Dzimm

This may have the answer in it and would just be cool to have. Was thinking about buying it but the currency exchange doesn't work in our favor. https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=13395268588&searchurl=an%3Dr.m%2Bclarke%26sortby%3D17%26tn%3Djeep%2Bcherokee%2Bcomanche%2Bpickups

Any info on the ad campaign at all? May lead to more info

Then a nice big building to display it all for us to come see!

Haha if only they marketed them properly... https://giphy.com/gifs/natgeowild-wild-nat-geo-animals-gone-l41YANsiJxTduTe00 I really can't think of anything else those things could be..

One other thing we should mention is that the MJ is the same as the XJ Cherokee from the a-pillar forward and mostly the same from the b-pillar forward. This means a large amount of the XJ parts and information applies to the front end of the MJ. Often times I find research is easier by searching under XJ as there are way more out there for the XJ.

You'll need to cut the plug off and splice the wires together, or get the plug from the Dakota harness and replace the one on the MJ so it's removable. You will need all 4 wires tho so trace it back to the XJ harness and splice there.

You'll need to follow that back and see where it's spliced into the XJ harness. I'm guessing it will be under the driver's seat where the MJ pigtail ends.

Keep us posted!

That's kind of what they look like. Does Europe have a weird requirement for something like that?

That's pretty interesting. Quite a conversation piece.

Keep in mind as well that some MJs came without a bumper at all so it may have just been added at some point but the dent in the bed tells me there may have been a minor accident at one time. The Dana 44 is a very good axle but quite hard to find on an MJ, it's just one of those things to check. Most MJs came with a Dana 35 which is on the weak end of things. If you don't drive it like a racecar or put big tires on it the Dana 35 should do okay. You can also post the VIN in the registry and a member will upload the build sheet for you, which will tell you everything about the truck as it came from the factory. As for the Peugeot, some break easy and a few have lasted a while. If it's well maintained you will have better luck but most toss it out at even the slightest hint of it having an issue in favor of an AX-15. You're in the best place for MJ knowledge and we are all happy to answer any questions you have. I'd recommend you start reading through build threads and the DIY/Tech section to get yourself a little more acquainted with the MJ, especially Cruiser's Renix tips. Being an 89 you will have a Renix electrical system, which can be complicated at times and was under-engineered in some areas but Cruiser's tips solves pretty much all of that. In 91 Chrysler made some changes and everything switched to what we refer to as HO (high output). When searching for info those are the big things that differentiate what will apply to your truck and what will not. Also what are your plans with this truck? Just a clean daily driver or are you planning to build it in some way?

Holy crap, $41 for a little metal dome. I imagine their profit margin was pretty good.

I can't speak much about pricing in your area. If that truck were here in Iowa, it would sell quickly at that price but that's mainly due to no/limited rust. I can provide some insight from what I can see tho. The truck looks to be in great shape but you'll want to inspect the floors as they are the most common rust points. if you buy it, pull the carpet immediately and fix any rust that's starting on the top side. That is a replacement rear bumper and there appears to be some damage under the passenger taillight so id be looking in that area for sure for any hidden damage and ask about it. It would take a decent hit to go through the bumper and do that much damage to the bed. You'll also want to figure out which trans it has, the transmissions that came in that era weren't great and are often swapped for the better AX-15. You'll also want to figure out what rear axle is in it as there is a chance it could have a Dana 44. Post up more pictures if you can and take the trip to go see it either way, even if it's not the one for you, it will give you a better idea of the MJ/XJ platform. Btw, welcome! And the addiction is real, it all starts with one Jeep.

No idea. HOrnbrod thought a bearing may have gone bad at one point. It looks like someone took a saw too it but it was that way when I bought it so I'll never know for sure.

It is very helpful. Not mine, just found it on Google.

Here are the wiring diagrams. Dakota: XJ  Just cut and match the wires. Also here is a thread that talks more details about using the Dakota tank and well as what some others have done to make it work. The way I did it is simpler imo.

You are correct. The 97-01 XJ stuff is all the same. As far as I know the 96-early 00s Dakota pumps are all the same as well. My Dakota tank and pump was from a 99. Get the later 90s pump and if you can the mid 90s tank for the extra axle clearance otherwise a late 90s Dakota tank is fine, just close to the axle in a swb MJ. No matter what 22 gal Dakota tank you get, you will need to make the clearance for the frame brace towards the front. The 18 gal fits without modification iirc. As for the wiring, I will post the diagrams of both plugs and you'll just need to splice them together. If you can, get the body side of the Dakota fuel pump harness so if you need to swap the Dakota pump later, it's a direct plug and play.

Either that is a professionally done one off body kit, or there is an unknown special Edition XJ package.... Very intriguing.

Not sure how far back you can go. 90 might be too old. As long as it's the plastic tank that looks the same as the pictures it should work. You will want the later fuel pump tho.

Whatever you do, don't get the silicone lines. They don't seal well at all.

Post up a picture. They aren't the license plate light wires are they? I can't think of anything else that should be back there unless it's something a PO added. Try following the wires back and see where they go.

Thanks for the advice, wasn't sure how contaminated it would be but yeah better safe than sorry. Replacing the brakes was the first time I had ever worked on one of these spindles and I couldn't believe how easy it was, I like the design quite a lot. I replaced every brake system component on this truck less than a year so the brake calipers should still be perfect. In reality I should just be looking for a new spindle all together and replace it on that side. When I had it apart it was chewed up pretty good.

Thanks! Does it happen to have a part number on it? Everything I read said that part store ones didn't fit right so I didn't try, may need to run into Napa and see what they have. I have the factory one on the other side yet but that doesn't help me with a Napa part number.

Also forgot to mention, if you get an older (early-mid 90s) 22gal Dakota tank, it has a different shape to the rear that clears the rear axle a little better, the late 90s 22gal sits within an inch or so of the rear diff.