DJM/78

Could a TPS , go bad from cold weather and run fine when it warms up ?

^ Knows from experience .... :cheers:

I knew it was a Mary Kay car ! :rotf: Caddy's are hard to find in pink . My black on black Coupe De'ville was only special order for FBI and government use and Funeral homes . Sorry I should have read the thread more , I thought it was an older V8 .

No . How do I do that ?

Maybe If it was black , :dunno: The more you look at it , the more ideas run your mind .

^^ One has one . ^ This one has two and both make mine look like poo..... :rotf:

I've owned two of them , some of the coolest cars I have ever owned , Fast too . :rotf: One was a 77 coupe and a rare black on black 78 . Those motors are tanks . I believe they are 560 blocks bored to 429 , supper thick piston walls . Careful though , they starve themselves even with a 500 cfm quadra-jet carb. :ack: I fuel injected one of mine with a corvette EFI and computer . Nice find , was it a Pimps Mary Kay car ?

I'd would think that the code is in there . Check light is off though . I have never even had to touch the gas to start this truck , until now . What led me to think it was the fuel system was gas pedal thing . I thought it could have been just flooded ? However I'm a newbie to Jeeps and fuel systems .

My truck has ran good and since I bought it . Usually starts right up , but the last couple of weeks have been cold and my stock 4.0 HO takes a little longer to turn over . This morning again , starts up slow , but the check light comes on and was running rough . I shut the motor down and restarted , only this time , NO START . :ack: Took me about twenty min. to get it to turn over . The only thing that worked was leaving the truck in neutral , putting the gas all the way to the floor and turning the key for about 4-5 sec. at a time . Worked on second try . I don't know too much about a 91-92 EFI and this is the first problem I've had with it . Did the trick with the gas pedal reset the computer ? This works with some newer model vehicles . Or is there another problem I should be looking at , possibly EFI ? I've never had to spend any time starting the truck , fires up on a dime . After the restart , no check light ? Starts OK now but I've seen it starting to take more and more time to turn over . Once it warms , up all is good . :dunno:

Great job ! Please don't use bondo ! Find some fiberglass resin at your local paint supply . Yeah , its allot harder to work with but will hold up . Bondo can still let the metal rust under the coat . Fiberglass reinforces any areas that are weak and helps seal the metal . We use it in the body shops all the time . If the customer doesn't want to pay very much , we use Bondo . They'll be back in a couple of years doing it over . :thumbsup:

Nice !! That was my original concept when I bought my truck , to see how many TJ parts would retro-fit to the MJ . I plan on keeping my truck for as long as possible , so finding newer more abundant and better working parts is a great idea .

First off , welcome to the end of extra spending cash , say bye bye :nuts: These trucks in my opinion , have little to no metal , the worst primer coats and ok to fair factory paint jobs . Never mind the clear coat , thats worthless . Typical base to clear coat style paint jobs from that time period . As stated before , very little inner panel protection was offered and there are allot of areas that water and salt can find its way back in the nooks and folds of the metal . Then , it just sits there , rotting away . Do like everyone else here does and pull up that carpet , check those inner fender wells and rockers . Allot of guys here use POR-15 and coat the sh@t out of the under side and floor pans .

A full leaf pack is the way to go , It promotes a smooth ride , good flex and reduces the chance of spring wrap . I don't know if you will need shackles after that , it depends on how much lift you want .

Yeah , I got the point alright . Thats why it must be the paint job . :rotf:

I don't care who ya' are , thats funny !!! Now just imagine if that was a convertible top , how bad those "A" pillars would have been . :ack: It does kinda look like a new SUV now . :nuts:

Mucho grassy @ss !!

Thats what my wife keeps telling me !!! :dunno: Just don't call me sacha , might get confused with sasha . :rotf:

:rotf: Yeah , I gave up on drag racing cars , I moved to 8-9 second quarter mile bikes . Still DD bikes , and they still get 50 mpg . :ack: IMHO , if you want something fast , buy a bike . :thumbsup: Nothing slams your cheeks to the back of your head like a bike .

Yeah, but did your have "Too many problems to worry about"? :clapping: Na , your right ! I still think I paid too much though . Seeing how some guys pick their trucks up for 500.00 $

I have raced those things for years , IMHO I wouldn't touch the damd things , pure POS . Mostly Mitsubishi parts and the ever hated timing belt . Sh@ty tensioner and pully's . After I rebuilt my fourth motor , I gave up . Those tension pully and belt do not like cold weather , all it takes is for a couple of teeth to slip and you have yourself bent rods and valves . Not to mention what the turbo does to the valves after 40-50k miles . The first gen. DSM has a good cast iron block though . Good for over boosting . When it ran , I could get easy 12 second time slips with a stock DSM .

Guess I'd put my @ss up here since ya'll did . Image Not Found Image Not Found

I would go with a new set of BF AT's or MT's , My BF AT's have held up great . Good side wall protection and overall traction . More for daily driving than anything . Not as capable as some MT's , so I guess its what you need out of them .

^ Made me realize I can't spell either ! Work !! damned spell check !!! :doh:

^ Wants to go tare up somebody's back yard . :fool:

What ? That color green is sooooo rare ! :shake: Sad thing is someone will pay it . I paid 2700.00 for mine , thats standard price around here . Can't find one for less than 2,000 thats worth a $#!& !!! :ack: