Dzimm

The bed does unbolt but the frame is too long for a short bed. I can't imagine the holes would line up and it would look goofy since you'd have a 8" gap between the cab and bed to center the wheel well. You could do some Fab work to make it fit (moving axle forward, cutting the rear of the frame shorter, relocating every mounting point) but would be way more work than it's worth IMO. Would probably be easier to cut the frame rails off a short bed and replace the back half of the truck, but again would be a ton of work for what you are trying to accomplish. If it's just one bedside that's bad, just replace the bedside. It's just some cutting and welding and you'd get to clean everything up while the bed was off, plus it would save a bed from the scrapyard. If the bed is bad all around it would be worth your time finding a replacement bed that's the correct size.

It could probably stay up for someone interested in the XJ visor. It's a good find for sure!

They DO NOT interchange between XJ and MJ. Tons of misleading info out there on this. I bought an XJ one and tried it myself, doesn't work. Pictures in my 97+ build thread that show the problems. It can be made to work but will not directly bolt on.

Should mention as well, it only needs a front sway bar. They didn't have one in the rear from the factory as it really doesn't need a rear one for normal use or offroading.

That was more a hypothetical question if the yard would sell the disk swap parts for $100 or less because it would then mean the XJ axle with disks is cheaper than the KJ axle with disks, but id be limited to 3.55 gears due to supply near me. Regardless which I go with, I'll be buying new pads/rotors ect. I already bought a ZJ dist block and am gonna swap the spring over. I thought about using a manual adjustable one but I want to do this in stages so I can more easily troubleshoot if I need to and feel out everything as it changes to make sure I like the direction I'm going. The KJ I'm looking at has been in the yard for 3 years so I plan on at least rebuilding the calipers, I'll order new ones if I need them. I will be using the factory parking brake setup if I can get it adjusted. Having trouble with my current setup with all new parts, which is a whole different issue...

I don't question it can do it but I don't really want to drive it screaming all the time. I'm sure gas mileage would be very poor as well doing that high of rpm.

I can probably make 2" wider work. If you could get the measurement that would be awesome! Closest 4.10 axle for either is over 200 miles away so that's probably not gonna happen. 4.56 would be like 3600+rpm lol.

Thanks, didn't come across this one. Another one for the "couple inches wider" camp. At this point I've seen that more than anything else so it's probably safe to assume it is slightly wider but the actual numbers would be nice. "Couple inches" could be a half inch or could be 5, which really makes a difference. If we had u-pull yards around here I'd just go measure it myself.

Agree with above, not a full 97+ swap. From that picture it looks as though just the doors were swapped and some other seats as others have mentioned. Do you have any pictures of the front end? The front end can be swapped easily as well but as a whole this looks very much original still.

I could get away with 4.10 but cruising would put me a little over 3k rpm at 70mph and I would drive this truck a lot during the summer at highway speeds. The 3.73 would keep me closer to 2800rpm while still giving me a decent bump in acceleration. 3.55 is a little higher gear than I think I want to run which is another big part of why I was leaning KJ axle but I really need to know the width of it compared to the XJ to know if it'll work for me.

You didn't see a difference though in your case? I've only ever heard of disk always offering better braking. Did you swap I've the distribution block as well?

That one goes to your front pcv on the valve cover.

I don't think swapping on disks will affect width at all. Drums and disks are about the same thickness so it shouldn't change anything. This is for the 92 so 24" ish tires, ax15, 2wd and I would like to avoid spacers if at all possible. Also trying to stick with a Jeep axle.

You are saying the disks didn't offer much of a difference in your case? This will be on the race truck so I can use as much braking performance as possible. No worries on the front, it's 2wd.

Want to keep it all Jeep. Also trying to avoid width differences.

Here is a jig specifically designed to reclock the transfer case on an AX15. You could probably make this yourself and save the $50. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/transfer-case-clocking-drill-jig.html Thread talking about doing it. Sounds like all that is needed is the holes drilled in the back of the trans. May require a different trans mount as well, didn't read on it too much. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/clocking-231-transfer-case-1053744/%3famp=1

Ok so I'm looking for a 29 spline C8.25 and want disks. My options are: - 97+ XJ axle and get disk swap parts - 03+ KJ axle They don't seem to be the same width and I cannot find solid answers on how wide they are. I've read the KJ is wider and narrower than the XJ and I've seen they are about the same so which is it? XJ axle PROS - $150 for the axle - less cutting of brackets - same width as front CONS - have to buy disk conversion stuff (maybe less than $100??) KJ axle PROS - disk swap already done - better gear ratio (3.73 vs 3.55) CONS - $250 for the axle - Not sure if width differences would have negative impact on the track - less aftermarket support it seems - parts are more expensive I was heavily looking at the KJ axle but at this point I'm leaning more towards doing the XJ axle since it seems simpler. What's the widths and what's your thoughts? Thanks for the responses but I should clarify, I want to keep a Jeep axle so no 8.8. It's for the 92 so 2wd with small tires (24" ish).

I've used JB weld in the past and it kinda works until you take it off again. The more times you take it off, the more it breaks. From my experience you can "fix" it about 3 times before it's done for good. I learned the lesson of never remove the nuts from there, instead pull the bolts out of the metal angle bracket and leave it attached to the header panel to avoid messing with the studs in the fiberglass.

Unfortunately no. Haven't had much time to do anything I've wanted to. Been looking at axles and some other parts in hopes of obtaining them and doing the suspension work over the winter and into the spring.

You could look into a kit for a GM vehicle that had the proper ignition switch. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352287538544 This kit is an example, the ignition switch here is the one you'd need for your 89, no idea if the door locks are the proper size for a Jeep but something that you'd have to look into. Since it's a GM steering column, the ignition switch is shared with tons of older GM vehicles and most of the GM kits come with matching door locks, some of which may work in the MJ doors.

I'm curious what they would pay for a trade in on a halfway decent MJ.

If you plan on putting the flares back on just use front XJ fenders to patch the arches. They fit almost perfect and you don't notice it at all with the flares on the truck. Some of the flare mounting holes still line up too.

I'll be passing right by Martinsburg next week on my way to pick up my son from WVU for Thanksgiving break, I WILL seriously DEFINITELY pull off and take a look at this. Fixed it for ya

Surprised it went 2 hours without being brought up lol

grill is upside down Very nice looking truck though. Why do these deals always gotta be so far away?