Green Mesa XJ

This may sound stupid but how is the alternator? I remember someone had a poor running xj that a new alternator fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes sir. It's a bit better but not much. I've gone through 3 o2 sensors, 3 tps, 2 iac, 2 sets of injectors, 2 sets of spark plugs and a bunch of other stuff. I have a full list at home but short of putting in this new distributor, map sensor and finding another computer it's getting slim on possibilities. ouch! That's a lot of parts to swap test I'm leaning towards wiring problem and/or ecu. But I'd start with some of the checks for map and ecu that have been recommended in the last post or two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just read through the thread, so this is how the motor ran before the rebuild??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's the way I've always done the axel fluid change as well. Normally I loosen the fill plug first, pull the cover, clean it up, bolt the cover back up with a new seal, top off until gear oil flows out of the fill hole . The other way it can be done I to snake a hose to pump out the fluid and then refill. Some of the newer jeeps this is easier than getting all the crap out of the way to get the cover off. But I prefer removing the cover where I can just to fully drain the old fluid and get an idea of what happening with the axel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

500-550 rpm idle sounds low to me. At least for the 91-92 4.0 Ours normally starts cold at 900-1000 rpm then drops down to 650-700 a few seconds later as it warms up. Maybe your IAC is going bad. Or maybe you're in the normal range and ours is faulty. I'll see if the FSM has the idle range. Just found out the rough idle my f150 has is because of the O2 sensors are starting to fail. No CEL, apparently the CEL will only come on for a complete failure, only figured it out by watching the voltage readings from the upstream sensors. Not sure if the O2 would cause the same issue in the old Xj. Almost could think this could be caused a vacuum leak too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Found this in a 1988 XJ electrical manual Empty - 1 ohm Half full - 44 ohm Full - 88 ohm It should be the same or similar for the MJ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think for xj 84-90 the readings are Full- 88 ohms Empty - 0 ohms I need to look it up again it's been a little while since I messed with the system. I do know 91 Chrysler swap the reading , so empty read full on a 84-90 gauge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's not bad price on the transfer case. What I'd call high fair but it's been years since I looked for a 21 spline np231 ($75-150 - years ago) 23 spline np231 that is where the lower price sitting about a year ago. ($100-250).You can do better sometimes but it depends on where you are. I've been looking for a spare 91-96 aw4 4wd off and on for years $100-200 is a good price if you can find it. I'm Not sure what the guy with the parts is doing, I'm kind of leery his stock keeps morphing. If his transmission is 1990 it should work with your transfer case just fine. If it's 1991 up you'd need to swap the gear for the right one or the transfer case to match the transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There is a tool to install the old design pickup tubes correctly, basically its a clamp with a rod attached that you can tap the pick up tube into place. If the new pumps are ready to go with the pickup tube in place that is the way I'd go. I hate trying to line up the pick up correctly. Some require testing the instillation against the depth of the pan, a real PITA. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I did the 8.8 swat to my xj, I did need wheel spacers to get the rims/tires out enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When did a parts search they didn't show a mid year difference. Usually pretty accurate far as that goes. From the searches I've done everybody says 90 is a 21 spline except for ax15 which is 23 spline. As long as was built before August 1990 it still a 1990 model after August its a 91 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think the 90 is the 21 count spline (87-90) and 91 up is the 23. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

As long as it matches the bulkhead plug for the engine and body harness you should be fine. You might find a few plugs that don't belong to your option MJ. 1990 is the last renix year so I think it'll work but maybe a renix expert can make the final call . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is the new Included with the MJ dash harness complete? The bolt on the engine harness pull the bulkhead plugs together. I'd post a picture on the new complete harness plug to make sure it's for the right year / renix harness. Most of the rest of the dash plug will match up through out the years 1984-94. Just got to make sure the new harness is right for your year, or exactly matches the bulkhead plug on the old harness. I don't think being xj or mj harness will screw you up as long as it plugs into body harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What year dash harness did you buy? You can have plugs for transmission control and power seats and windows, and defrost, that were in the donor vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Mj & XJ aw4 automatic transmission 87-90 are a direct fit , but just about any 2wd AW4 transmission might work. Internally they are almost identical with differences through various years in plugs and maybe driveshafts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I put a ford 8.8 with disc brakes in my 85 XJ and run the stock booster and master. Only thing I did was remove O-ring from the proportioning valve, that was the advice when I did it, now I'm not sure what the recommended procedure is, I see a lot of talk of using a ZJ portioning valve, or leaving the stock valve alone. You can update the booster and master to a dual diaphragm designs for better braking but that's another headache of making and fitting your own lines to the new brake master. Simplest way is do the swap and leave everything else stock. The only thing I don't know about is if you need to remove the o-ring from the proportioning valve or not. Many people say they are fine with it as is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Glad to help! It was a huge hassle to find the right seals the first time I did the job, seriously took weeks to finally get the right seals. Eventually started keeping a repair log on my computer with the parts numbers if I can remember them. Pretty much order all my parts online to avoid the confusion the counterman can add. Sort of like how fast food cashiers get between us and what we actually order. :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry the pictures are backwards. 83503504 is the passengers side with disconnect. The next trick is rigging a way to press that seal in. There is one place I am aware of that makes the tools, I've had mixed results making my own tool. Edit : when I first tried to find these seals around 2003-4 nothing was accurate on line and the local shop that supposedly specialized in axels couldn't find it in their books, I had to bring my print out from the parts catalogue. Amazing seeing as how common these axels were in jeep and dodge trucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Mopar # 83503504 That's the big seal for the vacuum disconnect side Crown uses the same part number 2.12" intermediate axel seal. Axel shaft seal Dana Spicer part # 46470 These should be the two axel shaft seal for the front if you have a Dana 30 with vacuum disconnect . I've noticed some of of the regular shaft seals like the Dana 46470 can look a lot more aggressive for keeping dirt and mud out. I think national may be the brand of seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sounds like you have the vacuum disconnect axel (CAD). It is a bit of a hassle to get them looked up correctly most kits have the seals for non vacuum CAD axels. I just bought these seals a in the last year when I get home I'll search for the part numbers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The part number for the switch is: 83502719 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=942301&cc=1179996&jsn=403 I'll be glad to be wrong, that's not the switch that burned out, or not what mine looked like. Of course it may be part of the early model xj curse. And it's been decades since I hunted for that part. This is not exact but mine burned out the bigger plugs. And I may have my definitions wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

ditto! 20 years ago I bought my first jeep, first vehicle I bought on my own (first car was a old VW my parents gave me) and hit the internet to learn whatever I could about the XJ, Eagle was a big part of that education even if we've never spoken. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Definitely test the motor. One of my XJs I ran the fan right to the battery the first winter. The motor burned out and took the switch in the dash with it. Melted it pretty good. Far as I know there is no part number just for the blower switch, I had to get the assembly from a junk yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'd check the MAP the be sure it's all connected. Does any of this change with the clutch engaged or disengaged? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro