Warren99

I did that and nothing changed

As in bypass the reservoir?

Ok so those wires are for my missing second horn. Also I think that would be why my other horn is very weak and choppy, it might need the second one to complete the circuit, either way I'll look into that later.

Just checked and only found two lines. The source one has plenty of vacuum and neither seem rotted. Nothing changes except the engine idle ofc when either are unplugged. There are two wires hanging, maybe they need to be connected I'll check that in a min, here's a pic of it all.

I think I've actually seen an unconnected line somewhere around there, could you be more specific?

Just as the title says, my AC is stuck on defrost. It's not charged with freon yet but don't want to try it again until I get it fixed. Blower motor works fine, the heater works too, not the best but what can you expect. No matter what setting I have it on, all of the air is directed to the defrost vents. I can't feel anything from the panel vents, if its bleeding thru them some, its so little you can't tell. Is this at all common? I have the jeep 1989 service manuals and found a diagram of confusing vacuum lines and doors/switches. Before I decided to take the dash apart I'm coming on here for opinions.

Ok thanks I'll leave updates here when I do it

Fuse panel doesn't seal good against the firewall. Is there a rubber gasket/seal that is missing or worn out on mine? Found out that other than the antenna hole, that is my main source of leaking in rain water. If there is a rubber thing, can I buy any new? Or just have to find one from a junkyard XJ?

Oh ok thanks for clarifying, ordering them rn.

My radiator is from a 96 cherokee. I think the sensor has a little connector thing wired to it, do I need to get that too? Years ago after I put the radiator and the fan in from that XJ, I noticed the wire hanging and the same connecter right there on the fan so I just left them connected. No clue if the fan even works or is wired to work in an 89 MJ. Regardless, just get the same style sensor some of yall have linked part numbers for in the chat, or should I get the wire? (shows both kind under 89 MJ on rock auto)

Alr thanks

While I'm here talking about sensors, what is this? I'd assume another oil sensor since its right on or above the oil pan. The connector is dangling there, the retaining clip is broken so it doesn't stay on. I'm just asking because I have no idea if its important at all. I might ziptie or duct tape it on eventually, unless it actually is important then I might get a new connector.

Alr thanks, I'll just get those.

I looked on their website and all I see are sensors for newer jeeps and other mopar brands, I can't find one for anything with a 4.0, or really anything from before 2000. And most of them are like $40, while the one on rock auto is $10. Are the ones from rock auto known to be crap or anything?

I'm not sure. At idle it slowly fluctuates between 1000 and 1250. And when I turn it off it goes down to what I'm assuming is just above 750. Pictures shown are idle followed by shut off.

Thanks for the help. And the tach just being off makes sense, I had the cover off and cleaned it up before I put it in, and I'm pretty sure I moved it, so I'll just put it back to zero.

So I was at the local gray and white looking for a new AC line and found one, but got stung by a wasp while trying to get it so I abandoned it. But I just so happened to FINALLY find a cable speedometer gauge cluster with actual gauges instead of idiot lights. Its my understanding that I need to get new sensors for the oil and coolant gauge, maybe the battery voltage too, and I can just order them new instead of trying to find some on a Cherokee. Are they at oreilys, rock auto? I haven't even looked yet but I don't know what they would technically be called. Also, not important but just curious, after I turn the truck off the tach just stays at 900 or 1000, whatever it was idling at. Even when I turn the power on, other gauges react but the tach doesn't shoot to 0. Is is messed up or just how it is? It seems like it works fine, but I've literally only driven it once with the new cluster. It does kind of seem like it might be a few hundred rpms high at some points, which is why I'm even mentioning any of this. Let me know anything it might be. -Thanks!

Cool, don't some of the 350s have electric start?

Recently it's changed and gone down to being most intense at 35, and basically gone by 45. It's also gotten warmer recently, so the whole oil thing is probably it.

Ok, I’ll look at it when I get a chance. I just hate taking my wheel off bc the only puller I have barely works and is finicky

The right turn signal clicks back in place when the wheel is aprx 90 degrees to the right. The left turn signal doesn’t return at all. I’m honestly having a hard time remembering if it ever did, but I do know that I swapped over a different internal piece so I could fit a 3 spoke wheel. Is this a common issue where some little tab or something broke, or should I just open up the steering column

I just got my truck on the road, and immediately I noticed that from 35-50 mph a quick ticking sound forms coming from the gauge cluster. It’s most intense at 45, and usually slows down and gets quieter around 30 and 55. Anyone have any idea what this is? The cable is from a YJ, the same one the trans and tc came from. I think I vaguely remember that it did the same thing when my truck had a ba10 and the original speedo cable. But I never took it past 35 since it hasn’t left my neighborhood until recently. I’m assuming it’s something with the gauge cluster. The actual speedometer needle bounces a lot so that’s maybe connected. Any input or help would be appreciated

Ohhh ok. That helps a lot thanks.

When the engine was shut off the resistor read about 1.2 ohms. But still all I did was wire bush off some light corrosion and now it’s fixed.

Will try this later today.