gambit4000s

1000 Pre-Orders required for production Thread on Pirate http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874961 Pre-Order form http://tohva.org/wp-content/uploads/201 ... r-Form.pdf Fear not, I am not affiliated with any part of this.

:doh: sorry I stick with the B chassis cars, only c chassis I've played with was a V8, atleast you don't have the UFO brakes..

The "e-locker" is a vacuum actuated sliding clutch, basically a spool. and IIRC is in your center diff with a torsen rear, but I might be wrong, check the control panel for three switch positions and two indicator lights, if only one light is present, its location corresponds with the diff. Is the car a 10V or 20V? Dependable has different meanings everywhere.

Doug doesn't believe in deleting his ads, this truck sold to a Naxja member(who also bought one of mine)

Replied on NAXJA :cheers:

Do it!

I just saw quite a few while pulling a non-disco axle today. If you need a couple, I'll be back down in ATL in a month or two. They are in Knoxville TN.

IIRC That might be factory gearing in a 4cylinder automatic

I am still working out the finer points of mine, I had reworked rear spring packs thet were swapped for the broken ones that came on the truck and I ended up @ about 7.5-8" in the rear. here's my expenses 75-used 6.5 rusty's coils 36 new ubolts from a trailer shop (2.75" for the 44, but I had already bought 2.5" for the 35, and they're for sale) 20 leaf perches 30 Brake hoses made locally @ a hydraulic shop that makes DOT Stainless 12 ZJ pitman arm free ZJ V8 steering (they missed it in my giant pile @ PAP) will need modification free full traction track bar (modified for additional height) 36 WJ control arms 40 new Moog joint for the track bar Optional 100 non disco D30 w/larger joints 200 used rubicon express Control arm drop brackets w/ full reinforcement bracket(reinforcment doesn't fit MJ as is but will with trimming) Not really optional... 300 Bilstein 5100 (will need modified mountiing points for the rear) 250 Dana 44 rear axle 50 beer 1000 :ack: 5x BFG MT KM2 35x12.50x15 I'm probably close to a "Kit" but I went with better shocks, non disco 30 and a D44 rear and that was 75% of my cost

There does not appear to be any advantage to upgrading the clutch M/C, if you have an internal style clutch slave, I would swap to an external style if it failed. A simple replacement and fluid change/bleed is about as far as you can/need to go.

Working with others is the most important thing you will ever learn. Complaining may work now, try complaining when you receive the same treatment from a thirty year employee at your next job, you will not like the results. Everyone you ever work for will be an a$$hole, it is their job. The ability to gain assistance from someone that wouldn't piss on you if you were on fire, will be very valuable in your future. You need a$$holes to like you. I cannot think of any line of honorable work that ends with hugging your co-workers, except strippers, but that might only be in my mind.

Come on down

I have a used set 15$ shipped

Question, did you clearance the axle side mount? check for contact on the top of the arm

If you trimmed the bushing insert flush with the bushing sleeve, you may be rubbing inside the frame brackets

I guess this answers the question about what to do with my damaged roof... :shake: Leaving it alone :yes:

If I were to build a rear sway setup, I would probably adapt a 3 piece setup from a TJ/YJ/Circle track car etc. Something with a range of torsion beams available. One could modify virtually any solid axle system to work, front axle springs would obviously yield the highest rate increase. Here is brief article (Yes this is a racing application, same theory, just ignore the driving in circles part, and left to right differences) http://www.circletrack.com/howto/ctrp_0511_install_nascar_style_sway_bar/index.html The Currie anti-rock stuff looks nice http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1020245&page=7 Install on a prerunner http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/Product.aspx?id=3150 Front XJ/MJ bar http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/antirock.aspx# Universals at bottom of page would be suitable for Rear application

Just throwing it out there. Ice and rain will make the effects more pronounced even at low speed, and the top heavy nature of even stock height trucks and suv's amplifies the weight transfer. I was thinking if I used a V8 thick bar, I would probably add a rear bar to reduce the understeer. I wonder if rear bar disconnects are being produced.

I saw a chart somewhere that went like this To Increase oversteer F Swaybar Dia - F Swaybar bushing durometer - R Swaybar Dia + R Swaybar bushing durometer + F Camber + R Camber - F Tire Pressure - R Tire Pressure + F Spring Rate - R Spring Rate + To Increase understeer F Swaybar Dia + F Swaybar bushing durometer + R Swaybar Dia - R Swaybar bushing durometer - F Camber - R Camber + F Tire Pressure + R Tire Pressure - F Spring Rate + R Spring Rate -

the best part was Miller(USA/Sabers goalie) talking to Lindy Ruff(Canada Asst Coach/Sabers Head Coach) just after the game, I kept thinking "Thanks for the allowing the goal, but I'll bench you if you let Sid do it on Tuesday"

CL is awesome, I picked up a rust free 2wd 4.0/5spd MJ yesterday for $200 head is off but I have another 4.0 :clapping:

In my best Cartman voice "Whateva! I do what I want!" Good point forgot about that

I've got one from LWB if you want it $20+shipping UPS shows $30 Wish I would have know Fri, my parents are in Orlando now and probably had room in the car

slave leak will drip from bellhousing and/or around slave body on external. Have you needed to add fluid to the resevior? Whats your level? Either way check your fuse panel/firewall

I had to do a bit of research to figure out what rosette holes were, but I think I found my answer. Frame stiffeners were one of the first items I had thought of producing for myself since my '88 MJ looks like it may be in the beginning stages of frame rot. I do have a question, though. Why would you use the rosette holes and fill each in with weld as opposed to doing a perimeter fillet weld? From personal experience I would prefer rosettes over perimeter fillet because A] with the holes in the right places is doesn't create a single shear plane B] contact with more surface area of the stock material to prevent movement within the strengthener(flexing differently, box within a box, as opposed to unifying the structure) C] both perimeter and rosette would probably be better than either but the A reason still bothers me(this is the recommended method for the HDOR rails) D] depending on extent of frame rot, it might be possible to skip thin areas without loosing too much strength (not a great concern of mine but I live in the south) HD Offroad Engineering (10Ga) XJ http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com/collections/frontpage/products/xj-frame-stiffeners Installed pic from SRMitchel on NAXJA T&T Customs XJ Installation instructions, at the end you can make out the weld, and they list XJ and MJ as being copyright, but no other mention of MJ anywhere http://02ea137.netsolstores.com/xjchassisstiffners.pdf