use the heated dry cycle. We are extremely happy, but I am fairly meticulous in rinsing, loading and rearranging what is loaded incorrectly. We moved into this house in 2011, and it had a cheap dishwasher put in. It worked OK, but it was LOUD! We got matching Slate Appliances, my wife refused to get stainless because she had seen too many with fingerprints all over the front. With grandkids living in the house, it was the right choice for us.

Holy Cats! That's a thing of beauty. I'm going to have to see how it prints out. I think my laser printer here will feed 11x17 paper.

I don't have a wiring diagram, but in my beady little mind, 30 should always be hot. So 30 to 12 + is open. If you provide 12 volts at 30 is the fuel pump always on? If so, then it sounds as if your relay is stuck closed, too. It sounds to me like the only thing you can say for sure is that the circuit from the relay to the pump is good. I guess I'm a little confused. I would probably test the relay. 30 to 87 should be open without power to 86 and 85 grounded. Power 86 and 30 to 87 should have continuity. Or maybe I am going too far, your relay is fine and you just don't have power to 30, and you just need to fix that circuit.

Wait? Isn't 87 supposed to be 12 volts out? If you have to jump 12 volts to get the fuel pump to work, doesn't that mean you have a problem with the relay? Do you have power at the appropriate times at the other terminals?

Yes, slow blow blade fuses are available. But some quick searching shows that Maxi Fuses were developed to replace fusible links, and are available where the higher draws are required. I am going to replace the fusible link in my charging circuit with a fuse, but undersize for my circuit.

That and blower motor are on my list. I would be interested in a couple. Too many projects, working on adding a bathroom in my walkaway basement. But there is a whole list of other things that have to come first, so I trade off on working on different projects.

Thanks, I'm interested. My other choice is a JCR Kit, but I know I will have to modify it, I plan on using an 8274 upright.

I think this plug, with the red and white wires, under the MAP Sensor.

Nice job. Any plans to sell kits?

That's what I was thinking, from what I remembered from scouring threads. Reads like it is probably repairable, if you gentle the cover apart. I had a similar issue on a same year Ford truck, cold solder joints in replacement delay wiper module. This sounds more like points get gunky. On my list, I can live with single speed wipers.

I would bet that will fit. When you click on the Fitment tab, it fits over 1200 Chevy vehicles, including 4 years of Camaros that used the 3.4 engine.

Thanks. It was velcroed up out of sight, on top of the lower plastic, just to the left of the vent. Only one side was plugged in. Plugged it back in, they start, but won't stop or park correctly. And they are only single speed. I unplugged the module, plugged the connectors together. They start, stop and park, but still only are one speed. But they do sweep when you turn it toward you, for mist. I think I'll fix that ground, and when I get by a yard, grab a module or two. Is the module available NOS? Thanks. Now I need a couple of wiper blades. These are ancient, and flat. Bet they were unplugged years ago. Linkage sounds good, no clunks, and everything positions right where it should. I have ordered a bushing kit, probably will PM that, and add a ground to the motor, too, eventually.

A couple of questions. I have power to the fuse panel, and the circuit breaker has continuity. The circuit breaker had some corrosion on one of the male spades, I cleaned that off and gave it a little wipe of OxGard. When I turn the wiper switch, with the ignition on, I don't hear any relays clicking. Where is the relay I should be listening for? Is it the one just to the left of the fuse panel, on a 2 inch tail out of the big wire bundle? That would give me another spot to check for voltage. Where is the intermittent wiper module? Is it jammed between the fuse box and the side of the truck? Do I just pull that out of there, or is there a keeper/lock on a plug I'm going to destroy like the gorilla I am? I do need to clean up the under dash grounds, but from what I read, grounds mean slow, not nothing. Is there a wiper trouble tree, order to trouble shoot posted somewhere? I have searched for a couple of days, but most every thing I see is Slow or One speed wipers. Thanks in advance.

I left work an hour early, got the alternator swapped in. The 100 amp optional alternator fits just fine. Interesting thing, the sticker on the side says 100 amps at 6000 rpm, 79 amps at 2000 rpm. I ASSUME that's alternator rpm, not crank rpm. I hope my 4.0 never sees 6000 rpm.

Best bet is a junkyard with a GM Car that uses that alternator. It looks like NAPA has it as Echlin ECH EC101. Looks like it only has 3 wires, though? $18

I can't tell from your photos, but unless you have 12+ Volts to the Bat+ stud and a Ground to a negative post on a battery, like in your diagram above, it won't work.

Good information, thanks

Good to hear, I have a 100 amp alternator in hand. I probably can't get to it until this weekend.

Is that in the steering box, or the pump? I wonder if an underdrive (larger diameter) pulley would help? Of course, then you need a longer serpentine belt, too.

Before I advised to change anything, I would ask what "LooseyGoosey" means. To me, Comanche Power Steering is really light, too light for my taste, but I have thought that on every power steering Jeep I have driven, FullSize, CJs and Cherokees. Is it just that, or too much free play? Or wandering, or hunting?

At least it's not the 2.73 gears that were original in my '81 CJ-5 4 Speed. On most trails, finesse was out of the question. Swapping to 3.55 axles was huge!

I'm looking at NAPA, O' Reilly's and AutoZone, I believe stock alternators. One of the sites is showing two different body diameters. It seems like either will fit. I figure jumping from a stock 60 to stock 100 should be relatively simple, original wiring should work and all that jazz. I'll probably TOFTT and just give it a try, only one way to learn.

I'm pretty sure I need to replace my alternator, multi-meter reads 12.07 running after reading 12.6 sitting. I do need to test the alternator hot wire to make sure it's not just the fusible link, I intend to replace that wire, but I'm waiting on an Amazon Fuse Holder. Does anyone know if the 105 amp alternator will physically fit in the same bracket as the OEM 61 amp alternator? I ran into an issue with my 2001 GMC, it bolted in, but the taller alternator required a different serpentine belt.