cruiser54

Get it. This ain't rocket science to fix. Beat him down further on the price.

Check out this thread for your issues: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

Could you route the application vacuum that went to the CAD to just the light?

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 07/24/2012

Let me know who your doctor is. I wanna get my meds from him, too. LOL

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36058-86-rough-idle-fix-25/

Spray some throttle body cleaner around the intake and throttle body hoses. There was even a TSB for the hoses. And on a 2.5, it's an ISC motor meaning Idle Speed Control. Works completely different from an IAC which is an Idle Air Controller. An ISC controls linkage/butterfly while an IAC controls an air passage inside a throttle body.

There is a connector up near the air cleaner. 10 pins. Very critical to the operation of blinkers and markers. It is referred to in this: I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

Did you get those 3 or 4 ground wires back on at the dipstick tube stud where all the fresh paint has been scraped off?

On the 2.5 it's an ISC motor, not an IAC. The ISC moves the throttle linkage and butterfly. The IAC on a 4.0 opens and closes an air passage while the butterfly stays closed. Great idea on checking the intake manifold bolts. O2 sensor wouldn't be a bad idea either as stated.

Unless it has to do with the cap, rotor, or coil wire, no. The sync generator inside the dizzy is for firing the injectors sequentially only. Has no effect on ignition.

There's a product available at automotive paint stores called RustMort.

That can't happen.

Oil Eater from Costco. Great stuff.

Is the heat going out the defroster vents?

There is no choke. Do you have spark?

Concidence.

Be sure to remove the bolt holding the braided cable to the firewall. Scrape the firewall to bare metal and then reattach the cable.

First place to look is that group of vacuum hoses near the throttle body. They're usually split. Also make sure all your intake/exhaust manifold bolt are present and accounted for and tight.

How low did you let your tank get before gassing up?

Try to stay with 89 or 90 harness if possible. There were some slight differences. 90 would be best.

It's the fuel pump ballast resistor and all it does is reduce the voltage to the fuel pump after the Jeep is started so the pump will be quiet.

Knock sensor will NEVER cause a driveability issue. They rarely fail and usually only need replacing because the wires got pulled out or they got smashed by someting. A failed MAP sensor will cause extremely rich running.

If the Power/Comfort switch is unplugged, you are in the Comfort mode. Not good. To restore Power mode, run a jumper wire between the tan wire and the striped wire in the 3-wire connector for the switch. Leave the black one alone. Here's how to check the YPS. Be sure to use the instructions for the square plug on the trans side. RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. MANUAL TRANSMISSION: RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have only a flat three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body and it provides data input to the ECU. It has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles, as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES: Check the square four-wire connector side of the TPS. If you have ENGINE ISSUES check the flat three-wire connector side of the TPS. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. Revised 09-22-2012

Could not be related problems. Have you tried rotating the headlight switch knob?