ghetdjc320

https://comancheclub.com/topic/31509-tail-light-restoration/

It should fit. The question will be if the pinion angle is correct for your truck. Are we talking spring under or over the axle?

Yep, you want to use the stock MJ leaf springs and weld on new perches to align it all up and get the right pinion angle. If your going spring over axle, you’d also want the longer soa spring perches to help prevent axle wrap.

There plenty of options available. Personally I prefer a full arm 4 link along with a good track bar setup (essentially 5 links). There is a huge difference in the quality of most kits. the radius arm setups are more common but they use a short arm that connects from the lower long arm to the upper axle arm mounts. These will be your cheapest setups. However, in more extreme articulation the pivot points will rotate the axle more than a true 4/3 link will with full length arms. Plus there is a strength concern here at least to me. One control arm joint failure at the vehicle side now affects the entire side of the axle. A true 3 link can have great amounts of articulation. To me the full length 4 link is the way to go if you want to do both on road and some heavy wheeling. That being said, most places are out a month or more on long arm kits. I would NEVER run a radius arm setup from the likes of rough country. There are plenty of other quality manufacturers out there that have nice kits for the MJ/XJ. Ironmanfab, TNT, and many others out there making good stuff. Short arms with drop brackets also work very well in the 4-6” lift area.

The BMB one is designed with a larger shank diameter than a standard bolt to minimize the slop that causes the wobbles between the bolt and the bushing. Basically the bolt shank diameter is a tighter fit to the bushing than you can get with a standard or even factory bolt. It’s a nice little setup, plus is strong and durable. Blaine designed that bolt setup along with the Johnny Joint washers which eliminates the cam bolt in the stock control arm brackets when running adjustable control arms.

A truetrac and stock aw4 are pretty gentle on any axle.

The underlying problem is the stock bolt diameter vs the thread size. It allows for the slightest amount of play between the track bar bushing and the bolt which eventually wallows out the hole over time. Fix the hole then run one of these: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Heavy-Duty-Flag-Nut-with-ARP-high-strength-SS-Bolt-HD-FLAG-NUT-SS-BOLT.htm

I like my D35. There are some advantages to such a light weight axle too. All depends on what the end goal is

Somewhere I posted a thread on installing the CR Laurence rear window in my 91. There are some tricks to it but it can come out super clean with effort.

I run a built D35. There are some advantages to running one also. I’ve been down the road of axle builds more times than I like to recall. Started with 8.8’s and built several. Then I went to 44’s and built a few of those also. A D44 is a nice axle to build if you have one already (especially an XJ/MJ original) and would like to run 35’s out of the box or 37’s with mods. However, consider this: The D35 is the right width, lightweight and offers the most clearance. The carrier bearings like a fair bit of preload but I have yet to have one break down that I’ve built. And I am by no means conservative when it comes to tapping the power of my built 4.0. Some of the key things to consider are tire diameter diameter AND width. I run metric 33’s which turn out around a 33.5x10.75. I run a truetrac, 27 spline 1541 shafts from Revolution, and a full ZJ disk kit. Pre 90 D35’s are even non-c-clip axles and have the same housing ends as a D44. Most have the same tube diameter and thickness as well. The thing to keep in mind is that running 33’s on a D35 is about the same clearance as running 35’s under an 8.8. And you can run 35’s on a D35 with a super 35 kit from Revolution (formerly Superior Axle). Others make copies of that kit also. 35’s on a super 35 is one very nice axle setup. Lots of clearance and a low unsprung weight. And y you could even run 4140 chromo axles in the non-c-clip axles. 1541 in the C-clip ones works great as well.

SMS headliners is still making new MJ headliners. Have one in my truck and they are great

So, I have exactly what your looking for. It’s a 92 police package XJ electric speedo in a full 91 HO cluster. No metric gauges and it’s a full cluster including rpm. Also has a new Mopar voltmeter. I’ve been considering a Holley efi gauge swap to go along with my stand alone setup. I’m not 100% that I’m going through with it but if I do it will be for sale. About 12xxxx miles on the odometer.

Good to hear. I might grab some also

Run 30wt motor oil in it. Seriously, works great.

Maybe a power sports battery would work. I’ve run some 380cca agm batteries in jet skis before. lithium batteries save a ton of weight also. XS makes some nice lithium power sports batteries

And they are all coming from Toledo. My NOS coin was also from Toledo.

This item is the sellers most expensive auction lol

I’d guess $380 or so. I’ve seen them go for $399 before though several years ago.

It’s an extensive swap as you will have to address your track bar mounting point as well as your sway bar link mounts. The stinky fan off-road kit has most of what you need but is pricey. If you do end up doing the WJ swap, I’ll take the old knuckles if you don’t want them. The parts list you have is good. You’ll also need a new drag link and tie rod, sway bark link mounts and track bar mount for the axle side to raise the track bar to be Parral el with the drag link. *If* your only looking for big brakes, then go with a Wilwood kit. Better brakes than the WJ swap and no major changes needed. Your knuckles have the big bolt on caliper lugs that work for big brake kits. Newer knuckles don’t have this. The WJ knuckles have a similar caliper mounting system.

I meant the track bar mount. It will need to be equal to the pitman arm drop ultimately

Good to know . However, I believe the OP never mentioned it was dying. Only that when it was shutoff it would not crank back up until it cooled down. It sounds like, up until that point it was running fine even though it was hot/at operating temp.

Good to know! How far does it drop it?

Interesting build! Looking forward to see how it goes

Only use the stock pitman arm unless you plan on relocating the track bar mount