ghetdjc320

Of course it did lol. I forgot the 2.5 was in the YJ in those years.

Not sure if I ever posted this before or not. Had it for some time now. NOS bronze coin:

You’re talking about running your Renix MJ 4.0 in a 94 YJ correct? As far as the electronics are concerned you might as well swap to obd1 as the YJ never had Renix (they had a carbed 4.2 from 87-90. 91 switched to obd1/4.0HO.

I agree, keep it as-is. But to address some of your questions: Assuming you want to keep things all Jeep, The AX15 can handle quite a bit. Wouldn't be concerned at all until over maybe 400lbft of torque but it can be upgraded to handle a decent bit more. Th ax15 is basically a Toyota R150/151 transmission. Marlin Crawler offers bot only rebuilds of the AX15 but also two crucial power handling upgrades: first gear thrust bearing and rear bearing retainer plater. They have a few other items they offer as well but the actual ax15 gear set is plenty stout and able to handle a lot of torque. Also, use good fluid in it such as Redline MT90, Amsoil MTF or similar. NO GL5 oils though. The "strongest" rear axle is really subjective but if your wanting to stick with oem or at least the oem theme, go with either an original Dana 44 or an 8.25 from a later model XJ or KJ liberty. The liberty is a nice swap as it's wider than stock and actually fits the MJ remarkably well. Also has decent disk brakes. The KJ 8.25 has a ton of extra brackets that need to be removed. As for links and write-ups, browse through the members builds and also the epic build section and you'll come across a lot of different build to gather ideas from.

Cerakoat is good stuff! I’ve been using Migliore ceramic coating on NOS ones and had zero UV fading.

That’s possible, I’ve never had good results with sem color coat but I’ve heard great things about it. I’d personally try some polish and dremel though first. On NOS ones, I add a ceramic coat to the face.

It’s tough to get anything to stick but a bit of heat with a torch may help along with some back to black finish

The last of the last fog/cargo/tranny/sports bar switches. All NOS original batch

That’s just it, there is no separate lens on these cargo lamps. The entire lamp is a lens, just a clear plastic lens that is painted black in areas. It’s really not a good or durable design but it could be improved on. The housing is just too fragile. Perhaps it could be designed around an existing LED so the bulb holders and contacts would need to be remade.

Was wanting to upgrade the thrust bearing for first and the rear bearing plate. Haven’t disassembled one before. The unit I have has 90k miles on it and was shifting great but can’t say how long it will last behind the LS engine.

If you want to add a variable intermittent function, you need to send a "pulse" to the wiper motor low circuit. The motors' internal circuitry will then complete the rotation and land on park again. That pulse is on a variable resistance timer. Unless you're looking to just press a button and the wipers move once? If that's the case, the mist function works for that. The intermittent wiper switch in the column along with the accompanying lever and the intermittent module are required unless you want to design your own wiper delay module??? That's a ton of work Unless you're planning to splice in a pre-assembled wiper delay module to just send the pulse to the low side?? The factory version swap is very easy and quite cheap.

Looks like all 3 versions have model numbers on the box.

I have plenty of leftover oem gasket material if you’d like some.

Negative, all black. Was trying to find an all black nos one to match my electric window/lock bezels. I’ve eliminated most interior chrome but have a nice set of chrome door handles along with chrome 10 slot grill and tailgate handle to keep some chrome accents throughout.

NOS Turn signal/cruise/intermittent wiper lever.

Not sure which one you got there. However, if your going to return it, get the plate and fin design vs the tube and fin. Four seasons makes a nice plate and fin that fits with slight mods. Done a couple now that way and it works great

Haven’t seen an MJ with a bbc but you may find someone in the XJ forums who has

That link generalizes a lot of info and is missing a lot too. Here are a couple examples: The D30HP is an inherently superior design for a front axle and the better use of the gear set makes it stronger than the LP D30 (all non rubicon TJ’s and 99.5+ XJs). It’s also missing info on the JK D30’s which were also a stronger design. 2007 JK’s also had a D35 option and the modern D35 is the standard axle in JL and JT platforms. The D44 HD gearset was introduced long before the JK made the gearset popular or well known

I like the decked system that @Limeyjeeper installed. That's a really nice option

Around 61”. 63” width fits really nice in the back of an MJ with stock is similar backspacing

Agreed. DO we happen to know who the OEM was? Or was it made in-house at AMC/Jeep?

I think that's T&M that makes those inner frame plates. I have a set on my MJ and it would be very close to reaching the end of the damaged area. Here are the different metal pieces you could use to repair and reinforce. Keep in mind you will still need to find a good competent welder who can also cut out and repair some of the damaged metal underneath. You'll also need a replacement inner fender. I relaced mine and the pics are somewhere in my build thread if you want to reference them. https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=4761900 https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=2230916 https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=mjfus

I wheeled many years on D35’s 8.8’s and D44’s. Did a lot of axle building along the way also including several 8.8 builds. I also documented a lot of info on HD44’s. It took a while, but personally, I started to see where there was an advantage to less unsprung weight, keeping things at lower lift and running smaller tires. Taught me a lot more driving skill and taking my time to pick the right lines. I understand that’s not for everybody though I just wanted to share how one can run what they have and spend more time wheeling than wrenching. The D35 is often overlooked and the 8.8 is often over-stated. There are specific weakpoints on a D35 that can be simply and easily modified in just a few hours to run a respectable tire size and stand up to decent wheeling. It is a viable option and it does have its advantages. BTW, the HD44 as found in 98+ imports and JKs has the same ground clearance as the standard 44, no c clips, 8.9” ring gear, D60 pinion and fairly larger brakes. They are also wider, thicker wall tubes than the 8.8 and are actually decently plug welded by factory. Bolt pattern will be different but hey, if we’re going new tires, why not new wheels?? No matter what we swap under our trucks it’s going to cost. The KJ8.25 is a nice candidate also but will require plenty of sweat equity.

Same old stories on repeat . I’m getting too old for this .

I’ve always shipped using a freight forwarder in the US. Just buy whatever you’re needing and have it shipped to your freight forwarders address then they send it to you. From what I’ve seen here though, Rustys has some very mixed reviews to say the least.