Dzimm

Today was a good day. Diff is filled up and driveshaft is installed. Ran into a slight issue that will need addressed. With the springs laying flatter and on the overload leaves, it seems to have rotated the pinion enough that I think I may need some shims. Definitely still driveable as is though. Temporary bump stops made from hockey pucks. Have been talking with 70barracuda and getting some great advice. Thanks to his research I will be trying some 2000 Nissan Altima sway bar links tomorrow, they look like they should work. I should have time tomorrow to get the brake dist block in and links on, maybe even a test drive if it isn't raining too bad!

Thanks!

Thanks! The tires gave me 1.5" and the springs I estimate to be around 2"-2.5" for a total drop of 3.5"-4". I need to get good height numbers for a stock truck because I lost my notes with the measurements on them. I will say it's wayyy lower than my blue truck. Top of the bed rail on the red truck is about equal to the top of the fender flare. It will be funny to see them sitting side by side.

Thanks! Definitely hard to find, I got pretty lucky. Really contemplating trying to reproduce a handful out of fiberglass but won't be cheap. My math says it would be over $200-$300 just to build a mold.

The truck went on all 4 tires with the new suspension for the first time last night. I've got some little things to work on yet but it's so close to driving!

No need for additives. Loosen it up, get the belt aligned on all pulleys and get the belt good and tight. It shouldn't move once it's tight, although it may have been riding off center of a pulley for a long time without you knowing and that's just where it wants to ride now.

Glad you are okay. Hope everything turns out to be fine and it doesn't become recurring. I had been curious about your lack of posts on some radio threads especially. Get well soon!

Wow, you'd never know the panel behind it had rusted to nothing.

I put it in my 90. I believe the difference to be the firewall/cowl area. I think the 91+ Jeeps have a deeper cowl area because when I cut the area according to the template, the bottom of the cut was flush with the bottom of the cowl so I had to squish and kind of force the cone filter in the hole because it didn't have extra clearance for the bottom of the filter. I don't care because it's still sealed and you can't see the slightly squished filter, still worked just fine.

Have some. Couldn't get the springs compressed far enough to get them out. Also had issues with the compressors bolts getting hung up on the knuckle. I even did the jack up opposite side of the axle method to no avail. I was down to either cut them or take everything off the axle and I'm too lazy for all that, plus I've got too many sets of stock coil springs in my spare parts pile.

As Pete mentioned, cowl intakes are super nice and hidden away but the kits are kind of pricey. I love mine though. Look up Thor if you are interested in this route.

That can't be a real thing... Well then again..

Got the damn coils springs out.. I've done this twice before without issue, this truck fought me the whole way. Ended up cutting the springs to get them out because I wasn't about to take the control arms and sway bar off too. Maybe 2wd springs are taller . Took so long this is all I got done tonight.

I got mine from pitstopusa. Its steel but was only $170 after tax. That shaft happened to be the correct size and happened to have a free shipping offer going on, I just got lucky.

What's the voltage on the battery with the engine running? If it's 14+V your alternator is fine.

Wow.. with that much Bondo I think it would have been cheaper to get new sheetmetal.

Damnit Disney! Why you gotta be like that!??

Definitely not safe to breathe but I don't think it'll kill ya, at least it didn't kill me... It's a seam sealant.

Driveshaft showed up, ordered Sunday and arrived on Tuesday. It's the perfect size except I found out I need a 1310 to 1330 conversion u-joint for the axle. The Libby axle uses a 1330 joint, which I wasn't aware of. I've got one ordered and on the way. Got the sway bar mounted up. The existing frame holes are in the perfect spot to bolt the top mount above it and access the nut. The links lean backwards just slightly but it's plenty acceptable. I put the shocks back on for now. I'll be ordering some new ones soon but these will do for now. I'll be moving onto the front end now. Have to change the brake distribution block, coil springs, tires, and paint the airdam. That leaves put the driveshaft in, bleed the brakes, and fill the rear diff and it'll be on the road again!

These are cool. Ive only ever seen one in person.

Loosen the adjuster a bit and you can adjust belt placement, then tighten it back up. The serpentine belt needs to be really tight. With moderate force you should only be able to twist it 1/4 of the way over itself by hand is about the best way to measure the correct tightness.

Oh I see now, this is the bottom looking up at the carpet. Yeah you gotta pull the carpet. The topside is going to a million times worse. The carpet holds the moisture against the metal, under the carpet is always worse.

Yeah I'd cut that upper layer out to see what's under it. Through that hole it looks to have more rust and the underside of where you've hit with the grinder will be rusty.

any chance you can send me some closer pictures of where the stripe goes over and across the hood? My autocross truck is getting the full Archer livery and I haven't found good reference for the angles/location of the stripe over the hood. I've had my 97+ truck out a couple times. A few weeks ago the wife and I took a cruise up to see the bison and around the prarie. This weekend I made a few trips out to the farm to haul some dirt for the new raised garden beds at the house.

There is never a good time, especially a thumb. Thanks! No I haven't but definitely something to consider. The leaves are a lot more flexible now, at least up and down, but it's sitting pretty much on the overload leaf so hopefully that will prevent some of the wrap since it's so thick. I'll have to see what it drives like. I'm also running into the issue of running out of space on the axle tubes with the brake lines, ubolts, and sway bar. If I do it if have to look for something to bolt under the spring plate I think.