eaglescout526

Mike mine concurs just in a different box. Better safe than sorry.

This was in the Comanche windshield decal box and I’m kinda torn on what to do with it. Most of my mind is set on the fridge but maybe you guys have a better idea.

I’ll concur with you when I get home. Hopefully there’s no difference. I might need those for my Marchals but the ones in this thread are Sears lamps.

I can do that if fiat doesn’t get to it before I do.

I think they are the same. I have one at home still so it might be bigger or it might not be.

Oh man. It’s been a minute. I contacted them earlier this year and since Covid they have been down people but I haven’t contacted them since March. He still has the copies.

I’d be doing it to every full 84-86 cluster that way folks can have the blue cluster as an option rather than the other two options. I might have a spare old tach I can do that too. I sent mine off to another CC member to do some digging on these to see if it was possible and haven’t heard back due to their busy schedule. @scaleless

I wonder if you can change out that resistor for a potentiometer so you can adjust it for a 4 or 6 cyl.

Exactly….I was and wasn’t shocked to see a special tool to find TDC. But like the OP said, everything is marked. But he may not need a real special tool, just a simple rod of the right diameter to fit into the holes of the crank shaft from what I read about the timing belt.

And you’re not going to find anything either. I recommend you get the AMC 2.1L dealer service book. Funny enough I never thought I’d have to pull mine out of my collection to reference. Now the crank sprocket does not have any marks what so ever. Now there’s a tool thanks to Renault being typical “clean euro design” style unlike the Americans with a main crank pulley with marks, you need a special tool to find top dead center.

Wow. I would’ve never ever thought to look in cooling.

I don’t seen anything in the catalog. Maybe it’s from a different GM vehicle.

Or he might be able to figure out how to make mopar performance Renix ECUs.

You gotta think, these early MPFI uses an injector that more or less squirts fuel into the chamber and doesn’t so much atomize it’s. If you look at the original injectors, it’s a single hole. Somewhere I remember someone broke it down or I read it to where the injector is a stream when pulsed.

Oh good. I’m not the only one who feels the same way when I’m revving it up to 3-4k.

Those are some incredible odds right there.

I feel the best way would be to yank out the ROM from the ECUs and get the code from them.

Keep it stock for now and get the engine running reliably. The 2.5Ls are just as stout as it’s inline 6 siblings. Head gasket failure is common on these engines after they have sat for so long without having the water cycled through every once in a while.

Yeah one of the few things the two engines share with each other.

Have you verified your vac connections? The heater is actuated by a vac operated valve. That hose has been known to deteriorate and not open the heater valve to get heat into the cab. It sounds like it’s working but not enough to get full use of the heater core.

Yeah they do.

Yeah it’s not great. My XJ suffers on power because of it. A lot of it is just vac solenoids and a little duraspark box. I only said to grab everything as a just in case type deal but you can do what Eagle said as he knows more than I do. I just know I’m yanking it out in favor of TBI in my XJ haha.

You’d have to pull everything as the old 2.5L carb also runs from an ECU that communicates with the duraspark. Do you need a new flex plate? I happen to have one. The flex plate could also be rusted to where the CPS can’t pick it up.

You know Pete would sell if it meant making an MJ whole and one less in the junkyard.

Yes you do lol. I was also notified that the mini pooper ones from the early 00’s might work as well. I haven’t dove that far into it as I don’t even have the sentry set up yet.