Dzimm

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Door-Latch-Strikers-Assembly-w-Screws-Pair-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-1997-2001-/401387236182?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item5d748b2b56%3Ag%3ArIkAAOSw9LJZjHsP&_trkparms=pageci%253A387e7d77-8524-11e7-8dd7-74dbd1806e7a%257Cparentrq%253Afc5e55c115d0ab61b17f7f8cfffff9d6%257Ciid%253A1 Waste of time to find something that works. These are cheap enough and free shipping.

Of course it can be done. If you want to go 97+ I would just go all out (if you piece it together here and there, you'll wish you had just done it all at once). If you find a 97+ donor XJ, it will have all the parts for your 4wd swap and the 97+ swap for a fraction of the cost of doing it individually. There are some good threads on 4wd swaps and for partial and full 97+ swaps, you should check out Alexia's 97+ build for sure (it's the best documented one ever). I have a 97+ swap thread as well you could check out. As for the atv you traded, you'll never miss it once your Jeeps are on the road and trails. If you were close I'd be over with a case of beer and pre-greased hands. Your off to a good start!

How are these coming along? Have you received your first batch yet?

The CPS can be intermittent. Especially if it became susceptible to heat. Sometimes it will start warm but most of the time it will have to fall below the threshold of heat before it will start. Either way it's important to test all the sensors given the range of issues they can cause. If you are going to replace the injectors, definitely do as cruiser said, don't waste the money on factory 1 holes. But, it won't start and run rough....... Right. I was more so using the CPS as an example, it's more likely something else but you know how these things can be. Definitely seems like one thing is the problem but turns out it's something completely different.

The CPS can be intermittent. Especially if it became susceptible to heat. Sometimes it will start warm but most of the time it will have to fall below the threshold of heat before it will start. Either way it's important to test all the sensors given the range of issues they can cause. If you are going to replace the injectors, definitely do as cruiser said, don't waste the money on factory 1 holes.

Yeah sounds like a sensor to me. Run through the checks for sensors both while cold and after it runs and warms up, preferably when you are having trouble getting it started. Just remember, whatever you do, don't just throw parts at it. That gets expensive and frustrating.

The clicking sounds speradic, but also too rythmic to be shrinking metal. It also clicks regardless of whether the engine was shut off warm or cold. Thanks for the idea about pulling the spark plug, I will try that. The exhaust manifold will click and shrink no matter how long the engine runs. It heats up within only a few seconds and can sound somewhat rhythmic when shrinking. The fuel injectors will for sure be a rhythm though. I'm with Cruiser that it's probably just the exhaust manifold making the noise but it's worth a look into the injectors just in case. I have had issues similar to yours with my 98 XJ not starting after it had run. It was so inconsistent when it happened though so idk what finally fixed it. I know that some sensors like the cps can be affected by heat. It's possible that heat soak is causing a sensor to act up after you run it.

How long do they click after it is shut off? To test if it is being flooded, drive it around then shut it off and pull a spark plug. If they really are continuing to inject and flooding it, the plug would be covered in gas. If they are still firing you may also be able to see it by shining a light in the spark plug hole. Also does the clicking have a pattern or is it speratic? All vehicles click and pop when shut off because of the metals shrinking and fluid dripping. Your screwdriver may have just amplified those sounds.

What rubber seal? THe XJ and MJ windshield is glued in. 97+ XJ window seals are rubber. Like stated above the glued in one's break pretty much every time. The 97+ XJ windshields can be removed without breaking the glass but it ruins the rubber seal. I didn't see a year on the donor so I guess when I read it I assumed it was a 97+ donor.

Yeah you can. You'll need a new rubber seal for it though. When you take the seal from the XJ it will probably rip.

That's a good idea but a non lighted visor runs at least $200 then the lenses and light kit run another $100. At $300 I'd rather get one already completed because I don't want to take the chance of screwing up a $200 visor when trying to put holes in it.

Thanks this really helps narrow it down. - The roof mount is out of the question since it's too big and mpg is bad enough as it is. - I was looking at roll bars today and may eventually build one, but for now that isn't really in the cards. It is an option I really like tho. - I really don't want it under the bed and quite frankly I think my factory spare may have fused with the bracket at this point (this is really where all the rust is on this truck). - In my mind, the only option I see in the current situation is to mount it to the back of the bed right behind the drivers seat. The down side is that it will block some of my view and take some bed space. I think my best bet is to get the tire and then figure out where to put it. For now my spare just lays in the bed so worst case, that's how the big tire will sit for a little while.

Passengers side door. The top corner is to high. Just need to fiddle with it more to get it right I had the same problem with mine. I adjusted it to fit right and it now has settled and is causing issues with the latch. Gotta bring it back up slightly. If I were you I'd set it just slightly higher than it should be and it should settle into position after a few weeks.

I like the idea of a roof rack but with a Lund visor idk how well that would work. Any idea what gas mileage comes to with a lifted MJ and a huge spare tire and rack on the roof?

How in the world did you manage that? I don't really want mine under there but I'm curious.

Anyone have a good way to mount an oversized spare without taking up much bed space? Currently my spare just lays in the bed. I will be getting 33s soon so under the bed isn't an option. I'm thinking of putting it up against the back of the cab behind the drivers seat. Anyone mount theirs here? How'd you do it? Let's see those pictures!

What kind of alignment issues are you having with the doors? Does the rear part of the door close all the way? If not you need to widen the mounting hole of the stricker to suck it in more on the b-pillar. If it is flush on the back, then just play with the shims up front. It sucks but you'll get it eventually.

A different world it is. I don't trust any other drivers enough to drive without a rear bumper nowadays.

I've never heard of anyone trying that. I'm interested to see if this works. It would make this modification much easier if it does.

No need for a grinder. Just take a torx set with you and remove the bolts holding the 97+ striker. You'll need to elongate the top hole a little for the door to close right and just drill out the lower hole on the MJ. Then weld in a nut or use a rivnut.

The things some people come up with.... I'm really curious as to what that trooper had to say to the crazy wiggle wagon.

Yeah he's a good guy but I decided that I didn't like the lights he uses on them. His are a smaller dome type light Just on the front edge of the visor. And for about the same price as a used Lund, I'd rather get exactly what I want.

Yeah shim the bottom of the door to try and get a better angle up top. Also the new striker makes a big difference. I was unable to get my passenger door to ever sit perfect so I just decided to deal with it slightly sticking out on the top rear and bottom front. Still seals and looks normal.

I only ordered 25 of the Jeep amc ones. If I keep getting interest I could do a run of just "jeep" decals, but for right now all I have are the ones with the amc decal.. When they are in let me know. I'll take 5 of the AMC/Jeep ones for sure!

Where? :dunno: Oops forgot. Sorry, here it is. http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-3