EUREKA

I can't wait to get one of the clock panel ones.

Sounds like most of the axles I've owned. I believe the spider gears are tempered to exact tolerance, so that they can breakdown at a specified rate and keep the carrier/pinion bearings polished.

I'm rarely wise enough to be intimidated.

I like to add a little polishing compound to my oil form time to time, just to keep things nice and polished in there.

I know you have to be a dumb ape to over tighten the hardware but in my defense Ive never done it on the other cluster swap I've done (all later HO clusters) and having a little dielectric grease where the screws contact the printed circuit thingy made is easier to over tighten. At least I was also a clever enough ape to fix it.

I recently upgraded from idiots lights to a "full cluster". Unfortunately when I tested my new gauges, I found that the fuel, Oil PSI , and water temp gauges were not functioning. Having just replaced the assorted senors and with confidence in my wiring harness condition and eliminated C101 connector, I decide to begin troubleshooting by examining the gauges. I found that tiny wires coming from the windings had been broken free from their solder joints. I used some tiny pieces of 22 gu. copper wire to bridge the broken wires back to the post/nut where they originally soldered. Below is the wire from the windings laying next to the 22gu copper before the two are soldered together. As per usual I got excited after finishing the repair and forgot to take pics. I'm sure you can imagine what the conductors looked like soldered together. This successfully repaired my gauges.

Awesome, thank you!

Now the seat belt light comes on when the ignition is turned to ON. And of course the brake light comes on if the ebrake is engaged. I am used to the check engine light being a check for the ECU when the ignition is turned to ON for later systems. No check engine light on this system at all. I'm enjoying learning the renix system. I need to get a FSM or anther great source for wiring diagrams.

It was the 7.5 amp fuse labeled GAUGES.

I see that ground is supplied to the bulb socket via a grey w/red striped wire that comes from he switch down by the ebrake lever. I cleaned the switch and made sure that I have continuity from the switch all the way to the VIC plug. So ground is not the issue, I am not getting my 12 volts from the white w/black conductor.

Are all of the lights in the VIC supposed to come on when the key is turned to ON? Yesterday I installed a new (to me) gauge cluster. Upon testing I found that only the BRAKE light in the VIC lit up (the ebrake was engaged) no other lights in the VIC lit when turning the key to ON. I then decided that I did not like the LED lights I had installed and replaced them with incandescents. After doing this I found that the BRAKE light not longer lights up, even though the ebrake is engaged. I tested the bulbs by powering them directly with 12 volts, all of them are good, yet none light. Metering the traces on the printed circuit "board?" I see that there is no voltage being supplied to the BRAKE light. Before I start looking at wiring diagrams, is there anything I should consider?

Just swapped back in all the incandescents.

Yes, only because I'm getting ahead of myself.

At least I got the instrument panel ground upgraded successfully.

Not the smoothest day of wrenching today. Got a full gauge cluster swapped in, then realized that I neglected to account for polarity when I installed LED lights in the cluster. Also realized that I kinda like being able to dim the dash lights so I'm probably going back to incandescent. Plus the fuel gauge in the full cluster I installed doesn't seem to be working. This is a real bummer! Also got the wrong part from NAPA for the temp sensor that going in the intake manifold. The one I got looks very similar but is a larger thread size. I know that's not one that feeds the gauges but I wanted to swap it out anyway.

I have both my MJ's on the registry.

Scrubbing now.

That would be great info to have.

I hear you but both the factory filter from my 88 and the replacement have references to anti-lock. I am 100% sure the one in my 88 idiot light cluster is original.

Thank you. Bummer that my filter is in such poor condition. Is it possible to polish the the deteriorating clear coat off of it?

Thank you, I remember learning about this years ago now. I would have never remembered that. Weird thing is it looks as if there was never a bulb there at all. No signs of wear the contact would have been between the copper traces and bulb holder at all.

I'll have to ask 88mjsally, I just bought it from him. It is blue faced renix.

I am doing an instrument cluster swap and noticed that it appears there was never a bulb installed in the "EMISS MAINT" light position in my old cluster. On the new cluster this position is "CHECK ENGINE". What the deal with that? And what does the "LOCK" light indicate? Something to do with door locks?

No I have not, that wouldn't be an interesting project for me. I do own a camper shell for it. Almost fits perfectly.

I know what I need for over landing, and I know what I would want. There is a big gap between for sure. I'm trying to impress myself. I have a decent amount of experience off-roading as a hobby. I've owned 8 jeeps over the years and used to go off road a lot. But I do appreciate your sentiment.