eaglescout526

I gotta think on this one. Have you ever seen any of the ISA's move? Edit: there is an ISA adjustment procedure that has to be done when installing a new ISA. How far out is the bolt on the ISA plunger?

Emissions timer is a pak con connector with three terminals inside. The top one could be a speaker plug, but power antenna goes directly to the radio and is usually only a one prong plug with a grey wire. Not sure about the bottom.

Better start smoking some Hemi's.

So the car has been moved. It now resides at my grandparents house. Kinda excited for this project. Thank goodness the PO loved this car because there is all sorts of literature and restoration places that exist. Hell even one of the restoration shops is here locally and stocks a lot of 50-60's ford part and even has some remanufactured. So this will be a fun one.

Sounds good!

That's a better idea, shoot even if someone had a 90's GM injector you could use it.

I think cleaning the injector would be the first best route for all this.

Well it just boils down to which one is truly bad, the injector or the ECU. I am thinking the injector, it is cheaper of the two parts but what bothers me is it isn't Ωhmed out. But it could also be dirty. I think we have hit that fork in the road now where all the tests that can be done have been done and voltage has been repaired where voltage is needed.

Lol. Like I said, all it does is spark when I ground it out. But I didn't try the other orientation as that shouldn't matter.

Well I was more or less trying to see if there is a way to bench test the injector, but I could very well throw it in, don't like the rust I got on it but that's what I get for relying on the O-rings for a good seal. But its only surface rust.

Well, I tried testing the injector and got no where. Just a couple small electrical sparks, so I am not sure how the ECU does it but I didn't hear a click or pulse or anything from the injector. Maybe if fuel was around it or in the rail it might do something but that can't be confirmed.

It probably does work, I know theres snake oil out there but I'm not sure if injector cleaner is among the snake oil. I bet the sonic cleaning process could help with ungumming it. I think I will take the spare injector I have and see how exactly it pulses and see if we can get the same results.

Correct on the ECU, just would hate to see ya plop down $100 for an injector when the ECU isn't switching it like it is programmed to. Last I recall AMC used GM's fuel injector for the TBI 2.5L, but for spray rates, this is the first ive heard of it. If there are different part numbers for say the TBI V8 and the TBI I4 by GM, then that would indicate something as far as spray for the injector. But if the numbers are the same, then there probably isn't any significance in the spray patterns. But TBI tech lasted what? A decade before the first MPFI systems to come into play, so probably not much advancement in the TBI department. Well from a quick research I didn't see anything about GM TBI's and their spray patterns. Some goofball posted about testing his injector by "pulsing" it but of course he didn't say how he pulsed it. Another guy said he just had his give up the ghost to where it wouldn't fire anymore(like yours) and others say it could be gummed up and need a cleaning. But hey if you throw in a 90's 350ci TBI injector, I don't see anything changing as the ECU controls the injector pulses but it could have a wider spray pattern but most just show a conical pattern.

Damn does she want to start. Well we have no way of testing the ECU without the proper computer and the noid light seemed to go dim but I can't say much for it "pulsing".

It could be the injector at this point. I think the injector tries to spray but doesn't. Like looking at that timing light kinda showed that it barely sprayed a sneeze of fuel.

Battery probably deserves a good trickle charge.

I don't know how else to test the injector but is it trying to start better than before?

HELL YES!

Yep you can.

Yeah they look beefier than the OEM ones.

So probably the thick orange one. One of those pink wires is for the dome lamps and the other for the crago lamp. I can go look at the '87 electrical manual and see if they moved over to orange wire which they probably did. Wonder why they chose orange to go to pink for the FP.

Says pink with tracer. Unless yours is a late model '86 and the wiring was changed which is kinda what I'm thinking is going on here.

Yes, because we know there is straight batt voltage from the relay to C100. So lets see if it carries on.

What brand of sway bar links did you end up using?

Well theres a couple options for ya. Otherwise I don't have any other testing ideas.