beepbeepmyredjeep

This color I guess I'm not creative when it comes to desktops.

:thumbsup: x3 But this would make a sweet sticker. :clapping:

You might want to make sure that you're actually insured for a Comanche and not a Cherokee. I've had that happen to me before when applying for parking passes, etc. I tell them Comanche, they type in Cherokee. :doh:

Deleting? Like this? :typing: I wish I could work on my MJ just by typing.... :rotf:

Bummer! I live near I-70! ...too bad I'm at the other side of the country. :doh:

Sigh. Thats what I get for listening to the guy at the auto parts store. I specifically asked "Are there any other parts I need, or any special tools?". He told me no. :wall: I've removed the line several times and re-inserted, just in case it was cross-threaded. I'm pretty certain its not cross-threaded. I'm leaning towards this probably being the case. It's most likely the original line. At this point I think my best bet is to take it to the mechanic my father-in-law has work on all of his vehicles. He's got decent labor rates, and is honest. He'll be able to tell me if the CMC is defective, or if I need a new line. Thanks guys! :cheers:

I've seen a lot of talk about the Thunderchief here. What do you guys know about this little beauty?

So, I thought I had the new CMC working... But when I got to work the other day, I lost the clutch as I pulled in the parking lot. It appears to be leaking fluid out of the connector to the hydraulic line. Was there a gasket I was supposed to put in? The old CMC didn't have one, and the new one didn't come with one. I've got the hydraulic line on there as tight as I can, to the point that the connector started getting rounded off at the edges. Any thoughts what went wrong? My thoughts are: 1) Problem with the hydraulic line (Unlikely, as it wasn't leaking there before I replaced the CMC, the leak was inside the cab) 2) Missing a gasket (If it was missing the gasket, then the old one was as well) 3) Problem with the new CMC (I looked at the connector prior to install, and it looked identical to the old one) 4) Not getting the hydraulic line tight enough (I've got it so tight that any further pressure on the connector results in the connector starting to get rounded off) Just for my reference, what size wrench is the hydraulic line connector supposed to need? I believe I ended up using a 7/16" wrench, but I don't recall.

Just a thought, why restrict to just Comanche images? It would probably be pretty easy to create jewelry with the old AMC logo on them. They're just simple geometric shapes. There's a sample logo at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Motors Note: I'm not a lawyer, so I'm not familiar with all of the copyright/trademark laws involved with reproducing a logo of a company which no longer exists. You may want to consult a legal adviser first.

Nope, haven't priced anything yet. I'm not thinking just for creating standard replacement taillights though. You could theoretically create high-durability tail lights. Use a metal such as allumaloy to create a sort of wire mesh protector around the lenses. Sadly this is one of those projects that I just don't have time for, especially since I just bought a house in December, and I'm currently putting a large amount of work into it.

<3 Useless Web Filters @ Work. I have to deal with one too, and put in an access request every other week for a legitimate work-related site.

I know that the sources for tail lights for MJs seems to be getting smaller and more expensive...so I've been playing around with ideas in my head. Now granted, I don't have the funds right now to build this, so if someone else wants to take this idea and run with it, go for it... Instructables has a section on how to create your own vaccum former. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- ... make-your/ The idea is, create a mold for the inside and outside of two perfectly good MJ tail lights. Then use a clear plastic resin mixed with dye to create the new tail lights.

Hey guys, I stopped by the auto parts store today, and saw a MJ parked a couple stores down. It looks like it was in the process of being fixed up, and I haven't seen this MJ before, so I left a ComancheClub.com card under his windshield wiper. So if that was someone here and I just didn't recognize the MJ, hi! :rotf:

Stumbled on this site today. Definitely worth bookmarking. They've got a lot of XJ info which can easily be used with the MJ. http://jeep.zerok.ru/ Their MJ section appears empty...however, I noticed on the far right of the page this link... http://jeep.zerok.ru/files/MJ/Jeep_Cher ... -30pag.zip Holy Transfer Case Batman! That's a nice find!

100% agree. I salute you soldier!

So I just looked over the truck today after I replaced the clutch master cylinder. The rust is higher up on the body than I remembered. I might have to get creative with the paint job. I'm thinking maybe some flames or something? Thoughts?

Today I replaced the clutch master cylinder, bled the line, and took it for a test drive. :banana: The Crusader is back on the road as a daily driver!

Replaced the clutch master cylinder, bled the line, and took it for a test drive. :banana:

...you spray down your MJ, even if it's perfectly clean, because you don't want it to get jealous that you just washed your wife's JK next to it without giving it any attention. And yes, my wife was laughing at me the whole time, because she knew that's why I was spraying down the MJ.

Pete is 100% correct. I had to pop out the center caps for my 2WD MJ for the front wheels only, when I swapped in 16" ZJ rims. Which worked out, because one of the center caps was missing anyway. I'm actually in the process of creating new center caps. I've got the materials, but haven't done it yet. Expect a writeup in the DIY section, when I get around to it.

Bought a Clutch Master Cylinder. Going to try to install tomorrow.

Another concept pic with the new rims...

Here's a photoshopped "concept pic"

The local MAACO has a habit of accidentally(?) stripping the paint off an entire car and then repainting the whole thing, at their expense. I've seen this with two cars now. The paint job looks pretty decent, and I've only seen one instance of some paint runs, which they corrected at no charge. I've considered that, but there are several rust spots about the size of a half dollar which need grinded out, filled, and sanded. Perhaps I'm going about this the wrong way. Do you think I would be able to get paint to match the current color as close as possible, and get the paint to blend successfully with rubbing compound? Another suggestion I've received from a family member is grind out the rust spots, and since they're all on the lower part of the vehicle, then paint the entire lower part of the vehicle black. Then use rubbing compound and a buffer on the rest of the paint. I'm actually kind of leaning towards this, as it is less expensive, and I get to keep the original SporTruck decals. Might even remove the decals and use black paint in their place, as some of the decals are starting to come off, due to an incident my dad had with a pressure washer (10?) years ago. :doh:

Thanks for the heads up guys. I'll probably get a couple quotes from a few other auto body shops. Sadly, there aren't many, and most of them charge at least double what MAACO charges. I really wish I could do it myself, but I don't have a garage, and don't have the equipment.