GreasemonkeySC

Nice setup. Very cool event! I'm working on an aluminum ladder style rack so I can keep my toolbox in the bed, still use the bed for cargo, and carry a pair of 10ft angler kayaks up top. If I'm smart enough it will be removable!

It does fit a little better. I'm not terribly concerned about it for right now. I'll eventually paint the plates to match. I'll fix the issue at that time.

There has been some $#!++y body work done on this truck. The OE light didn't fit much better!

Decided to put some new clear markers & turn housing on it. I also added rear side markers, and reverse lights to the Rusty's tail light inserts.

BTW: Here's what I found, and I'll let ya know how it turns out! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K5FJ53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ijAlBb4S87CH0

New 235\75r15 tires on TJ chrome wheels. PO had 215\60r15 on it. Made the speed read 7mph fast. I thought I was getting awesome gas milage at first, then realized the problem! [emoji16] Speedo fixed, and drives like a different truck. BTW: Goodyear Wranglers 235\75r15s are $70ea at Walmart right now.

Installed my new clear corner & turn light housings, painted the headlight surrounds black, and painted the grill black. Put some new led light housings up for interior lighting.

Scored 4 chrome TJ wheels with center caps for $100 tonight!

Night time pic of bed lights

RGB lights down the bed rails, and across the tool box. Connected to done lamp for now. And my new Comanche Club window decal!

Put the tail light panels in the drill press, and a little wiring later....... Side marker lights, and reverse lights.

If you want it simply because it says Jeep, or Comanche there are options for you! I use to do lots of custom interior, and body work. I have made more raised, and inset relief panels than I care to think of. If your interested in a spray in bed liner, and have the same relief panels across the front wall that's fairly simple. Raised relief is the simplest. Go on eBay, grab ya a 12x24in 3\16in thick piece of HDPE. I scribe my designs, then cut by hand, but the suggestion I make to first timers is to spend the money and buy the $20 decal for the tailgate. Put the decal on the HDPE, cut out the letters, use a sander to bevel the edges, spray adhesive, or 2 side tape to attach to the bed panel, then have the bed liner sprayed over top of it. Instant raised relief custom bed liner!

Ok, I'm game! How bad is this gonna hurt?

Finally done with my LED lights. New LED headlights, front marker bulbs, front park\turn bulbs, Rusty's tail light inserts & LEDs. I gotta do the interior lights, dash lights, and figure out a 3rd brake\cargo light.

I can't find a listing on that light any place. I'll go for an LED 3rd\cargo light, but I gotta find one I know will work before I cut on the body to mount it.

Oh yeah, I've made adjustments, but I'm far to impatient to wait on a power drill. I remove the gear cover, and manually roll the gears to the proper location. Little instant spot glue, and we're back in action.

I need to do this swap. The @$$ hat previous owner put a used gauge cluster in this truck. The actual milage is around 150k, but he didn't bother taking the time to correct the odometer reading to match the truck. It's shows 245k. [emoji849] Guess I need to start making a pull-a-part list!

I'm not one of those toys it in the bed kinda guys. I don't l like heavy stuff rolling around back there, and I don't like light stuff flying out! I purchased a pair of Aluminum T-tracks 48" long, a pack of #8 drill tip screws, a 10 pack of stainless 1\4" thread lifting eye nuts, and 10 stainless 1\4" bolts. I screwed the tracks to the side of the bed rail, insert the bolt in the track, and screw the eye nut down. This have me 4' of adjustment on both sides of the bed and lots of loops to tie off, or bungee to. I'll eventually add a rail on the tailgate, and the back of my toolbox. Total cost was around $50 POWERTEC 71067 Double-Cut Profile Universal T-Track with Predrilled Mounting Holes, 48" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSX88M9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7tpiBb4ZDTMGR Stainless Steel T316 Din582 Lifting Eye Nut - 1/4" (10pc Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XMQWDTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.BpiBbA83NBX9

I have all of my tools from my 99 suburban. I just threw the jack, and associated tools in the toolbox. Can't hurt to have a 2 ton jack with a much larger foot print.

Man that looks great! I'll likely get a cheap $115 eBay tonneau, and modify it. I just grabbed up a toolbox and mounted it today. Still want the tonneau, but it's gonna start at the box!

Was that for my issue, or in reply to "coolwind" ? My issue is fixed!

I got a buddy looking for the jack & handle. I hear ya on the lug wrench. I use these.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1JNZP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SnFgBb3J8S763 The telescoping handle comes in handy for using with the 36mm axle nut socket, and the nose is long enough to fit my snap on flip socket. I toss the cheap crap sockets it comes with.

Found a pic. Yes it's usually the inboard side that wears because the majority of stress & motion is on the inboard pad from the caliper piston. I've had to fix my TJ twice in 135k.

Update::: Brake issue is repaired. A friend ask if I had a pedal free play adjustment. While checking if there was an adjustment, I noticed there was no free play in the pedal. I found the brake switch causing the issue. The previous owner had apparently bent the bracket where the brake switch attached. It was depressing the pedal only a fraction of an inch. It was apparently enough to move fluid, and as the brake calipers heated the fluid expanded, causing the pressure to increase. I bent the bracket back to its proper position, and no more excess brake drag.

I saw those. I know they have a good product, but wow! $300