ghetdjc320

I second the Chevy 6 bolt. Same pattern as Waggy. Lots of brake options as mentioned including Wilwood setups. Plenty of hub options as well.

So do you want a taller, lower or more angled seat? I like as much knee support as possible but find that typically comes from raising the front of the seat a bit to provide thigh support. But if you want to keep your leg straight without bending the knee you’ll need to sit lower and further back. Once you know what kind of ergonomics you need, the appropriate mod will reveal itself

It does . The medium sized “game board” box iirc. Flat rate boxes have been our friends here for many years now.

Here is what I could find. Not much but hopefully the other angles will help. I live the turbine wheels but which there were also some good quality caps to go along. All the ones I could find were in rough shape.

Didn’t notice the PM but I just saw this post. I’m not making any at the moment, took down the thread as well. I may again in the future but couldn’t say when

Here is a NOS turbine. I think I have a few other pics as well I’ll try to dig up.

Here you go:

Been down this road before myself. You’ll need a competent exhaust shop. No need for mandrel bends. Just have them run a 2.25 or 2.5 all the way and use all the oem hangers ancluding the one on the crossmember. Grab a stainless spun magnaflownuniversal cat with heat shield and whatever muffler you prefer. I hated the fuel smell running catless. It was exhausting . I’ve also had a few strokers. Always been a letdown for me too. The 4.0 is a good jeep engine that I’ve learned to appreciate mostly in its stock form.

Will do!

I ran Spandano rockers on my old MJ. Worked well and you couldn’t tell it wasn’t factory. The continuous stretch of 2x5 should work well if you can tie it into the cab factory supports nicely. As for being able to switch back, it’s really not that hard to do. I had to undo PO’s mods or damage that were far more invasive. Key parts should have cab corners soon if you ever decided to switch it back.

Getting close to picking up this project again. Planning to pull the engine again and adding notch flares and ares bedside armor. Anyone ever used the ares armor? Here is what I was looking at: http://aresfabrication.com/shop/mj-bed-armor/

Wow, that’s only 50 minutes away from my MJ… I see 97+ fenders and some leather XJ upholstery there also.

I never had any issues with turbines fitting rear disks. But I was using the Black Magic kit. He uses Centric calipers. If there is any fitment issues, the tinniest bit of flap disking will solve it. I stuffed 13.25 Mustang rotors and grand Cherokee twin piston calipers inside a turbine with a 1.25 spacer and some caliper bracket clearancing. The tiny little oem disks will be far easier to fit

Check for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure

Shoot us some under the hood pictures as identifying the block doesn’t always corelate with identifying the efi/chassis wiring. Also shoot over some pics of the splices you found

You can mix the leaves in the packs to even them out.

Why not just pull out your harness and start cleaning it up? I swapped in a painless 23 circuit harness but it took plenty of custom work. A wanted ad here in the classifieds will likely have good success also. There also those FB Comanche parts groups that will likely have some as well. What year, engine and tranny do you have?

I would suggest that you discard whatever throw out bearing comes with any clutch kit and get a high quality timken/national/Koyo unit. It’s just the Luk pressure plate and clutch disk that have been good for the price

Looks good! You should have a bit more spring rate and free arch. But thin leaves like that won’t make much difference in ride quality.

Luk rep-set has been a go to for some time now. Good price and quality

You can use a driveshaft yoke adapter or swap the yoke on the pinion. As for brakes, you’ll want to swap the prop valve to something like a ZJ or and adjustable valve like the Wilwood one. Rear disks need a bit more pressure than drums. A dual diaphragm booster is helpful and stick with a master cylinder with between an 7/8 to 1” bore. Are you planning to swap over the compressor for the lockers?

Keep in mind that the taper improves velocity. When Painless made their “perfect” 4.0 throttle body, they went with a tapered design that necked down to 63mm which is the manifold inlet size.

I’m running the Novak cable shifter on my current MJ. Works well

I’ve always heard it coming from the lifters in the middle 4.0 as they bleed out and settle after running. But every 4.0 I’ve ever had makes that sound