ghetdjc320

No need to worry about the outer trim piece. It’s really just decorative. The trick is keeping water from pooling in the lower corners where the body seams are. Just like the windshield frame, there are seams in all the corners and the factory single stage seam sealer tends to deteriorate. Then you have a slow weeping leak.

No worries

Keep in mind that there are body seams in all 4 corners of the windshield frame. I’ve come to suspect every single body seam on these trucks as a possible leak point.

Can’t see the pics

Haven’t started the batch yet so I’ll add you on. Going to be closing this round in a few days though.

Yep that’s right. The LH accommodates the gas filler closer to the wheel well for the long bed. Use two RH panels if you have a short bed

It would also be better if it was a reverse print so it clings to the inside of the glass. Would last a lot longer that way

Going to give this a few more days then tally up the batch. Thanks

I’ve taken off several now. Some come off very easily, otherwise you can soak them in water for a couple of days or you could heat it up a bit until the adhesive gives way

Perfect, thanks! Looks great.

Got it. I’m getting a spreadsheet together to keep total numbers and keep everyone updated on where we’re at with timing.

I managed to finally reproduce the OEM center cap emblem for the turbine wheels. Could also do the eliminator style wheels but would need the exact size (mm work best for measurements). I could also do custom designs down the road but don’t have the time to render those just yet. At the moment I’m getting some numbers on how many I should make in the next batch. These are made with a UV coating and 3m emblem/outdoor adhesive backing. Price is $14/ea or $50 for a set of 4 plus shipping (just a few bucks through usps to pretty much anywhere). at the moment I need to gauge interest and see what the total quantity would be so I can run a single batch. Lead times May be a few weeks depending on where your order falls within a batch. Here is what they look like. I’ll get some pictures of them on a turbine cap shortly PS. For those of you looking for switch trim covers and all the accompanying goodies, I’ll be producing those again staring around mid-June and custom options will be available again as well.

I have that nos sway bar at home and can measure it in a bit

I had a set on my last MJ. The length of the remote adjuster is too long and the holes were not tapped but they worked ok other than that. They were also missing the remote adjuster gasket

I wasn’t able to see the video. Says it’s been removed, any chance of getting that back?

IIRC there are only two sway bar sizes that came on the MJ/XJ. This is the larger of the two. I believe it’s 28mm

How soon do you need it? I have one but won’t have it available for a few weeks

Here is the easiest and cheapest sway bar upgrade I’ve found. It’s the larger factory option bar and is a bolt on (just need to use the larger bushings) https://teamcherokee.com/products/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001.html

That was Limeys build

I ran ZJ steering linkage. I had the iron man track bar setup which had a 1.5” drop on the frame side bracket so I also installed a 1.5” drop pitman arm. Also used the iron man steering box sector bearing and support. Ran a PSC non-ported steering box. The steering and handling was absolutely wonderful given the amount of lift.

Could you part with the two on the left? Shoot me a price when you can. Thanks

Just saying, I’d still like to see installed daytime pics of the lights from different angles…

A push button start is a very simple switch to install. But a modern push button start system will typically incorporate an rfid tag from the key fob for security. Similar to the “chip” keys that many manufacturers used in the 90’s and early 2000’s.

Very interesting. I have the tail piece as well with the two light