Green Mesa XJ

Do you have cruise control ? If so it’s a two piece cable the the part for the cluster going to a junction box type deal near the fire wall Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

i think this one on ebay looks right, if nobody else has it. but like everybody said it is a early XJ/MJ problem https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Jeep-Hood-Latch-Safety-Catch-and-Bumper-Adjuster-XJ-Cherokee-Sport-1984-2001/401388492888?fits=Year%3A1984|Model%3ACherokee&hash=item5d749e5858%3Ag%3ATMsAAOSwS51ZkF06%3Asc%3AUSPSFirstClass!32514!US!-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=1984+cherokee+hood+latch&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

um, you should just have to press a release on the speedometer cable, older 84-86 had a retainers on the cluster . I might not be describing it well enough but it's a by touch sort of thing

I’m not sure why the panel would need to be replaced unless it was ruined by brake fluid like the previous owner did to my XJ . I don’t remember other swaps requiring the fuse panel to be changed. Plenty have put automatic dash harness in to 5 speed XJ/mj with no issues, I got s automatic 4.0 dash harness/ fuse panel to work with a 1986 2.8 engine harness just to get a fuse panel with no chance of brake fluid damage. In my experience if the fuse panel needs to be replaced I find another Renix era dash harness, I have no proof but I think 1986-89 maybe 1990 are the same bulk head plug. I’ve have no experience with the pAinless wiring solution so it could be a ok option too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I may be wrong I thought his problem was the tcu was not getting power? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Did you confirm the tcu was getting power? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Did you find the problem? I think the new column was a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah the speedometer is mechanical so it’s nothing to do with the electronics of the cluster. Is it a standard/manual transmission? Reason I ask is in my 85 XJ had fuse box trouble because the previous owner had a leaking clutch master cylinder which is directly above the fuse box. If not it’d check the fuse terminals for the gauges to see if it has power then move on down the line, I would be tempted to pull the cluster just to check if it’s all plugged in and the printed circuit is ok, but the circumstances where they are not ok are to the extreme, probably best to start small. The speedometer has a cable that goes back to the transfer case or transmission along the drivers side from the fire Wall, some have a box the plug into near the fire wall for the cruise control I think. I forgot what year you have and can’t scan back with this app but there are different Renix era harness plugs that might be an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Those codes sound about normal if the battery was removed in the last 50 starts. Um, you have no clock spring, that’s for models with air bags. Maybe the ignition switch is screwed up and not allowing power to get to the TCU. Not sure how those switches can fail,because ours hasn’t at least not yet although one time it ran with the radio and other accessories stuck off because of the switch, next restart it ran normal and has ever since. I don’t know if the tcu was or was not getting power when the switch failed. If you column is screwed up maybe you should source a used or rebuilt column and replace the whole thing. Only reason I say this is I personally hate trying to rebuild/repair these 1984-94 columns other folks here may have better experiences and understanding of how to rebuild these columns. Other than the ignition switch (not the key cylinder the big switch with all the wires in the column) I would check the fuses in the engine bay for the transmission and check along the way to see if power for the tcu is any where in the tcu tracking it back from where it should start (engine bay fuse box passenger side near radiator reservoir) up to the plugs for the tcu. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That port isn’t going to be much help unless you have a code reader with a old jeep adapter. It’s on the drivers side fender in the engine bay sort of near the washer bottle if I’m remembering it right Before 1996 manufactures used whatever proprietary system and port to program their vehicles, so every vehicle was different. After 1996 laws required a unified system for at least reading diagnostic codes there’s still a ton of proprietary software in modern cars. The key trick shown below might help Did you check the fuse box in the engine bay? It should be a small 15 amp fuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There is no OBDII in 1991. There is a port in the engine bay a misshapen proprietary plug, obd maybe I forget the correct term. However the key trick should get you any codes the computer has. Sounds like there’s a issue getting power to the tcu, these tcu are dead simple essentially Toyota designed computers that rarely fail. If I remember right there is a auto transmission fuse in the engine bay fuse box, might be worth a check Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The grounds can be an issue at least in the old MJ/XJ, when I put in led in the tail lights it caused all kind of ground issues, or issues that acted like ground problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um on our 92 led bulbs front or rear cause odd blinker timing issues Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry. I wasn’t saying the first was a capacitor, it reminded me of a old one. My in law worked ac repair and used a lot of those industrial grade components when he wired his f350 to dual batteries. This wiring reminds me a lot of what he did. I don’t get what the PO was up to, unless the original harness was damaged none of this makes sense. Can you see what the wires go to? Are the replacing the factory starting system? My guess would be something else that used a lot of juice was wired in then removed be for the jeep was sold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok I know what some of those things are but no idea what they are doing in a mj. First one reminds me of ac capacitor, it’s probably not, but what the hell was the PO trying to rig? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think you’ve got it backwards, I’m saying the iron head 3.4 will fit just fine since it’s essentially is a stroked 2.8. A 2.8 block after 85 with the bigger mains can be converted to a 3.1. 3.4 is bored out more. 94 3.4 Camaro final rendition of the gen 1 2.8, cylinder head were the same 1985 to 1995 when the gen 1 ended. 3.4 was sold to jeep, Isuzu, gm , etc owners to upgrade their tired underpowered 2.8 & 3.1 engines. The fwd gen 2&3 are based on the block but it’s not the same engine like the gen 1 2.8,3.1,3.4. There are some who adapt the 3400 engine and aluminum heads to s10 and Cherokee but it’s not a drop in like the iron head gen 1 3.4. Oil pumps and pans can be vastly different along with a other changes to the block. It’s still a 60 deg block based on the original 1980 block, there are even v8s based on the design. All I’ve said is the Camaro 3.4 is the last engine like the original 2.8 that is bolt in for these jeeps and a good upgrade. I did say if it had flaws associated with it like the 2.8 I didn’t know about it but believe it to be a good engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

