EUREKA

I grew up on riding on Mexican saddle blankets.

I'm not sure how to rotate the images. They look correct on my phone, desktop, paint 3D, photo editor, and imagur. I plan to do the Throttle body to MAP hose upgrade (tip 31), C101 connector elimination, and Sensor ground upgrade (tip #6) very soon. I have all the parts ready to go. The 4 hole injector upgrade and Big 7 made noticeable differences, as did the TPS adjustment. They were nothing compared to the difference of the ECU upgrade! That one has made a tremendous difference. In fact, before the ECU upgrade I was not convinced I would ever be happy with a renix jeep. My goals for the future: Headlight harness installation Trans plug connector refreshing (tip 10) (did the one under the dash) Improving blower motor performance (tip 28) Improving the instrument panel ground (tip 18) Full gauge cluster Renix Distributor indexing (tip 13) 97+ wiper arms Wiper bushings Replace antenna with more rugged one Service differentials Oil Filler cap Mod (tip 26) Get fog lights working (I don't understand why they are there but not wired) Add cargo light Rear defrost New windshield Paint job Line-x bed (I have used herculiner and it's not for me) Lumber rack Maybe a modest lift Fabricate protection / address departure angle

Purchased in 2018. Has been my daily driver for about 3 years after selling my ZJ. This has been my first Renix after owning 3 ZJ's and 3 XJ's and a WJ. I no longer drive off-road as a hobby but I still use 4WD to access work/fishing locations. Only a few days after returning from a long trip to purchase my 91 MJ, this 1988 MJ came up on my local Craigslist for sale. I had to go take a look. Ended up trading my 84 Yota straight over for the 88 MJ. Here is what I've done to her so far; - Throttle body and IAC cleaning (I always do it right away when I buy a new 4.0 jeep) - New Renix vacuum harnesses (Cruiser's tip #22) - Replaced and set TPS (Cruiser's tip #8) - MAP sensor - O2 sensor - Cap/rotor - Plugs and wires (8mm) - 89 ECU upgrade / ECU connector refreshing (Cruiser's tip #9) - Big 7 wire upgrade (Jeep Cables) / Ground refreshing (Cruiser's tip #1) - Improved fuel pump ground (Cruiser's tip #29) - Remanufactured 4 Port Fuel Injectors (k suspension) - Fuel PSI regulator - Replaced Headlight Switch - Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing (tip #3) - LED headlight upgrade - LED turn signal/parking/marker lights - LED B-pillar/added under dash courtesy/gauge - Added Sentinel Headlamp feature (Cruiser's tip #30) - Ignition switch (out of necessity) - Power Steering pump (out of necessity) - Shocks and steering dampener (KYB Gas Adjust) - Tie-rod ends/Draglink - Control arm bushings - Ball joints - Brake stuff (of course but no significant upgrades yet) - Had trans serviced by transmission shop - Converted to open cooling system (Cruiser's tips #33&34) (after blowing a hose in the middle of nowhere) - Luckily it blew near the end of the hose and I was able to cut it short and use it to get home) - Had the stereo shop install b-pillar/door speakers/deck - Had factory bench seat reupholstered (bench was better for my dog, unfortunately he passed away from old age) - Side and rear window tint (front has crack and can't be tinted) - Repaired loose steering column (had a shop do it because I was busy with work) - Cat back exhaust (Shop) - Replace broken exhaust bolts, 4 freeze plugs, Manifold gasket (Shop)

Yep, I'm 15 min. South of Arcata. Be sure to check out fern canyon when you visit. There are a lot of guys who know these systems very well here so come back if you get stuck.

I suspected you guys might say that. Thank you.

It is possible that you may have more than one issue. That orange wire being disconnected should not prevent cranking from what i understand. I would begin my measuring voltage at the battery terminals. Then observe voltage while attempting to start, to make sure there is not a big voltage drop. Next look for battery voltage between the negative battery terminal and the terminal on the starter relay labeled "fuel pump ballast resistor terminal" while cranking. It will only have battery voltage while cranking. The Haynes manual isn't too bad for wiring diagrams. I'm sure the guys here have something better in digital format. The next step might be testing the fusable links This thread has a good procedure for checking all of the fusible links that come off of the starter relay. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/1989-xj-won't-stay-running-unless-fuel-pump-relay-jumped-227111/index3/

I was cleaning the contacts of my coil as part of preventive maintenance and noticed it appears to be original. In terms of reliability, would it be best to replace the coil with a new one, or stick with 'ol trusty?

This is on your 89 MJ Right? There are not many spare wires. I'm somewhat new to Renix but it looks like the starter relay provides power to the fuel pump (while cranking). If the orange wire that goes on the fuel pump ballast resistor terminal is not in place, you should have cranking but no start, since the fuel pump will not run. Find and install that orange wire. It does not appear to be a fusible link so it can't have disappeared. The ignition switch / lock cylinder is obviously a critical part of the starting system. If it is known to be faulty then it can't hurt to replace it, but it is normally better to develop an understanding of the electrical system and troubleshoot rather than throwing parts at a problem. Btw, any time you have a no start condition, it is helpful to say whether you have no cranking, or cracking but no start.

That's a great idea! Unfortunately we lost our only yard to a fire. Nearest one is a 3.5 hour drive, and it's a twisty one at at that.

Oh, I'm sorry to hear that! I've read a lot of his posts over the years.

Resurrected. Sorry to people who don't like thread necromancy. Did you ever get that LED figured out?

Ahh that makes sense.

Any write-ups on making one?

Did full gauge clusters for column shift renix era MJs exist? This post seemed to indicate that they did not, just want to verify that.

Thank you. I will buy a renix full cluster. I just thought that since I already had the red faced/electric speedo cluster laying around, maybe I could take the gauges out of it (minus the speedo) and use them to replace the idiot lights in my renix cluster, while leaving my existing speedo in the cluster. I appreciate the help. Thanks guys!

Ok, and the easy plug and play swap would be to just find a "full cluster" renix era?

What I am looking for is a "full cluster" (that means gauges instead of idiot lights I assume) and I don't care what color they are. I happen to already own a spare HO full cluster. Which is why I am asking if I can leave my current speedometer in my cluster, and swap the HO gauges from my spare into my 88 cluster.

I'm not necessarily opposed to it. But I don't see why I should do the extra work to make the red face speedometer work in my 88 MJ. Although I am happy to now know what is required to run the HO Speedo in my 88MJ.

Can I leave the speedometer and only swap the other gauges from the HO cluster into my 88 cluster?

I ordered the sensors from NAPA yesterday. Thanks for the info on using HO speedometers in renix jeeps! I'm fine with the old speedometer, which is why I was going to try swapping all of the gauges from the HO cluster (except the speedometer) into my 88 cluster. My truck already has a red/white/blue thing going on so I'm fine with the mix of gauge colors.

Well, I am buying the sending units for gauges, then I will try to install the oil/temp/batt/fuel/tach from a cluster with red lettering and electric speedometer into my 88 cluster.

I know you don't have pics, but how did you do it?

I want to swap the idiot lights in my 88 MJ instrument cluster for gauges. Will the oil/temp/batt/fuel gauges from a red accented, electric speedo, cluster swap into my 88 MJ blue faced cluster? I saw Blaine.D mention here; WTB or WTT 120mph speedometer that he was swapping in a HO gauge clustering his 88 MJ. I'd love to know what that entails. Thanks

I'm not seeing exactly how this style is supposed to be mounted. NEVERMND, I have brackets for the wrong year.