Torq_Shep

It is not a metri-280. It is almost like a hybrid between a Metri-280 and an old Ford "Wedge Lock". I am beginning to wonder if this plug and the 1991-1992 taillight harness connector plug are Chrysler exclusive. The pins are also not like anything I have seen on another plug. The only markings on any part of the plug are: 16 451 and A4 And that is only on the wedge itself.

They are not pointed in a great direction for tweeters. I am sure the stock ones aren't very good by now.

FYI. I just crossed this thread with the electrical connectors thread. I figured eventually that thread might have all of the electrical references and we can recompile it all.

Relay Block Source (I believe primarily Renix 87-90?)

I have the majority of a majorly hacked up 1991 harness except the engine harness and an okay 1996 engine harness I am going to work on. Whenever I pull the 1991 harness from the truck I can map that one but I believe it is also pretty hacked up. I hunted for hours on the 1991/1992 6 pin taillight harness at the back of bed and I am not completely terrible at it. Might be a Reddit special... I am really interested about the 6 pin that connects inside the cab.

Fuel Pump and Sender (at least for a 1991) is Weather Pack 3 pin.

Tail Light, Rear Turn Signal, and license plate light sockets

Taillight Connectors: These still need actual identification if anyone can help. The 1986 one is obviously a Weather Pack 6 Pin but I have no idea on the 1990 or 1991/1992 one.

If you don't run the evap line, your tank is unlikely to be harmed. Your engine is likely going to run the same with or without that line connected. Positives: - You didn't have to hook up the hose. It looks less cluttered under hood. Negatives: - Those vapors will eventually go somewhere that is not your combustion chamber. It isn't ideal for the environment and you are probably missing out on the tiniest bit of fuel efficiency. - You may notice a fuel smell near your parking space especially if it is enclosed. You may also notice a fuel smell in the cab. - Even if you are not in an emissions state it is still technically not legal. My opinion would be to hook it up. Not hooking it up is WAY less bad than not running a catalytic converter but it doesn't hurt anything to have it connected.

The cost of the crimpers is absolutely insane... Generally, for repairs, pigtails are just fine. I am on the fence on if I want to start doing some harness work on the side which is why I am starting to invest in the tools.

I agree, the harness in the back of the truck is pretty easy. I am starting there but I am eventually going to do the cab and engine as well. The universal kit will get me there when I get to that part but I am also considering just mapping the harnesses and having them quoted for assembly. Biggest issue would be building a test fixture to make sure the assembly was correct. From building construction equipment, I generally try and terminate at a plug whenever possible. The number of "gotchas" when building a harness is kind of insane and you won't know until it comes back to my desk as an RMA =P I just bought the knockoff Deutsch crimper to do this and a bunch of other stuff on the truck. Need to go and buy the pins but I have a number of housings. https://www.jrdtools.com/products/jrready-new-dt1-crimp-tool-hdt-48-00-equivalent-drk-rt1-hook-drk-rt1-screwdriver-for-in-automotive-motorcycles-trucks-repairing-maintenance I prefer the Deutsch over the Metri-packs just because I think the pin connection is a lot better (basically impossible to not get right) and you can buy 1 piece pins that don't spread out overtime.

Sent.

Sure thing! Glad to see you are still around. Last I recall you were doing a Holley ECU right? I am planning to do a late JTEC but I am curious on what you did. I will probably go read your posts later =P

