ParadiseMJ

I have 2 rigs 90 XJ AW4/231J (no sye) @3.5 lift with aftermarket LCA's. The LCA's are 1" longer than stock. The front shaft at rest is 32.5" from axle yoke to t/c yoke. There is 2.5" of the skinny part of the shaft exposed, not all shiny part...just skinny part. 88 MJ AW4/231J (no sye). SUA BB lift 2". Stock control arms. Right now I have the old front shaft and the "new" shaft off the truck. Fully extended 34.5" from eye to eye of the very front and aft u-joint. The distance from the t/c yoke to the axle yoke (on the truck at rest) is 32.5". The new shaft is 30.5 compressed. The old shaft is 27.5" compressed. Disclaimer: I just did this in the gravel in my driveway with my swimsuit and flip flops on after a couple beers, so measurments are ~~~close, but not caliper accurate.

I just swapped in an AW4 for my manual. The combo of the 1992 AW4/231J is 2.25" longer than the 1988 BA-10/231AMC. Both transfer cases are the same exact length. I kept the shaft attached from the 1992 231J when I gleaned it from an XJ the yard, mostly because I was tired, fed-up and just too danged lazy to pull the four bolts from the t-case. Now the set up is perfect for the front. The collapsed length of the front shaft is 2.25" longer then the old set-up. The expanded length seems longer than 2.25" longer than the old expanded shaft. What you need is a shaft from an XJ/MJ with the same tranny you are putting in. You should always measure yoke eye to yoke eye. Other than the obvious, I need a rear shaft that is 2.25" shorter than the original rear shaft...the MJ's from this yard are almost non existent, the only MJ's I've found are LWB's (mine is a SWB). The local drive-line shop wants $250 to shorten the shaft, weld on a new yoke, balance it and do the 2 u-joints. Seems a little steep.

Don't they charge extra for those?

So, post the photos on craigslist, they'll resize them for you...then post the post.

Sounds good. Change spelling of "reguarded" to regarded. Add a picture of your nice shiny clean AX-15...if it's not cleaned up I (and others) will just see a dirty old hunk of metal, and potential problems. If there is NO picture, I (and others) may just pass on it in thier search. IMHO If you know it's been an auto before and it has the correct plugs for the TCU, NSS and 7-pin connectors, all you need is a TCU form the JY and you're good. Look for an AW4 90.5 - 95. ...and read this: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

I am right there with you, same swap...I have the tranny in, my donor is the same, my MJ is an 88 and I have the 88 info. I posted here but was disappointed in the response. I'll share with you what I've done, I'd like to hear your solutions. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36383 http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1085202

Have you looked in to ACOS? Screw down to go up, screw up to go down. About $250-275 a pair. Solid...won't pop, leak or wear out.

Well from the pics all I can see is that the backup lights are not plugged in on the tranny. The 2 "studs" sticking out of the the trans are the back up light terminals. The plug for the terminals is a round thing with two holes (for the studs). It plugs in upstairs to a 4 prong female plug. You may not even have the plug as I don't see it there. Are your back up lights working?

OK, I've read "Everything you ever wanted to know about the AW4" by Kastien. I have yet to find my problem with the swap. I have an 88 MJ that used to be a 5 speed (Peugot), the "new" 92 AW4 is in and bolted up. I'm going to the yard in the morning. The MJ does not have the same NSS wiring...4 wires instead of 6. It does not have the 7 pin connector to the TCU. There is no automatic tranny wiring in the whole Jeep. Can anyone tell me exactly what I have to get to make this plug in. I have: ALL the mechanical eqipment including brackets and a Renix throttle body. I have a Renix flexplate, Renix CPS. I have an HO TCU (if I need a Renix TCU someone tell me). I need: A harness with the plugs for the 7 pin AND the NSS that will plug into the ECU (do I need a Renix ECU too?). The Automatic brake pedal and associated wiring. I have 2 almost intact donors...one is a 92, 4.0 yada yada. the other an 89, 4.0 etc. Can anyone give me a shopping list for the yard. I gotta be there at 8 am because it's supposed to be 103 here tomorrow and I can't even THINK after it hits 90

A tick, tick, tick from "down under" is way different than a tick from up top. One (top) is relatively normal for a Jeep...the other "down", not good. Slack up the belt, or remove it, and turn each pulley. They should move easily with no binding or grinding. If you find component pulley that doesn't turn, replace.

