Dzimm

Yeah I'd agree with Jeep Driver. If it were solid mounted it'd make all kinds of bad noises. I learned how critical exhaust position is when I turned down the exhaust right behind the rear axle on my XJ.

Just like Ant_mant explained, cut the cable, it's the easiest way. I've done it a few times now and it's always worked. Today I had a headlight out, popped the hood to check grounds before pulling it off and... 5mins to take the kick panel off and pull the mount off the cable to expose the strands, grab with pliers and good to go. Put the screws back into the sheetmetal to save for the replacement part later. If you don't care too much about looks, a cheap fix is the cheapest pair of small vise grips you can find and just permanently leave them on the cable.

Correct, sometime in the mid 80s is the cutoff for new machine guns. They could very easily make it even harder for people to afford NFA items by jacking up the tax and I'm surprised they haven't. I really wish I could afford a suppressor, no ear pro would be nice.

I have a feeling that many of the NFA items would be removed from the list of it were taken to court. The big reason for the NFA of 1934 was because the police force was greatly outgunned. Standard police issue at the time was a 6 shot revolver and mobs were running rampant with Thompson machine guns and other various, much more capable weapons. The quick fix was to put a ban on many weapons. There were definitely some good things that came out of the NFA but some things could be looked over again. These days, there isn't a reason for so much restriction as the police force has caught up with the times on firepower. The nice thing though is that the $200 tax to purchase an NFA item hasn't changed since 1934, meaning overtime it became easier for an average citizen to afford them.

If you end up finding yourself buried in NOS taillights, or any other parts, feel free to send to me for storage. I won't even charge you for it. But seriously keep it up, save all that you can.

As for the legality of weapons, most people really have no idea what is and isn't legal. With the right paperwork you can own pretty much anything. The exception is any "machine gun" made after like 1986 or something like that so unfortunately no electronicly controlled miniguns for a normal citizen but anything is pretty much free game if you have the money. Fully automatic guns made before the 1900s (can't remember the exact date) need no paperwork at all but good luck finding one. Most people don't know you can legally own a Gatling gun without any extra paperwork. The Gatling gun is the crank operated "machine gun". They still make them but they are on the more expensive side. There is even a thing called a gatcrank that attaches to a few different firearms including the AR which allows it to fire at around 600-700 rounds per minute and it's perfectly legal and only costs $60. For comparison the M16 in auto fires 700-800 rpm. This right there shows that it's extremely easy and cheap to get roughly full auto capabilities out of an AR but there are absolutely zero crimes committed with it because automatic fire is absolutely no use to a criminal. Muzzleloaders can be purchased with no paperwork because they aren't classified as a gun. Even a Cannon falls under the classification of a muzzleloader. Suppressors arent legal in all states and require extra paperwork and a tax because they are an NFA item. The movies would have you believe they make the gun silent but that is simply not true. Even a suppressed gun is pretty loud still, they just cut the noise back to a point you don't need hearing protection when shooting. It's a safety item that is classified as dangerous. It's like saying you need to pay an extra tax and pass a more extensive background check to wear a life vest in the ocean, pointless. These are just some of the other fun things we have to enjoy in this hobby/lifestyle besides a semi auto firearm. It's fun and we like it, plus it's our right to get to have these things for protection, hunting, and just to have fun with.

Any firearm can be converted to full auto fire, it just takes work and knowledge to do so. Some easier than others. The AR-15 being an extremely simple firearm, is among one of the easier ones to convert but still not something the average Joe can do. Nobody needs a semi auto firearm for hunting, but like others have said, there are a lot of things in life we don't need but want because they make life easier. A semi auto firearm is very useful though as you may miss or wound an animal. When hunting we want a quick, clean, ethical kill and don't want to see any animal suffer and unfortunately as a human, we can miss our mark and wound something and need a quick follow up shot. I myself muzzleloader hunt for deer and have had to chase down a deer with a knife to finish it because it was so cold my barrel shrunk to the point I couldn't reload and I had wounded it's leg. As for the desire, it's just very fun to plink targets with multiple rounds in succession. It gets expensive with some ammo but man is it a blast. I have seen multiple people who were skeptical about the AR dump a full magazine in a few seconds and they always at least crack a smile. My brother in law recently shot one of my handguns for the first time and was hesitant at first but after a few magazines was really having fun. There is just something about it, like the saying "it's a Jeep thing you wouldn't understand" definitely applies here. The big key word people miss in the second amendment is "infringed". Infringed means to be encroached upon, and making laws to outlaw certain firearms or accessories is infringing. The big problem here is that the vast majority of people are so uneducated on guns that the media and certain government officials use scare tactics to make them more fearful of certain firearms. As someone who knows quite a bit about firearms, it's sad to watch people say we need to outlaw certain things because they look scary or they think it's a "machine gun". There is a good video out there of two guys with a table full of different firearms and they ask people to pick out which ones should be banned and why. All of them said the AR style and black colored ones should be banned but the ones with wood stocks were fine cause those are for hunting. Given they had zero education on firearms, they didn't know that all of them were legal hunting rounds, 22lr, .308, .50 and shotguns. Most of the ones they said to ban were actually chambered in the smaller and less harmful rounds. It all really comes down to safety and firearms are perfectly safe on their own and in the right hands. Only the person holding it can make the mistakes or decision to do something harmful with it. Firearms aren't the problem, people are the problem.

