comanche12

:agree: but i would add support like wood with jack, etc. as eagle said so for just in case if its fell on you. :smart:

welcome to forum and hey! i have subbie too expect its impreza! :thumbsup:

I'm in total same in your shoes. your not only one.

I removed my starter and exhuast before start on oil pan but mine is already 6" lifted without need use jackstand but took me total about 3 hours from start to finish. i think i gotta drop oilpan again for stupid rear main seal :doh: but at least I got more better tools to use it.... air rachet :wrench: expect my air compressor is screwed up. :(

I was thinking same thng but unforuntley my air compressor is screwed up. Thanks to my brother :doh: so all I have now is 4" grinder from harbor freight. Too big to fit in. Yeah I did use the chisel(actually air hammer :thumbsup: ) after grind the race(tend be inner race) down. It's fun to do that on wheel hub bearing.

Ok thanks! I'll try this interesting trick tonight :cheers: Hopefully it's work. Perfect time for me because my good frend Jason(the guy who welded my rear brake caliper brackets) will come by tonight to weld tiny exhaust hole, rear axle hole that I addicent drill too big for breather :oops: so I'll ask him if can he do that trick with outer race. :chillin:

I do have welder but not full expert. A bead as like welding on race but make a bead on low volt without fuse bead on race? More info on it please I'm interesting about that one :popcorn:

oh ok, make sense :D keep it up. I'm really curious how this nice leather bucket seat look like in your mj

i don't care if scratch it. i already have new one ready to install. so i just want to remobve this old race out. sadly i don't have torch. haha :roll: I'm not sure how you mean by drill it and chisel it by oppside? its on flange guide not housing like front axle. its rear axle :dunno: edit: sorry to forget it. its ford 9" rear from bronco tho.

I though lower thre weight number is better for cold weather snd higher weight is better for abuse, heat,etc.[very hot outside,hauling and performance(race)] :dunno:

I already replaced rear axle bearings but there one problem before I'm able to installing driver side axle shaft back in rear axle. rear driver side axle guider have stuck outer race from old bearing. I can't find a slider hammer puller with hook for pull race out...even my work don't have special hook for bearing to borrow :doh: so is there any trick way to get it out? :dunno:

lol, I'm referring to this project go around. :nuts: I'm lost? you sold MJ again?

welcome! btw for slider, its been in measured for short bed(my mj is shortbed) so he might need a longbed MJ to measure for slider if need. :smart:

amsoil, royal purple, redline, castrol edge, etc. are great motor oils

just let you guys know that James just came stop by and measured the rear bumper and side slider. He told me that he will start make one soon and stuffs. Nice met you, james. hopefully everything going good so far when make one. also don't forget to ask fellow members like 500MJ that have plenty experiences with bumpers and slider. :thumbsup: edit: also forget add this, i told him to recommend him to measure the rear quarter to for slider attached to rear bumper just case if someone want add it like me so he did measure it. :thumbsup:

:rotf: :roll:

:agree: if hear grinding which possible worn out synchros from not allow it moving netural/gear to gear during shift. but rebuild is pretty good idea. after rebuild, this transmission can last to other 20 years with your mj! :brows:

just got out of shower from begin cover all over my body with rear gear oil waterlogged. :ack: done drill/tap the drain plug. no pictures yet. soon finish with rear axle :clapping:

:drool: :drool: now add d ring bracket and hitch point then thats perfect look :thumbsup: but sweet tho. i like it! :cheers:

i was thinkng same. I'll wait until someone answer for this one :wrench:

alright ill try some vette forums. thanks for help tho.

hmm doubt its battery because its fine now (don't need jump anymore just once)and its still new from last summer. even i checked the connections. its connected secure well. :dunno:

I just jumped and let my corvette running from hibrative through winter. when i was aout drive it around- no problem but noticed the cluster gauge digital screen was blinking said System. then i pressed the gauge info, its disappear but will come back on every one min or whatever how long is it. is that possible means PCM or ECU faulty? its 1995 chevy corvette C4 converiblite.

got my rear axle bearing replaced, drained rear axle gear oil, drill/tap on rear axle guide tube for breather tube, soon going drill/tap rear axle differential cover for drain plug so i can drain it without need remove the third member on rear axle(its ford 9"rear axle) :clapping: I'm speeding up finish my jeep!

Timken tapered bearings for rear axle mile marker wheel hub lockers for front front shocks battery drain rear axle gear oil then flush the gear oil from it waterlogged(work on it) drill/tap axle guide tube for breather nipple, now i have breather on rear axle :clapping: drill/tap on rear axle differential cover for drain plug. so i won't have to remove the third member out to drain the gear oil :nuts: (work on it) presents from UPS! time to do bearing press machine in my work during lunch break. did some modifcation on this machine and still won't able to replace my bearings :doh: so i sent it to place that do bearing press. four hours later(30 mins after done with my work) my bearings r done and only charged me 90 bucks :roll: at least i get my jeep done faster draining my rear axle gear oil by lift one side up and other side low to let gear oil flow to one side out plus let it clean the metal shave from drill for breather nipple. look how gross gear oil is from waterlogged. remind me of my front axle :no: no pictures of wheel hub lockers installed and shock yet but they installed like charm without any problem. now I'm working on drain plug on differential cover