Dzimm

I have an AlloyUSA chain with omix-ada glides and filter pickup in my 231 and its still working for my DD XJ. I've used 4x4 quite a lot since too. That deal Limeyjeeper offered is pretty good. I paid $80 for just the chain.

I think the seatbelt warning wiring is only a single spade connector since it grounds through the vehicle. I could be wrong though. Do you remember ever unplugging that when removing the carpet?

Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure there is a race or two at an airport out your way. I'll message you when the time comes.

the worst possible thing you can do to a vehicle. Damn that was a mess. Common sense seems to be lacking these days..

Yeah I was surprised at how many other vehicles had the C8.25 in them in the early/mid 2000s. Since the info on them is so limited, I don't know how similar they all are. They are much more similar than I initially thought though. Once I do my write-up on the swap it would be good if we can compile a list of what all has them so part searching can be easier.

We will definitely have to get together sometime this summer. I'm hoping to be starting autocross this year since it will fit into the rules so maybe you could come out for that.

It's like Christmas here! I've been getting parts over the last week or so for the axle and filled a big box of parts that I can hardly lift. Today though , the new tires and the LSD arrived! The LSD is in really good shape, it's used out of a Liberty but was rebuilt by a performance shop with new clutches and Timken bearings. I was going to get one eventually but I decided to pull the trigger on this one because it was only $300 and it came from a Liberty so it has the teeth on it for the speed sensor in the axle. This speed sensor is for the Liberty ABS system but I wanted to maintain it just in case I need it for the turbo setup. I really doubt that I'll need it but just in case I do, I'll have that option. I've never seen a C8.25 trac lok that has the teeth so I felt I just had to buy it. The tires are freakin tiny. They are 2.5" shorter than what's on the truck now which is perfect. They should look decent as they still have some sidewall, but they will get the truck lower to the ground. Contact patch is around 8" while the current tires is only 7". Sidewall will have about 2.5" of exposed rubber.

Its back on the road! Took it out and filled the tires and gas. Drove for about 20 mins and didn't skip a beat. It definitely power steering work as it's leaking pretty good and has a lot of play in the steering. It also could use a good brake bleed but it's fine to drive again.

Next step I would use a voltmeter and check continuity down the wires and make sure that there's actually a connection back to your gauge.

Power seats?

There are aftermarket options available that will work. My truck has some aftermarket master on it and works fine, don't know what it is off the top of my head.

I don't know why but it's really bothering me that this is another mismatched set of wheels... Anyone know if this ever happened from the factory?

You guys must be viewing on a computer screen? On mobile the holes are just black so can't see without zooming completely in.

Good eye! I see that now, we must be seeing the outer-most edge of the wheel in picture 3.

The rears are integral to the B-pillars. The proper way to fix it would be to get new B-pillar trim. If you search junkyards and such you may find something from another vehicle that you could retrofit on there if you don't want to pay for a replacement b-pillar. You may be able to make the front door grills work they would just be much bigger than the hole as JMO413 showed.

It definitely appears to only be 1 with rivets. The left rear wheel in the 1st pics can be seen in pic 3 and doesn't look like it has rivets. I still don't understand how so many people have mixed sets of these wheels. This set looks to be in pretty good shape tho.

Yeah I'll measure what it is currently and when I set it up to see what it was but will set it on the tighter side of the spec range. I figure over time it will wear and loosen up a tad bit.

It may not be a factory key. Does it work for the glove box too?

Pretty much everyone will tell you to do an engine swap haha. I don't think anyone on here has put a turbo on a 4.0l. The info I've been able to find has come mostly from the pirate4x4 forum.

What I was seeing the way to do it was set the backlash spec with the driver's side and then torque the passenger side and measure the backlash to make sure it stayed. I'll have to look into that part a little more.

Thanks guys, I will definitely take measurements and lots of pictures.

I took a gamble tonight.. I've only ever been able to have 2 out of 3 of my Jeeps working. As soon as I fix the 3rd, one of them breaks. They are all 3 now fixed so fingers crossed this time one of them doesn't break... This truck has been sitting in the shop since October and I haven't really touched it. I had ordered a fuel pump and sat on it for a couple weeks and decided to return it and not to mess with it yet because I wasn't fully convinced that it was the fuel pump and it was winter so the truck wouldn't be driven anyway. This last month I've been thinking about it again since spring is coming, and decided that it was more than likely the CPS over the fuel pump. I ordered a Mopar replacement and just installed it tonight. I'm positive that was my issue now because the one that was on it had the wires melted through by the exhaust. It must have been touching and grounding out that night I got stranded. It took a minute to start up because it hasn't been run in 5 months but it's fixed!! After getting to operating temp and reving it up a bit it ticks around the bottom end of cylinder 5 or 6. I'm hoping that it's just a lifter that needs some time to get oil in it again. Tomorrow I hope to get the truck dug out of the shop, since it's buried in the back, and do some test driving!

I personally wouldn't, especially for a vehicle that isn't running. They could say it only needs a fuel pump all they want but you never know. That always makes me weary because why wouldn't you just put a fuel pump in it to get it running and sell for a lot more? What do they want cash wise for the K20 and what do they typically go for? Ultimately come down to what you want to do but with the info you've given so far, and I know very little to nothing about the K20, I wouldn't. But again that's just me.

I've actually been thinking about running it remote. Either on the passenger side or where the stock airbox goes, all depending on where I have room for piping. I don't really want to fumble around with the manifold nor cut a hole in the hood. Once I get the turbo I can figure out where it will fit and really get it planned out.

Looks good! I love a clean engine bay.