wannabeMJ

the clip look fine I took everything apart and actuated the bendix manualy everything move normaly and nothing is broken it was if the starter is not shutting off once the truck is started electricaly speaking the starter take the power from the battery but is activated trough the relay I will check the relay today and replace it with a new one

it does the same if I have the switch in my hand and manualy operate it so its not the position of the rod on the ignition switch

well i was testing the truck today and found out that the starter gets engage when I put the key to electric and it stays on once the truck is started any ideas on what can cause that :dunno: ignition switch is new wire to the starter is new because i don't wanna put a new starter and just burn it cause its doing the same thing edit: its for a cherokee 1990 4.0L

finaly getting time and money to do this ....... I need to shorten my D-shaft from this: lwb,_2.8,____ax5-ax4,______np207,____d35= 54.75" to: lwb,_4.0,____ax15-ba10/5,__np231,___d35= 50" and I have a 4.5" lift from what I read, it should be an inch longer then the 50" indicated above so shorten to 51" right??? the answer to that is 50.25'' had it done this monday fitted perfectly on now time to change the oil in the diff and the t-case putting winter tires on adjusting the track bar and that damn windshield and it will be about time for a road test hopefully the weather will be allowing me to work on the truck hopefully above the 0°C

Agreed. I think they changed the spline count in 93. I'm talking about earlier yokes. 86-92 According to the shop thats gonna cut my shaft, Jeep used 2 yokes. A standard angle and a high angle. The slip part of the yokes are the same. The difference between them is what I was saying about one (the high angle) having a deeper u-joint cradle allowing for more shaft angle. The high angle yoke was primarily used on CJ models due to their short wheel base and even shorter drive shafts. to answer your questions about the spline count they are the same dunno if the slip part of the yoke is bigger but it only seem to go in about a 1/4'' compare to the xj one dunno either about 2wd the comanche was already 4wd wight just be a difference between a 207 and a 231 I tought they were all the same ( 207, 231, 242, 231J ) there just might be a lot more that I don't know about t-cases then i tought final lenght of the d-shaft is 50'' 1/4 fits like a charm on further note : what would make a yoke able to allow more angle then an other ?? would it be the depth of the yoke itself ( the distance between the close part of the joint and the slip part)

after mesurement I have to go with 50'' +/- I was using the wrong yoke the original comanche instead of the cherokee's (chero drive train) so wasn't going in all the way so found the good one then I mesured real close to original lenght ( what it should be with the set-up) so ill call the guy first thing monday thx all for the answer

google this : jeep steering damper bracket i tought you were using one of those and not the original setting I never reuse the original setting reason: I always use beefier damper and then they don't fit edit: your damper should have come with some brackets when you ordered it?

maybe the boot is to long or....... the shock is to long !!! with all the parts you just changed I'm assuming its a steering damper do you reach full steering on each side without the damper reaching full run ?? it might be just a faulty adjusment as you might need to move the damper

look at your pic it goes the same way that's on there the big end goes on the shock with a zap-strap to hold it and the other end slips over the the tip of the extending rod ( there is a groove for it in the boot)

so from what I read here I should call the guy and get it done at 50'' 1/2 and not 51'' ??? :dunno: anyone running HC 4,5'' kit here ??

A lot of glass companies will come to your house; do you not have that option? they do but I need to heat the garage ...........its like -20 Celsius here right now also getting the d-shaft done today 160$ later will see

only 1 word: MOOG youl pay but you won't change no more

I should update now that I got time I'm a proud dad of a baby boy born on the 15th of Novembre so that's why no update in a long time now I got time and money to finish it rear drive shaft and windshield I was hopoing to get the windshield installed at home but to cold now for that ill have to get it towed over there ......... and the rear drive shaft will be done next week shorten and balanced the test drive should be in 2 weeks

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21725 I did it in my 86X there are stuff you need to check before you do it do you have a late 86 like mine is the firewall formed to receive the 4.0 (if not youll have to use a BFH) if you don't have the money to rebuild a 3.4 or to put a V8 this might be your route like me ( for me there was no 3.4 around my place)

finaly getting time and money to do this ....... I need to shorten my D-shaft from this: lwb,_2.8,____ax5-ax4,______np207,____d35= 54.75" to: lwb,_4.0,____ax15-ba10/5,__np231,___d35= 50" and I have a 4.5" lift from what I read, it should be an inch longer then the 50" indicated above so shorten to 51" right???

I need to shorten my D-shaft from this: lwb,_2.8,____ax5-ax4,______np207,____d35= 54.75" to: lwb,_4.0,____ax15-ba10/5,__np231,___d35= 50" and I have a 4.5" lift from what I read it should be an inch longer then the 50" indicated above so shorten to 51" right???

Ive check my steering fluid today and its a wierd color it was like chocolate milk most likely there is something wrong but what? air leak ?? any ideas........

I had ordered my YJ brake lines for the front but the guy at the shop never ordered them so instead of getting them today I will get them tuesday with those all brake lines will be new the booster and master was replace today found them at the JY for 25$ a piece and also while there my girlfriend said to me .......... why didn't you take them off the comanche over there ???? what there is a comanche here?? to my surprise they just got a 2.5L LWB white with beige interior I was so hoping to see a dana44 or an AMC 20 under but no luck but a nice find for replacement......

good job on the comanche keep going and youll have a running machine in great condition

the point is just don't say it won't fit automaticly its for him to verify his engine bay because for me finding a 3.4 was way harder than puting a 4.0

The 4.0L will not fit into the '86 Comanches without making firewall modifications. When they swapped from the 2.8L to the 4.0L, the whole engine bay was redesigned to fit the longer 4.0L. not true. just did it in mine and no mod to the firewall a lot to the front of the engine bay but not the firewall It all matters how much cash you want to throw at this for the engine swap. The 3.4L is a nice swap if you want to retain all your stock components. I decided to go a bit larger on mine and am in the middle of swapping in a Chevy 350. You will need to get motor mounts, and I chose to get an adapter to use a Jeep AX15 and NP231 as the Chevy 5 speed manuals will require a great deal of fabrication to get them to fit (the Chevy trans is no where near as long as the AX5 that you have in there right now). I got a cherokee for 400$ and just swaped everything .......you jus need to know where your going with it

TY thats what I wanted to know

can I do it to he master cylinder to?

Am I gonna damage the prop valve if I heat it to remove the old lines from it?

fairly easy most of the bolts are in the engine bay on the fire wall your gonna have to work under the dash to get it out but its easyer to do it if you loosen the dash or just take it out but first you said no heat but do you have air comming out (is the blower working?)