The guy said it will have most or all the brake parts on it still, they are pretty good about giving the correct info at this yard but we'll see. I plan on replacing all the brake parts including the calipers, as well as resealing it before install. Rock Auto has a kit with pads, rotors, and calipers for $130 with no core charge so I'll probably go with that. I'll probably start tearing the axle down right away but not sure how soon I'll get all the parts ordered for it. I'd like to have it in the truck by March but we'll see. I also plan on lowering it while it's apart so it will be a long process.

Just got off the phone with the junkyard, going to pick up a Libby axle and 4 Libby wheels Friday! Was able to get them down to $350 total, more than I wanted to spend but it's about the best option I had.

It's all about the prep, definitely won't be a show quality job but looks pretty darn good if done right. The "automotive grade" spray paints have the UV additives and stuff to help with longevity, still won't last as long as a professional paint job. Comes down to the budget, time, and desired results.

Odd something like that would be painted on, is it possibly a decal with clear coat over it? Assuming it's paint, more than likely it was painted directly over the clear coat so you should be able to get away with some sort of paint removal without damaging the factory paint. I would recommend reapplying clear coat over that area after removal because you will at the very least do some sort of damage to the factory clear coat. You can get Rust-Oleum automotive clear coat in a spray can at Walmart. I'd probably start with a magic eraser and lightly rub just over a single footprint at a time to see what happens. If that doesn't work, work up the chain of cleaners. Hairspray, nail polish remover, brake clean, then into paint strippers. I'd avoid any heavy abrasive pads or sandpaper until the chemicals failed. This is my opinion on how I would do it, I am in no way a professional in this sort of thing. Just giving you ideas.

Looks like it t-boned someone moving at a good pace. The damage is all going toward the passenger side. Quite unfortunate, very clean truck.

I'd really like to know how it managed to get through the door without breaking the glass. It looks like its tempered and shattered but is still on one piece.

Holy crap. I can't imagine being in the apartment.

Correct. There would be a small amount of oil carried up to the top from the chain but not nearly enough to lubricate everything properly.

After some digging around I found the info. For your truck you will want the transmission in 2nd or 3rd gear (park for an auto) and the t-case in neutral. This way the trans won't spin. You are also supposed to stop every 200miles and run the Jeep for a minute or so to lubricate the transfer case and it's recommended by some guys to so more often as they have had issues doing this. To avoid that headache, remove the driveshafts.

The transfercase definitely has a pump in it but the gears do sit in fluid. I'll do some digging for info but I am almost positive I've heard you need to remove the shafts per Chrysler instruction.

I think you are supposed to remove the driveshafts for long tow like that. The transfercase spins with the front tires and without the Jeep running the pump doesn't lubricate the gears properly or something like that. Don't quote me on it but I'm like 95% sure that's the case. I'd do some more research and wait for more definitive responses.

The picture of this truck from 2004 shows a gray dash.

According to the info on the streetcomanche site, it sounds like it really is #25. Originally from Illinois and got sold a few times a while back and this current or maybe the most recent owner restored/modified it and had to sell. Page below with picture from 2004 and more info on it. http://streetcomanches.zohosites.com/mobile/25-of-100.html

That is a good price! It doesn't come with the mounting brackets tho so be sure anyone who orders this one you also get the 97900 mount kit.

Manual swap it! Keep it up, you do great work and you know you'll regret it if you give up on it.

yes 10 1/2.

Ive only have one on my 97+ truck but I'm pretty sure all XJs and MJs have the wiring already there for it. Check to make sure it's not tucked down behind the engine bay harness somewhere.