eaglescout526

Wow, awesome! I’ve got plenty of time and am in no rush for one.

OMG I am dying! That is hilarious.

Off topic slightly but I decided to see what folks were selling in my state and came across an 84 J10 with a GMC steering wheel. Thought that was a bit funny with an obvious column swap.

Sounds good. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this issue of yours. Also fun little note. The book strongly recommends the ECU be the last thing to replace as they are reliable.

Yes I do. My dads fluke leads are really really long so that's my bad for thinking you had some that are of good length.

I don't think the TBI book is a PDF yet. It is a goal to get my books into a PDF. Ok here is the 86-90 2.5L* connector pin out: To adjust the TPS you leave the probes in the connector and loosen the screws on the sensor till you can move the sensor back and forth but not incredibly loose otherwise it will be hard to adjust the sensor. Once the screws are loose(again not all the way out just enough to move it with some effort), move the sensor back and forth until you achieve somewhere between 4.6V-4.7V. I have mine at 4.64V but yours may differ. *book shows our 2.5L as a 2.46L which is the total Litres of our engines but AMC rounded it up to save breath.

Yes, that will show you your output voltage with key one engine off at the sensor. Terminal 33 on the ECU should show the same output voltage. Ground testing the MAP for the ECU is done with probe in A and probe in terminal 17 of the ECU. You can also check the Ohms of the ground at the sensor and the battery to see how bad the resistance is. 5V is on C and use A for the ground. Then check terminal 16 on the ECU for the same 5V. For the TPS is that output or the 5V input?

Ok MAPs output should be around 4-5V. 4.1V is fine. I would leave the ground probe in the sensor and use the power probe on the ECU connector and see if there is a voltage drop between the sensor and ECU. You can also test the MAPs ground Ohms at terminals 2 and 17.

Also the TPS input should be 5.0V with the throttle wide open and engine off at B and C. Jeez its been a while since ive done the TPS. I had them backwards. A is the output on the TPS and that should be 4.6V-4.7V. My bad. Good thing I have this book.

Its not a good thing when the book says the input should be 5.0V (+or- 0.5V) Terminal 16 of the ECU should also show 5V for the MAP circuit.

Is the ECU back in the truck? 9V for output is really really high. OK had to get the TBI book C is the 5V circuit on the MAP, A is ground and B is output. MY bad. TPS is still the same as before.

A should be input and C is output. I have trouble back probing mine too from time to time, so its not just you getting that issue. TPS is not based on resistance. Also C is used to make adjustments for the TPS, usually between 4.6V-4.8V is the proper output for the TPS but I like to have it in the middle at 4.7V.

MAP sensor should be on the firewall. TPS is on the base of the throttle body. Every sensor should get ~5.0V with key on engine not running.

I don't know why but I find this image pleasing to look at. Really clean and well done.

Not sure. Original idea was for Little Red.

Yeah that's the Aries style one. I have been debating that one back and forth for a long long time.

Damn man. Still looking.

Like your boss's desktop back ground lol. All I can say is yalls inventory dwarfs AMC salvage, that's for damn sure.

I have both factory books on the TBI and 2.5L. So if you need help diagnosing the books tend to help shed some light.

Modern ECUs have a higher failure rate than the old ones and Renix really stood behind the whole test the ECU as a last diagnostic resort if it is suspected to be bad.

There’s a very special tool and Renix scanner that would test the ECU. I have the ECU tester but not the MS-1700 scanner. So if someone has both and can loan them then you can test it. You could also test it for power across the pins. But that’s all I got for testing that sort of thing. I’m sure an oscilloscope would help too.

Mopar still has plugs for our trucks. I used Bosch Platinum plugs once and never had an issue with them. I might have even seen an improvement in fuel economy from using them but that was about three years ago.

Oh hey I watched that this morn. Pretty neat, could've swore the XJ was more prominent in the EU prior to 93. Nonetheless he has a neat XJ Wagoneer.

As we all say, the build sheets are about 90% accurate with reused codes over the years. And as Pete will say, take it with a grain of salt.

Have you swapped the plugs and see if anything different happens? The key in buzzer seems to be a pain to get working again once you tear into the column.