I have been a way for a few years but I am preparing to go grab my truck from a few hours south of here in the following few weeks. I have fairly substantial wiring issues with the truck but I think I can fix it enough to get it from Boring, OR to Seattle, WA. One of my major problems is that there is a major short in my taillight circuit. I am assuming it is the taillight harness but it could be anywhere in that circuit. As I do not have the truck here I started looking at a harness I pulled off my parts truck and put in a box years ago. One thing I did was to find as many of the parts of this harness that I could find but I still have more work to do. It is probably documented somewhere on here but I think I found the following cross references: Stop Lamps and Rear Markers: - GM 12003759 *Only the GM one has a gray housing like the original. the others are beige housings. - Standard S502 looks to be correct but it is not using Aptiv/Delphi parts to assemble. Housing is light tan, no markings, wiring is AVS 0.85 metric wiring vs TXL 18ga, and the socket pins are not knurled like the Delphi. Adequate product just not as good as original. - AC Delco LS253 ** Does not directly fit. The pins and back plate are the same but the tabs are slight off. Best I can tell these are Aptiv/Delphi 12089345 Housings. - Aptiv/Delphi Housing: ???? - Aptiv/Delphi Ground Pin: 08917863 - Aptiv/Delphi Terminals: 08917861 - Aptiv/Delphi Gasket: 12020720 - Aptiv/Delphi Back Cover: 12077444 - Aptiv/Dephi Bulb (if you would ever want that): 09438848 Reverse Light Socket: - GM 12027133 - May be an AC Delco LS50 - May be a Dorman 85869 - May be a BWD S9156 - May be a Standard Ignition S-768 License Plate Light Socket: - GM 12083460 - Likely an AC Delco LS32 What I do not have is the 1991-1992 6pin connector cross reference. I also wish I could buy the sockets as pins and housings to crimp my own wire into but I doubt I will have any luck there. If anyone wants to chime in and help or if someone has already done a bunch of cross referencing work I am VERY interested for the entire truck and not just the rear harness. I am also debating building cab back harnesses or having them built. The parts aren't cheap but the cab back harness seems to be falling apart on every one of these trucks. If there is significant interest in this I will put together a bill of materials for these harnesses and get a quote on getting them done (or do them myself).

One thing that really helped with my Eliminator wheels to not damage the machining marks on the outside edge was actually putting them on the truck and putting the truck in gear with the rear end jacked up and holding the scotch pad against the rim in the flat areas. You have to be extremely careful doing this, wheel chocks, extra jack stands, etc, but it worked like polishing on a lathe for the final pass.

I am more of a book learner myself but I sadly do not remember what my EE book was. I don't know what your current understanding is but I have actually had really great experiences with the very cheap coursera courses. You could start with Khan Academy (or similar) EE classes as they usually give a fantastic high level overview. Plus you get like a week or two free so you can try out a few lessons and if it is above or below where you think you are you can just switch to a different course. Plus at the end of the course you get a nifty little certificate =P

All of it depends on what exactly you want to do. Getting a broad understanding of circuits is definitely doable for anyone wanting to learn it. I agree with Ohm though. If you learn the history of the units it makes things so much more interesting. My technical background is data acquisition and electromechanical system integration. All circuits are equally stupid simple and insanely complex depending on the level of understanding you are trying to achieve.

Very sad to hear. Dude was an absolute godsend for Renix stuff and nice as heck. Condolences to family.

I fit (and got running) an Ecotec LHU (Turbo 2.0L 260hp rated) that fit pretty well but there was definitely oil pan concerns and I never took it out on the street. Sold the truck and lost contact with the new owner on that one. I have done several SBCs to LS motors on random vehicles. Worked in an auto lab swapping random motors into test stands all of the time for 7 years and worked for Perkins as an applications engineer for an additional year. Engine swaps should not be taken lightly. If the conversion kit does not exist and you are anything less than completely confident with a plasma cutter, grinder, and welder along with a multimeter and a very good knowledge of electrical diagrams, I would not attempt it.

Depends on the application. If you already have an iPhone than Airpod Pro's 100%. I don't have an iPhone I use Pixel Buds and they are fine. I have some Jabra noise cancelling ones from work that are complete trash. If you are using them for PC use, consider over-ears in which case I highly recommend the Sony XM4s. They are generally regarded as better than the XM5s and the noise cancelling is multiple times better than the best buds out there.

Seattle? It's like the U.S. equivalent and only like a 3 hour drive.

I parked mine in a gravel lot near Portland since 2022. It had some fairly significant electrical issues when I parked it but it was able to tow the parts truck 3k miles from Texas literally the day I left it down in Oregon. I am going to go get it, or at least work on it this summer. Motivation might just be a break?

Depends on your state. Some states will allow you to bond a title. I have had 4-5 bonded vehicles out of Texas over the years. Florida did not allow it and I am not sure about my current state.

Pretty much. Plan to build a stand alone JTEC engine harness as I plan to tuck the harness with the current build.

Does anyone have a reference for what the JTEC (1996-2001) ECU connectors and pins are? I can use used connectors but I definitely would like to find pins if possible.