Does a 2 wheel drive even have a track bar?? I think not.

The chevy springs that I TRIED to use had an offset center hole. I tried to drill a different hole...no go with my equipment. I called several machine shops who said they were not set up to drill through a 3/8" thick spring. The only option was a diamond tip bit...nobody had one. I gave up and just used a S-10 main with the eyes cut off. Why was it easier to CUT the spring than DRILL it... :dunno:

You should be able to have enough slack, or you can crawl under the Jeep and push or pull the cable as necessary.

You can really put the overflow bottle just about anywhere. You can put it where the pressure bottle is now, remove the bracket, screw it to the firewall. All you need is more hose. It's actually better than where mine is in that picture..

I converted for about $225. New rad= 145 Hoses=50 heater valve=25 Generic overflow = 8 Everything else is already there

Old radiator. You need to ask for a 92 radiator. It may or may not have the bung for the temp switch that controls the e-fan. Heater valve 91-96 ...97+ just ran the hoses from the t-stat thru the core and back. The way it goes in. Air Bleeder...ad lib. A 16 lb. cap with no lever...and below, the generic overflow bottle.

Mine was a kind of bdbdbdbdbdbbd sound. Half way between chug and click. Mine disappeared at 45 mph. My speedo cable was pulled too tight when I pulled the cluster. It wasn't engaging in the back of the cluster. I got under the Jeep and gave the cable some slack, re-installed it in the TC and pushed it further into the back of the cluster...until it "clicked". That did it. :wrench:

Thanks. I need all the help I can get. The TCU and harness info is the most important though. Although i'd rather not jump the NSS, I may just do it, just to get it rolling so I can work out the other bugs.

Well I think this is either a OBVIOUS question or a stupid one. Not getting any play on other forums. I removed the BA/10 from my 1988 MJ. I've installed an AW4 (1992) in the MJ, including the 23 spline 231J TC. Everything is bolted up, fits, TC & front shaft installed. Since the 1992 AW4 and the 1988 BA/10 have different control systems, these are my problems. 1. The BA/10 only has a back-up light switch, no NSS and the 4 prong flat connector. The AW4 has an NSS...and the 6 prong square connector. There is no such plug on the 1988 MJ. 2. The electronic controls for the AW4 has a 7 prong connector...squarish too. The harness of the MJ has no such connector. 3. I took the TCU from a 93/94 XJ...there is no wiring for the TCU either. Unless it's really stashed well under the heater box. Do I need a RENIX TCU or an HO TCU I'm in a quandry as to how to connect/what I have to get from donor vehicles. If the tranny is a 92 do I need the harness et al. from a 92 or from a RENIX. Do I get the WHOLE harness? If I get the harness from an 88, with an automatic, and plug it in can I just unplug and plug at the C-101 connector?

It was the only moving piston I could find.

I prefer rubber all around EXCEPT sway bar bushings and track bar bushings. Rubber is more flexible, theoretically less vibration transferred from road to person. Poly is easier to install, usually, and will hold tighter without too much movement/flex. :wrench:

Is an 8.8 always disc brakes? I'm interested...ooops, mini-hijack, sorry.

You need an equalizer bracket and adjuster. There should already be one under the Jeep. The two e-brake cables come together there and adjust there. The cable in to the cab comes in thru a big fat grommet/plug at the rear center of the cab. So, what you need is a cable of the right length (maybe even from an XJ) to run from the equalizer/adjuster to the e-brake lever. Obviously you'll need the lever, handle & bracket. Route the cables from the brakes to the bracket and pop them in to the equalizer, then hook the single cable into the cab. Adjust length as necessary. You have about 4-6" of adjustment. See what works. Doesn't matter what axle you have, just that the cables are appropriate length. Hit the junk yard and look how an XJ is put together. Grab all the appropriate parts. Really a pretty straight forward mod. Should cost you less than $20 for everything you need. You'll also need one of these:

You're very photgenic. Is there a picture of you WITH your Jeep??

It would be an easy swap, but the MJ bench seats suck. First of all almost all you would find are old and butt sprung. Unless you could put in a bench from another vehicle, like an S-10 e.g. My brother in law has an older XJ with a bench seat and a mini console...me no like, but it's hard to make out on buckets.