you do know what original design means? Troopers, s10, Camaro all uses the original generation 1 design. GM sold the Camaro 3.4 to owners of these vehicles to replace the 2.8 & 3.1 engines. S10 and Isuzu stoped using this engine in 91&93 they never got the 3.4 or adapted the FWD engines based on this block. Generation 2 and 3 are different animals. If the phrase final incarnation bugs you so much I’ll admit the final incarnation of the block did go until the late 2000s, however the original engine, generation 1, is the 3.4 Camaro. All kinds of things from later generations can be adapted but not easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So I got to get a screen capture to show you the link doesn’t work? Original 2.8 final edition as originally produced is for the Camaro & Firebird 3.4, freaking FWD that shared initial block design are far beyond and different generations from the iron head designs are unusable in these vehicles without a ton of fabrication. The 3400 engine has the same bellhousing bolt pattern and was based on the 60 deg block but is not the same engine from the 1980s. I don’t know why you are intent on nitpicking a moot point to start a fight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Bad link. And your point is what exactly? RWD iron head the 3.4 in the Camaro is the direct descendant and final incarnation of the GM 2.8, almost bolt per bolt. If you want to bring up aluminum head FWD it’s a completely different can of worms and not really the same engine as the original GM design. The new gm 2.8 I4 they share with Isuzu has nothing to do with the old late 70s design. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

3.4 is the final rendition of the gm 2.8. Far as I know it’s pretty decent over all considering it’s such a small engine. IMO the automatic is part of the problem. Ax5 with a 2.8 power house (jk) could chirp the tires 1&2, and did ok city except for steep hills with speed limits over 40. Could do ok on the hwy once (eventually) up to speed. BTW Was running 30.5 tires. Maybe there’s a way to adjust the kick down on the automatic? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The alternator is a standard gm style, very common. Vato zone or wherever should keep at least one version of this alternator near by. Far as repair procedure I don’t know enough about Renix or 2.5 engines to say but it should be similar to the 87-90 4.0 alternator job, and identical to the 87-90 2.5. Somebody that knows for sure will be by to steer you right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Won’t argue with that. The point with this guy was it was a intact 5 speed with a lift. What he said he wanted to do was modify it for some local event. He didn’t ask what year or engine it had and wasn’t put off by the boat anchor for an engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Probably, but I don’t think I’ve seen that many around here. Automatic are a dime a dozen and 4.0 paired with AW4 is a good match. Out west I saw a lot more 5speeds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When I junked some cars, empty hulls and a few projects that didn’t make it, one of the tow truck drivers keep making offers for my 85 XJ which was on another part of the property. He saw it when he came up to the house. He wanted it no matter what because it was a manual transmission, according to him it was impossible to find. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Went through the same thing on a 85 XJ. Only once in three years did NOS fuse box come up on eBay, all it is is the the plastic assembly no wires. Best solution is junkyard dash wiring harness, possibly from an automatic is possible. The tricky part is there are not going to be a lot of 86 XJ or mj in the junk yards any more. Car-part . Com and hollander parts to sea has used inventories on line. But I think all the Renix era dash harness may work. I put a 88 dash harness in along with a 86 2.8 engine harness. It bolted up and works. But I don’t know if it’s true for all Renix era XJ/MJ or if I got lucky and it worked with the 2.8 harness. In the electric trouble storing guides the bulk head connectors look the same but there is no interchange I know of, best way is to match year and options. Another possibility is trying to take it apart and clean it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro