DJM/78

Go with the stock ones , right out the box they ride a whole lot smoother and you don't have to grease them up . I'm still using WJ uppers but RE supper ride lowers .

Alright , last night I went through and cleaned my fuel system with some Techron fuel cleaner and some Lucas fuel system cleaner and lubricant . Replaced the fuel filter and threw some 87 back in the tank . Cleaned of the spark plug prongs and checked all the plug wires . Drove it last night and this morning for a while and it runs allot better , not perfect but I'll take it as it comes . She's still a little cranky but starts right up and I've got some of my power back . What impressed me was the Lucas Oil stabilizer and the cylinder head lubricant/fuel system cleaner worked good . Took out some of the knocks out of the valve train too . I think my truck just doesn't want any thing lower than 87 ... :huh???: 91 is too high up here , no difference in power from the 87 fuel .

What does the top of the spark plugs look like ? Yesterday I had the same problem , so last night I drained the tank , added 87 with some Techron fuel system cleaner and some Lucas oil fuel system cleaner and lubricant . Drove it around for a while and got some of that crap out of the injectors . Then this morning I let it idle for about 30 min . It already runs better , starts up better and took some of the valve noise out of the eng. It will probably take a full tank or two to fully do its job . I also cleaned all of the spark plug prongs and put a new fuel filter in , checked all connections on the plug wires and vac. lines . Some of those vac. lines were lined in oil . I would still check the fuel pressure , if you don't notice any difference . Get that throttle body/ injectors cleaned as best you can and go from there .

Big parking lots or open fields is how I've learned to ride or drive everything in my life . Find a empty parking lot and use the lines to pick starting and stopping points . Do it over and over until your completely confident in your skills . Then raise the bar , try to get the truck off the line as fast as you can without spinning the tires or stalling the truck . Most importantly , see how fast you can get the truck to stop without locking the brakes or going over a stopping line . Do this enough and you'll be able to safely drive yourself through the hell storm we call Rush hour traffic . Having a full understanding of what that vehicle can and cannot do . My Dad taught me to ride bikes , motorcycles and cars this way and now I am teaching my sons . Call it extreme , but some defensive driving courses use some of the same tests .

yeah , I'm still going to check everything else too . I knew if I tried putting anything other than 91 in my race bikes , they just won't run , but man this made a huge difference . Its almost like something is plugged or a spark plug or wire isn't firing right . Which I'm going to look at tonight , in the cold and dark , on the rocks ... :nuts: Thanks

It says it was 85 , I don't know ? It was just the standard low grade gas , but just as soon as I put it in there I lost tons of response and power . I've never seen this big of a difference between the 85 87 before ... I've been running 87 in it since the day I got it , figured I'd change just to see how it ran . Guess I'm just a dumb@ss .

No they won't have to cut the tabs , but there is more clearance for the glass and its easier to cut the old urethane out of the pinch weld that way . Pinch weld prep is key to a good seal and a flush seat on the glass . Get that pinch weld as clean and smooth as possible , any rust or unsealed metal should be sanded cleaned . Use a professional pinch weld primer , it works allot like POR 13 and seals the metal preventing and almost stopping rust already in the metal . Any nicks or chips in the paint can be easily coated , creating an almost permanent bond with the surface under the primer . The primer is also designed to bond to the urethane . I usually put a light coat on the glass before running a urethane bead and installing the glass as well .

Yeah ! its coming out when I'm done with work . Thanks

Looks like a custom super long arm ... :yes: Is it just me or are those things way back there ! Must be the pic ?

OK , so if there is only about a quarter tank left , I could just add some REAL octane booster and some fuel system cleaner and flush the rest of that out before adding better fuel ? What fuel system cleaners and products do you think would work best for a 4.0 HO with 200k on it . I've been hesitant to put any eng. flushes or fuel system cleaners in it for fear of something really coming loose in there and clogging or damaging something more important .

Longer lower control arm's , some may disagree but improves ride and stability and allows more adjustment for arm and pinion angle by moving the control arm brackets further back , also allows more flex and better bushings for durability . I'm setting up a short arm kit right now , but the long arm kit is in the future .

Yeah its E 85 , I knew I shouldn't have done that ..... :doh: Lesson learned . I guess I'll run 91 in it from now on .

So for the first time since I bought my truck , I wanted to see how my truck would run on 85 octane fuel . Now she's mad at me , its like taking a supermodel to Taco Bell for a first date .. Anyway , loss of power is amazing , stutters through low RPM's and forget 5th , worthless .... I'm guessing its the fuel because she started running that way as soon as I put it in there . What octane are you guys running and yes I know , it looks like I'll be going through the fuel system and all the vac. lines as well . Even better I'll be doing it in the snow this weekend .... yea ... :dunce:

:agree: :clapping: :cheers: Good ol' BFG AT's can't go wrong with that . :thumbsup: In my area the city and state are bitching about being in debt , so they took all the trash cans out of the parks , kicked the bum's out from under the bridge , raised taxes , shut half of the streetlights down and fired most of the city road crews as well as the DOT sand trucks . Their down to a skeleton crew , barely keeping up with the snow storms .. If that gives you any indication of how are roads look , simply put there is no difference between on and off road around here . The BFG AT ko's that I've been putting through hell , have held up very well to the city's lack of care for the tax payers who float their paychecks . off .

I had a distributor that was grounding that caused the same problem , took me forever to find it because it only did it under heavy throttle in gear . 1-2-3 were terrible and yeah no 5th . Thing is once I tested the Dist. , It worked fine . Under heavy throttle older motor mounts flex and torque out and caused a clearance issue with the block and the dist. It could be a number of things but I'd start with spark since you can still smell fuel ... :dunno:

I didn't pay much more than that at a local shop in town for my new BFG AT's , No charges for mounting and disposal or stems . I got the wheels as a package deal with the rims . Do your research , haggle a couple of shops in town and find the best price . Always take other shops quotes with you and show them the paperwork . Most shops will either try to match or beat the deal to get your business . :cheers:

I think the skid plate is the same size , mine looks the same as all the other ones that i've seen but thats not very many .. I am about to make my own thick gauge steel and powder coated .

Its bad enough she has to listen to that voice .... :fool:

Yeah this up on post a while back . Needs caged !!!! If I were to cut the top off , I would have cut out the back of the cab and the bed and french it all in together . By that point you might as well buy a two door XJ and cut the top off , then cage it . :nuts: Besides the top , it just looks like is missing something .. :hmm:

Yeah , they rubbed a small amount on the front . I cut the front fenders because of the front bumper has the fender armor , I haven't put that on yet . There is also a nasty little clip in there , that if the tire ever comes in contact with it , it will just shred the tire . The back fender has that jagged metal clip just under the plastic on the lower middle section , thats where most of the rub was . I just saw how thin and cheesy the front of the quarter panel was , so I removed it . IMO these trucks should have come with bigger tires and more front fender well clearance , like the CJ's , TJ's . It sure stabilizes the ride quite a bit . Lifted jeeps need help with that if you plan on using the truck as a DD .

:drool:

Progress report : I've been busy lately trying to complete a couple things on my recent objective list . Recently finished a brand spanking new D44 with true-track , 456 yukon gears , alloy axle shafts , new seals and bearings and a shiny new set of Tera -Flex slotted disc brakes conversion kit . The axle has been laser checked for alignment , housing has been reinforced and completely refinished . Got the gears to match the front and having the bearings and seals replaced . I am also adding a true 3.5" lift with Tera-Flex 3.5" coils and custom made rear 3.5" spring pack . ( local shop ) RE express adjustable LCA's and WJ UCA's for a more stable ride . Probably beefing up the steering at the same time . Its taking me a while to get all the money together , all I need is the springs and I'm set with a whole new rear end . :chillin: I'm having a professional performance shop do all the work because this project was beyond my skill level . I'm lacking tools and knowledge ..pics to come....

Those spring shackles look exactly like mine .. stock ? Might be .. :dunno: Nice find on the 92" . very clean truck . :thumbsup:

Quite all right , lots of good info . Makes me glad I found my 92" . Well done .. :cheers:

:agree: I have a LEER if anyone wants it . Good condition 300.00 :yes: However its not just the box dimensions but the height of the box thats the problem . I found about 5 different toppers that fit the box dimension but not the height . Your better off finding a topper company to make a custom top . They will match the body lines and cab line perfectly . A friend of mine has a two door XJ that he converted to a two door convertible , not practical during the winter so he had a custom top made that bolts right on and seals perfectly , looks bad@ss too ... Who made your buddys topper for him? Any topper shop has manufacturers who make ( build - a - kit ) shells , I have built a couple myself back in the 90's . When low rider trucks were in style :chillin: They always had cool custom shells that sealed to the cab . I'm sure there are still a couple of manufacturers that make or sell custom shell kits .