Rubikahn

I’ll take one with AC. I will send in my core. Send me payment and shipping details please.

👍

Wow, thank you. I guess there were a few more shades of red than I thought. My 89 is in the registry. I looked up the paint code, HE8 and that’s the Dark Vivid Red.

Found this in one of the group posts on trim levels. Looks to me like only two reds were ever offered. The Colorado Red and Dark Cordovan Pearl.

Anyone know if there were different shades of maroon through out the production run? My 89 is faded pretty bad but it looks to me like a maroon/brown color to me. Maybe it looks that way cuz the paint is in such bad shape? Asking because I might be going to look at a parts truck soon. Owner stated it was red. I asked if was bright red and he replied, no it was more of a maroon. So I sent him a pic of my truck and he said, nope. He said his truck has more red in the color. Could have been resprayed at some point obviously. I was just curious if there were in fact different shades?

Ok, thank you. Do you remember how much lift you got from these? They look just like the 1700 leafs General Spring sells on their site with out military wrap.

That’s one way to look at it 🤣

Just got off the phone with General Spring. The GSC-571 springs with the military wrap are on back order. Estimated wait time is approximately six months. 🤦‍♂️

Gotcha, thank you for the info on both of those. However, I’m looking to have the rear lifted 3”. Will the GS leafs with the military wrap give me that amount of lift?

Looking to purchase some HellsCreek rear lift leafs for my 89 LWB that I’m keeping SUA and I’ve seen posts stating the owner is a member here. Does anyone know his username? I have a few questions before I order. TIA.

😢

So here’s the worst cap which I posted pics of in the initial post. I tried Pete’s suggestion to use tooth paste and a tooth brush to clean it up. It definitely works. I might’ve gotten a little too aggressive with the tooth brush when I was cleaning. Areas that weren’t bad to begin with cleaned up nice and did not leave any scratches. Areas that were really bad are almost completely clean but left small scratches most likely because I should’ve scrubbed lighter for a longer period of time. I ran the cap under the faucet. Then rubbed the paste directly on the cap. Then I used the tooth brush to scrub. I did wash it off multiple times just to get a look at what else needed to be cleaned. Still need some more elbow grease but looking much better than what I started with.

Ty, I’ll give that a shot. I tried a toothbrush and some dish soap which got the grime off them. It didn’t touch the corrosion though.

Sounds like a plan for the black rings.

Lol, that was something I asked in the post. Video I watched made it look so easy. Just hesitant to sacrifice one to find out 🤣

Yeah, I couldn’t find anything online. Only thing that kept coming up was refinishing the wheels.

For anyone that’s had to restore these caps. How were you able to clean the chrome without damaging it? I watched a video online where a guy lightly scrubbed chrome motorcycle plastic trim pieces with an SOS pad. Is there anyone way to bring the black trim back? Maybe a cleaner or has anyone repainted them black. Did it last? This cap is the worst one, but they could all use some refreshing.

Ok, I’ll look to see if that comes off. I do need to adjust it since it’s off a little, but the real reason I need to find this thing is because I’m going to be doing a full cluster swap. There’s a post in the forum about someone who was doing a cluster swap and didn’t know/ forgot to unclip this cable and snapped it.

Anyone have a pic of this clip? I looked under the column while shifting and didn’t see anything moving. My lower dash is off so I took a pic of what I’m looking at.

Updating this thread. Looks like both radios I had were bad. Got a new to me one from 88mjsally and I’m back in business. Thanks bud! IMG_4619.MOV

Just replaced my bump stops, and wanted to update this thread. I ended up using a pipe wrench to get the old ones off after I soaked the threaded bolts for a few days with some FreeAll. The one that was still whole came off in a minute or two. The rusted/destroyed one took me like ten minutes to get off. There are access holes to the spots where the bump stop cups screw into up inside the engine bay. On the drivers side I had to remove the air box. You’ll see a round tiny grommet just above where the cups would be. Pull it off and spray down inside there. On the passenger side, it’s more of a pita. It’s under the ignition coil. I purchased TJ style cups and extended stops. Since these newer style don’t have a threaded stud on the top of the cup I had to use a bolt. I used an M10X1.50 on each after I chased the threads clean. Added a little never seize too just in case I ever need to take them back off. I used a breaker bar to leverage the extended stops into the cups after I coated the top lip of each one in dish soap. They popped right in.

I’ll check out the local stores and see what’s there, ty

So any mid-80’s GM should work?

For anyone that’s replaced their column shifter knob what did you use? Mine needs to be replaced. It’s spinning and slides up on me. No I’d rather not glue it with epoxy. I found these two online. First LOOKS pretty cheaply made. Second one looks really nice but gets awful reviews because it IS cheaply made. Most of the reviews stated it broke trying to install on the column 🤣