500 MJ

Let them total it and give you the money, then go buy it back for cheap ;)

Well, if it is plain Jane then I doubt that the kickpanel harness is even there, but yes, kickpanel lights are an option. I find it hard to beleive though that there are/were no interior lights at all in yours. I'm not calling ya a lier, its just one of those things that should've been included by the factory...

When mine are rotated up they are activated by the door/headlight switch. When they are in the center they cannot be turned on. When they are rotated down, they are truned on all the time (map lights)... Check the door switches for corrosion and connection...

So thats why when I tried putting mine in the connectors they didnt want to fit in there. So I opened up the connectors and jammed a bulb in each one. It works but there is nothing holding them to the dash. So there is a bracket that those lights go in?

Big tires for small tie rods and it doesnt look too well thought out as well like we have all said Big waste of money and someones time!!!!

I did this on my XJ right before I sold it. I got the three O-rings I needed from Carquest. I just took the deal in there and we found the ones that fit around each one. A total of $1.37 in all and my problems were solved!

Mine have been freezing up after I wash them, got any ideas? J/K, Yah I hear all of ya on this one. My latches do stick open and I am way up north so it can be a hassle. After I wash the truck I open the doors and shut them back so they only click once and don't completely shut. This way I can press the button to open it and bump it in if it won't come open because its not shut all the way. Thats how i get into mine but I still sometimes have the problem of not being able to shut the doors. Just like CW said though, it goes away once things warm up. Oh and one last thing, up here you can forget about locking your vehicle unless its keyless. Everyone's locks are froze so no one does... Gotta love going to college at the one with the nations fifth lowest crime rate, Michigan Tech.

To take a leaf pack apart I always use at least three big C-clamps. One on each outside end of the SMALLEST bottom leaf and one in the center of it all clamped on the pack vertically so you can use the clamps to let the compression off. This allows for YOU to be very much in control of the situation, just back each one off slowly and back them all off evenly. Otherwise those things will come off and could cause some serious injury if you are in their path... Take it slow and wear eye protection. It is also not a bad idea to loosely tie a beefy rope around the whole pack so that if all else fails and they fly apart the rope will contain them to some extent. You won't regret taking your time. To line them all back up clamp them all back down at even intervals and run a peice of bolt stock in the center pin hole to keep them aligned. New center pins are pretty cheap too if and arent a bad investment while you are in there playing with the packs.

Take Care over there, Thanks for what you do!

First off, Being from the north I know as well as you that the MJ you are looking into is a prime candidate for rust. The floor usually rusts out in MJ's and XJ's so thats where I would start. The drivers side is usually the worst side and it starts off rusting out right below the drivers feet, just poke it from below and listen for some crunching. The next thing that usually worries people is that mileage is an issue with a Jeep they are looking to buy. In the case of the 4.0L motor you shouldnt worry or second guess the motor if it is over 100,000 miles already. A friend of mine has an XJ that just turned 316,000 on the 4.0 and its still moving as it did in the past with a little lost power. The 4.0L is wicked perfect. I would assume that you either have a manual AX-15 or automatic AW4 bolted to it if it is a 4.0 and both trannies are decently solid. 231 T-case is common and it is great as well. I don't know much about 2.5L engines. Both my father and brother have one in their wranglers and they seem to chug along just fine but lack the power and low end torque of the 4.0L. As far as options for the Eliminator package I am not completely sure of either but I do not beleive it involved any performance parts...BUT I am not sure. Someone else will pick up where I left off but in my opinion if it is a solid truck with a 4.0L you can never go wrong... good luck

There is a spot (in my harness at least) that has is prewired for fog lights by the steering wheel underneath the dash insert. Less work for you on your part if you can make it work for ya.

I have access to a hydraulic press. That makes U-Joints SUPER easy.

Possibility? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3139

I am gonna say just what others said before in that there are lots of sought after parts on that truck and it wouldnt be a bad one to snag for future use. But, I would never put money into the truck to make it something. If you are gonna build one, make it worth your while. ;) Let him know about this site and all us comanche addicts so that when he decides to part it out we can get first dibs on parts for our trucks before the crusher or some XJ does.

I have their 4" spring packs in the rear of my MJ and I had to take out the bottom leaf because I had way over 4" of lift. I guess that over time they would have settled but now with only running the 4 leafs I can flex like crazy. Plus I still sit a little higher than I want in the rear. I also am running the shocks they offer on all four corners and have had no problems with them.

My junkyard 8.25 has a very very slightly tweaked drivers side shaft and I am ready to swap in a replacement shaft. Is there anything I need to know about how to do this that could make it go easier. I have never replaced an axle shaft before and don't have a chiltons book that includes 8.25 axles. I am very certain that mine is a 27 spline. Thanks, Brent

ehh... It happens. My butt hurts enough from going to college and paying those costs that I didn't even feel it when it happened.

I know the dealership has the ebrake cables. I bought all three this fall for $135. Sometimes you can find your seals for windows and weatherstripping in a bodyshop catalog. (I'm glad I'm good pals with the owner...) I usually just get them off of other later model windows in the yards.

Mine didn't settle enough. I had to take the bottom leaf out to get my advertised 4 inch lift.

Mine was sitting in a guys yard and I asked him how much he wanted for it. Never hurts to show interest, it usually is the nudge someone needs to finally sell things.

Ok, thanks guys, I know what they are just didnt know where to get them at... Merry Christmas

How do you tell what shims you need and where do you get them at?

Yah, its just a plain 4.0. Lately my MPG has been suffering though thanks to my leaking gas tank O-ring.

Leatherman Crunch from the G/F, New Camo from Mom and Dad, Magellan Explorist 400 GPS from my family as a whole and tools for my new truck tool box from me.

I was able to pull about 20-22 mpg with my AX-15, 31's and 3.55's on the highway.