Rubikahn

Count me in

I was leaning towards having them powder coated. Thanks guys

I recently scored a set of long bed rails for my Comanche. The clear coat has failed on the pieces so I’m looking to refinish them. Preferably in a satin black. Has anyone tackled this? What did you do for prep, and brand of paint? Any pics of finished product would be cool, TIA

They’re rubber, but I seem to remember reading somewhere they didn’t last.

Got a question for anyone who has the Rusty’s 4.5” leafs. Today I bought a set. I’m trying to separate them so I can blast them down and repaint. Just looked on Rusty’s site and it does mention their bushings are not OEM size. I can order those from them but I’ve heard they’re trash so I wanted to purchase them somewhere else. Anyone who has these have an opinion on sticking with Rusty’s bushings?

The only issue I had after going full cluster was the temp sensor/temp sender issue. My speedo needle is bouncing around but that was happening with the dummy cluster too. I’m pretty sure my cable is trashed. Pulled the clip on the frame rail to give me enough slack to get the old cluster out. As I pulled up the slack in the engine bay I noticed a large section of the hard plastic coating was gone and what looked like braid to me was exposed. I have a parts 89 that I’m going to pull the speedo cable off of to see if the one I have now is in fact defective. Only other issue I’m having is the cluster lights dim when I press the brake. That was happening before I added the ground jumper and it’s still happening. Did some searching online and found a thread about checking for bad connections on trailer wiring. This did have some hacked up trailer wiring spliced into the boom past the rear axle when I got it. I cut all the leads out but never opened up the loom did see what was done. I’ve been busy enough chasing down all kinds of other things, lol.

Have a 00.1 ohm reading on the new panel ground jumper

Got the issue squared away. It was a bad O2 sensor or a brand the truck doesn’t like, lol. Add the Crown O2 sensor to the list of brands that do not work. Crown sensor on the left. I took a pic of the part number of the new NTK O2 in case anyone needs one anytime soon. Ordered it about a week ago and it finally came in from O’Reilly’s. It is idling good after start up now and stays that way.

Will do

👍

I just added this ground jumper this past week. I used the stud that holds the E-brake assembly in place. Is this the correct spot? I can get a pic later for reference.

Thank you! I will give that a try

🤣

Yeah I saw that once I took a picture and enlarged it on my phone, lol

It is stamped. It’s pretty tiny and I need glasses 🤣

I did order one from the dealer late last week. I have it in hand but it does not say 195* on it anywhere. If the part number is referenced, will it state that it is a 195* thermostat? I asked the parts guy and he couldn’t tell me.

Had a bad O2 sensor on the truck. REM was throwing O2 code fault lean. I tried ordering OEM, and NTK sensors. Got an email stating my order was being canceled the next day by both places I tried. So I broke down and bought a Crown O2 sensor. Got home from work and swapped it in. The threads on the old one didn’t look bad so I didn’t chase them out. Screwed the new one in and I’m not sure if it’s seated all the way. It’s definitely tight and I didn’t want to crank it down anymore. I can still see threads sticking out. Started it up and look underneath. I didn’t see any smoke coming from that area but I’m not sure an exhaust leak at the O2 would be clearly visible? Shut the truck and went in to eat. Came back out about an hour later to go out and now it’s idling really weird at start up. It’ll idle really low almost to the point it’s gonna die. Then it’ll go normal. Then it’ll idle really low again, almost die, then go back to normal. After it does this twice it seems to idle and drive fine. If I shut the truck off it does the same thing all over again. The old O2 was not causing this issue. I did run 4oz of Seafoam through the brake booster vac line last night and poured another 12 oz into the gas tank. Let it sit for a half hour and then took it for rip on the highway for about 40 mins. All was good when I got home last night and when I used it today before I swapped the O2. I tried uploading the video of what it’s doing but the file is too large. Pics of new O2 and the one that came out. Also noticed the old one was ceramic but the new one was metal 🤷‍♂️

Got it squared away. Old temp sensor at the back of the block was for the dummy light. I looked around online and read that the aftermarket temp gauges have their own sender? Anyway swapped in the temp sender and it’s reading pretty much what the REM is. However I think I either have a faulty thermostat or the wrong one. Temps only get to the 160s according to the REM. From what I understand I should be around 210ish on the 4.0.

Has anyone tackled this and how did you get the clips to release from the bracket? I’d like to get them off without breaking/mangling them, TIA

So, I’m checking Ohm readings to verify the sensor or the gauge is operating properly? Where do I check that?

This morning on cold start up it did, but now that I’m driving it around it’s not.

I just swapped over my warning light cluster to a full cluster this afternoon. I haven’t checked voltage off the battery yet cuz I ran out of daylight. From what I’ve read it should read 13.6-14.2 volts. Does it look like it’s where it’s supposed to be? I swapped out the oil pressure sensor to the sending unit and that seems a little high? Read at idle it should read 20-25 psi. The temp gauge is pegged all the way. I know it’s lying cuz I have a REM unit. There was an aftermarket temp gauge wired up when I bought the truck and that read the same as the REM. No stock wiring was touched. Who ever installed it ran new wires including one through the firewall to a ring terminal that was on the temp sensor. I did not swap the sensor at the back of the block because I assumed since the aftermarket gauge worked it was the right one. I do have the correct one for a full cluster if I need to swap it in. Ignore the lit up right directional, lol. I have a short on the driver side marker light I’m chasing. Any help would be appreciated!

Ok, once I get it cleaned up and painted I’ll do a few tracings for you. Yes it’s a factory bar. Finally got around to cleaning it up.

The front gaskets are thinner. My front markers are not OEM sockets though. They’ve been replaced cuz the originals were all rusted. Pics for reference. Last one is rear stacked on top of front. I don’t mind sending you the one I have. Figured it’d be much easier to determine material and thickness with it in hand. If no one else steps up with a rear gasket then I could trace that and send it as well.

Damn, forgot to check that. I’ll check on it when I get a chance. Since you’re working with softer materials do you think there’s any interest in making these? These are the gaskets under the roll bar feet. Unfortunately I only have one front which I could send you for reference. Unless someone happens to have a set of front and back gaskets they could lend?