Wounded_Fighter

any yet they are supposedly bringing it back.

I'll add o2 to my checklist, I need to update my cruiser checklist, ive done a bit. c101 is already gone.

Cold start this morning didn't suggest anything was going to go wrong to me, seemed like every other day. High start, regular idle about 5ish seconds later.

I've done the refresh on most if not all connections. I'll pull the throttle body off and try cleaning it out, any recommendations on it? my first thought is just break cleaner, but i'll search a bit too before hand. It ran fine the last time she drove, Saturday. I think to get home, I'll just shove something in between the idle limit to raise it so i don't have to risk having someone rear end me all the way home. So I can probably safely rule out something being thrown at 300ish rpm idle lol

So today on the way into work going over 472 just past I-4 I hit 65mph, let her idle a while like I normally do (foot off gas, clutch in) and It shut off?! She wouldn't roll back over either with the clutch in cruising, so I was lucky enough to roll straight into the next parking lot. wouldn't start normally. Had to give it a little bit of gas pedal to get it, she died almost immediately after starting. I rolled it over again and played with the gas pedal till she idled on her own. She Idle REALLY LOW, maybe 300rpm? started sounding like a rod knock or sticking. but only 1 rod. Tried hunting for it for about 5mins, couldn't locate it. Got back in, revved it a little bit, and it died when I let off. Started again, Knock is gone? Gave up on my search to make it into work (luckily on time still) I had to keep on the gas a red lights or she would shutoff with the low idle. (extremely hard for me had to keep 1 foot on the gas at almost all times, and switch my clutch foot between the brake/clutch pedals... Damn does she stop SHORT with my clutch foot!) Thoughts? I can't have this Jeep dying on me, It's my only way to work right now until my dodge gets her block machined. Please don't tell me this is an electrical issue as well.. I will gut all the damn electrical out, I'm getting tired of this. lol Things attempted so far, - Locating Phantom knocking? - Removing Spark wires (1 at a time) couldn't tell a difference between any of them.

Once I get mine, I will

The one with the blue 4 banger? Already following it.

Yeah it's probably just more electrical simple stuff, sue me I expect this to go beyond electrical issues since I know nothing about a/c systems. I have not the slightest clue where to begin with this one. What I've read so far is that the relay for it is the one closest to the cab near the batt, in my case, I'm assuming that's the 3 next to the starter relay, closest to the cab. Dunno how to test it because I have this one floating wire from my ac clutch. Wheres she go?

Am I reading it right? The fusible links are to be connected as pictured? The 3 "???" Ones.

Are we sure they don't belong on the starter relay?? I just stumbled into this page on electrical manual... page 8, which looks like they actually do go there....?

Okay, trying to avoid ripping the entire front end out to trace these wires... any insight would be useful. I followed them the short distance I can see into some convoluted tubing, followed the tubing through the front end to the other fender where it seems to only go into the fuse panel in the firewall. Most of the wiring is exposed at that point minus 2 red wires that go into relays on the driver fender. Into the fuse panel I don't see that many red wires....? Thoughts? The one red wire that went to the left, dead ended to a disconnected plug near the blower motor.

Thats an interesting fuse. They are, Apparently they all have fusible link imprinted on them too, each one has 2 wires leading off as well. So far I was wrong with 2 fan labels, top one is Horn! Super important :) (relocated to battery terminal for now) I feel the need for a labeling system lol

At the Battery.

Both apparently correct! In the end it turned out to be an "Arcing Short" on the ground terminal which may have been melting the innards of the starters. Replaced the Starter twice on this day (because regardless that the ground was "not correct" the starters were not extending properly.), the first brand new one was bad out of the box. I wouldn't leave the store anymore without them bench testing them... But I didn't get it fixed until I had a second set of eyes, one of my co-workers hovering over the car while I was playing with it, when he saw it "Spark" at the ground terminal when I turned the key. Tightened the DOGPISS out of it, waited 15 seconds, and IT STARTED! How long does it last this time....... Lets see. Tonight I will be tracing the "???" Wires pictured before.

Interesting, but looking on the diagram on the side of the part and in the electrical manual I don't think it really matter which side its on? "It looks like" the key turned to the start position runs power through I (or g) post and it goes straight through to the opposing post g (or i) and pushes that switch to throw power to the sol pin from the batt (and f pin??) down to the starter. That said. the Jeep has had those pins in those locations since I've owned it, 3? 4? months now. I took care in putting them in the "right spots" when I transferred them to the new part, used pictures for reference also.

So "Technically" speaking it should be on the Battery hot post. looks like it suppose to be just the battery on that post. Page 21.

Right now I'm looking at this.. and I do not believe the Alternator is suppose to go there???

Well I eliminated 2 right off the bat. the yellow and blue one, They went to the electric fan, thats running a thermostat as well, but its not always on anymore, found it killed my battery few months back so i spliced a switch into it and shoved it into the dash. why there is two for the one fan... beyond me as of right now..

Took the starter to Autozone, they bench tested it there, it Failed. (no shaft extension) Cool! Maybe I can swap that and be done. Rechecked all the contact points... Replaced the Ignition relay under the hood. (again) Replaced the starter (again) Replaced the battery, (again) Turn key, "Click, Click", Loss of power.... Still. I'm at a loss for words now... Why is this happening?? Same symptoms, going to bring the starter back to Autozone (again, again) and see if the BRAND NEW, Not Re-manufactured one Fails the bench test...

Yes, all the Big ground contacts were checked. I replaced that relay and she's "Clicking" again, Like the starter is trying but not extending, or is bound up. pulling the starter and taking it to "thezone" at lunch.

Was that engine oil on the ground off the front of the block?? Wheres that coming from??

That's the first thing I noticed on the napa part box. "Made in china". I plan to if that's the problem part again when I swap it in. Both will be warranty returns. Need me some 'Murica! In my AMC!

It died again..... Same symptoms as before. Got one from napa to test if it's that part... oddly enough it looks like the exact one I put in... Napa part number AR578 Gonna have to trace wires and start replacing stuff.... Maybe eliminate some of them from the relays battery post... LOL... not a clue what most of them go to.

That clearance between tank and driveshaft makes me uncomfortable... lol

This is where I'd start.