AZJeff

Those cannot be legal for headlights in the US. Hasn't anyone pulled you over for that on the road?

+1000 If the crankcase vent system is restricted, the best gaskets and seals in the world won''t hold back the blowby pressure, even on a really good engine.

This is good suggestion if the engine isn't too sludgy from past maintenance negligence. In fact, if the driving is very light for those couple hundred miles, you might even bump the ratio up to 2 quarts of ATF to 4 quarts of new oil. Then drain the oil hot, and change the filter as well.

What brand of oil pressure sender did you use? Back when I haunted the XJ forums, it was the general consensus that certain sensors should ALWAYS be Chrysler OEM brand for the best results. (This was particularly true of the CPS.) I don't know if the oil pressure sender is that finicky, but some non-OEM sensors don't play well with the instrument panel, and maybe this is your problem.

First thing you need to do is download a Factory SErvice Manual for your MJ. It will help IMMENSELY with all the niggling issues that can be found on a 30 year old car. Several guys on the forum here have links to those manuals. That manual will help you track down the wiper issue. If it was my car, the first thing I would do is inspect and change ALL the fluids, unless they look brand new. Such a change will also give you ideas what other issues may be lurking when you inspect the old fluid during removal. A tune up would not be a bad idea either. New plugs, cap, wires, rotor, along with a new air filter (unless it's new) would be a good start for your new acquisition. Good luck, and fire away with questions. For the rust, the best long term fix is to cut out the bad part and weld in a repair. Lots of guys have to do this on floor pans, so a bed repair should be very similar.

Idle oil pressure of 60psi is pretty much impossible without some sort of non-OEM oil pump. What sort of oil pressure gauge is giving you those readings? You can run the engine with the valve cover off for a short time. It will splash oil around a bit (and need a pressure wash after the test), but you can also then use a stethescope to search for the noise more carefully.

That cylinder shaped thing below the relay---what is connected to it? I am betting some hoses, but where do they go?

Those connectors don't look to be Jeep OEM, so I am thinking it's some add on device. Where do the lines lead?

I would check to make sure you have good adapter fittings first of all, as others have suggested. About the only other way you could have high pressure is either a blockage or too much refrigerant oil. This may be important because evacuation does nothing to get rid of old refrigerant oil, and if you reused any old parts, who knows how much oil may be in those parts from the past. You said "brand new components", so I assume this means new condenser and accumulator. Those are important to a conversion, since the old R12 oil tends to settle in those two components. If you replaced those, then the R12 oil (no matter how much) isn't in the equation there.

DOH.....I HATE when I jump the gun and don't check which FSM I consult for the pic. Yup, I posted the pic from the 2000 XJ manual. Your pic is correct. Sorry.

Here is the belt diagram for the 4.0 with AC.

Do you have the factory wiring diagrams for your MJ? If not, that is probably the FIRST thing you need to get, as it will help you determine what is add-on versus what is stock (and possibly "repaired"). I hate digging into vehicles where people who don't know how to do proper wiring have been messing around.

The lowest pulley is the crankshaft. The one directly above it is the water pump. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump "snout" that supports the shaft sticking out of the front of the pump. The weep hole allows leaking water to leave the pump and avoid instantaneous distruction of the shaft bearings. SIgns of weepage at that hole means it is new water pump time.

That makes sense. It's odd that the later injectors are fed higher nominal pressure than are the older ones, but an aftermarket regulator should give me the pressure I need without resorting to the old vacuum controlled regulator rail.

FSM says the spec. for the MJ pump is 31-39 psi.

So the earlier pump should work with the later injectors no problem. That's good to know. Now does anyone know if the guage sender in a stock MJ tank will work with the late-style XJ gauge? I ask because the late model XJ guage does NOT get it's signal directly from sender. On the late XJ, the sender provides a variable voltage to the ECM, which in turn provides the guage with it's signal. The XJ sender is expected to send 0.6V at "FULL" and up to 8.6V at "EMPTY". What range of voltage comes out of the MJ sender over it's range of sweep?

Sorry for the following novel, but I have to explain why I am asking the questions: The Previous Owner installed a 2001 XJ engine/trans (and instrument panel) into my MJ, and it of course it employs the late model OBD-II engine control system. This system requires a fuel pressure of about 49psi into the fuel rail, which an original MJ fuel pump will not deliver. To achieve this higher pressure, apparently the P.O. chose to use the late model combination fuel pump/pressure regulator/fuel sender from an XJ. SInce this assembly won't fit into a standard metal MJ tank, so he installed some unknown plastic Mopar tank from some OTHER vehicle, which is capable of taking the late XJ pump assy. This all sounds good, right? It runs great....just don't look under the vehicle at the fuel tank, because it's RUBBING on the DRIVESHAFT!! Worse yet, there is no way this tank can be moved over to make clearance to avoid this rubbing. The tank has GOT to go. So....I want to figure out how to use a more suitable fuel tank that will still allow some sort of fuel pump of higher pressure and the sender from the XJ type assembly. I am pretty sure that some others have done this, but I am looking for some advice of what is the best route to take here.

Thanks for the added info, guys

The column from a Cherokee of similar years will fit just fine, and most XJ's had floor shift, even as an automatic. When you scoop up the column, you can also get the console and the floor shift assembly at the same time. Cherokee buckets will also work, but you might need to do a bit of adapting to the floorpan. The only problem I see is that a seat that old might be in rough shape. Depending on your budget, a new seat intended for XJ's might be the best (most comfortable, best looking) choice.

Starters on 4.0 engines don't need shimming. When you had the new flex plate installed, I hope the installer inspected the attaching bolts for damage from the previous cracked flex plate, and he also used Loctite and a torque wrench when he installed the. You might take the dust cover off of the bell housing and do some visual inspection with a flashlight and a small mirror.

When I used to frequent the XJ forums, the general consensus at the time was that the only real reliable fuel pump for the XJ was the Chrysler OEM one. All the others (Airtex, Bosch, Carter, etc.) had a nasty habit of dyeing an early death. That consensus was also 4+ years ago. What does anyone have to say about fuel pumps for MJ's? Are any non-OEM ones worth their salt?

This should do the trick for you: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoD30AxlesSeals.htm

The 4.0 engine has a fuel pump ballast resistor that is mounted on the firewall just below the cowl. This resistor is designed to drop the voltage to the fuel pump, but ONLY does it when the key is in the "RUN" position. When the key is in the "START" position, power to the fuel pump is sent via a different path. It sounds like your fuel pump is only running when the key is in the "START" position, and that is a sign of a failed ballast resistor.

They worked OK on my XJ, but I will admit they need to be adjusted VERY carefully. Even then, I would not trust them to be the only thing holding the vehicle on a serious incline. That's what "Park" is for, or putting it in gear with the engine off. To be honest, even the conventional parking brake on the Bendix-type drum brakes isn't the greatest, as it tends to work better against forward rotation than it does backward movement.