cruiser54

Easy fix. 53007563AB from the dealer for less than $5. Use easy to find filters. Peel the M20 X 1.5 sticker off and put 5281090 filter in it's place with a Sharpie. Better yet, change your own oil and filter. Keep those pimple faced little putzes at the quick oil change places away from your Jeep.

Meaning?

I say again: Friends don't let friends use Fram oil filters. True story.

If Renix had an OBD rating it would be 0. LOL.

What you're looking for is a TCC switch mounted up near the pivot of the pedal. It's white plastic and has nothing to do with the standard brake light switch. Lt Blu wire and Blu/Trace.......Blk on the other terminal.. I wish I was savvy enough to post photos. Can you? If so, PM me with your email address and I'll send you the photo.

C201 and C202 are the connectors at the ECU. They're the ones outlined in Post 9.

Shorter is just fine. I allowed my 22 year old neighbor do the one in the photo. Kept it simple and him involved.

Yes. Just the fact that the system can operate optimally, as designed is good. My observation on the O2 sensor is a good example of before and after.

Interesting idea. Your choice on the effort.

Renix ECUs go braindead every time you shut the vehicle off. No need to reset.

I never said it was. You just haven't seen what I've seen. I have evidence by using the factory scanner that although the vehicle seems to run just fine, the C101 is altering the signals to and from the ECU. The Renix system is adaptable enough to still run "good". A simple tap on the C101, or gentle wiggling of the wires surrounding it, not unlike hitting a bump in the road, will most always change a reading. Most all very important engine management signals and grounds go through that crappy connector. And I live in Arizona!! No rust, moisture, corrosion.... What about the guys in the rust belt, South, near the ocean? Only gonna be worse. A perfect example of this is the 87 I just did the elimination on. I was ready to condemn the slowly responding O2 sensor but decided to wait until the C101 elimination was done. After it was done, the O2 sensor was switching like it was new. And, the guy who owns the Jeep said it has never run this good before. I've seen the same with IAT, CTS, MAP and TPS readings. Hopefully we'll get some responses back to this thread from those who perform the procedure.

Post 27.....

This is a VERY unfair comparison, because the first photo does not show an undisturbed C101. It shows a rat's nest of loose wires after someone has ripped them out of the C101. Actually, what's very unfair is for you to Pooh-pooh the C101 elimination because you got hosed in the late 1980s. Evidence has shown, and supported the C101 elimination. I think you need to get over being butt-hurt over 25 years ago and snap back into reality based on emperical evidence to support the facts here.

I KNOW it helps. I've SEEN it help. I've MONITORED the results. The sensor ground upgrade is actually part of the C101 elimination. How can anyone go wrong?

You're fortunate that you've had no KNOWN issues with your existing C101. Sure the con job isn't tainting your view of this effective and many times necessary repair? And maybe that I was a Service Manager at a dealership for 12 years? I NEVER did the kind of stuff that some putz did to you.

Interesting. I'm not surprised given the issues I've observed over the years.

27 trumps your fanaticism!! It can be done to look original. I don't think Uncle Bob will ever kick the bucket!!!!!!!! The flair varies. When you do the C101, see if it changes.

True story. Thanks for bringing that up.

You're very fortunate. I still have all the TSBs from that era and I've never seen a TSB on the elimination of the C101. There was a suggestion on cleaning it though and I'm not sure that was published or just a good idea passed around. I have witnessed the loss of signal, especially ground through the C101. My experience on numerous of my family and friends Jeeps, along with the results posted up by others on forums who have done the cleaning/elimination has been totally different. I was able to do before and after readings on sensors with my DRB and see the difference in readings, O2 sensor activity, driveability, starting, and cold running. If you are suggesting that this procedure is some kind of Hocus Pocus and are discouraging others from undertaking it based on your limited experience with it, you are doing them a disservice.

I have updated Post 2 in my tips to reflect the highlighted changes. Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector. That said, the cleaning described below is a real MUST DO right off the bat. But, I strongly advocate eliminating the C101 at some point by following the procedure with photos in Post 27. Soldering skills are required and it takes about an hour. The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the ¼” bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together. Revised 05-03-2014

Less than 2. Read post 27 and see if you're comfortable doing that. I've seen incredible improvements doing that. One is an oxygen sensor I was monitoring with the factory scan tool and was gonna condemn for it being lazy. Something inside said to wait until the C101 elimination was done. Guess what? O2 sensor was reading like new..Hmmmmm.

Timing chain issues are EXTREMELY RARE in the 4.0s. Do a compression test and that will tell you, as suggested. How's thar vacuum line I mentioned early on?

Click on the link in my signature and do posts 1, 5, and 8. You're testing the wrong side of the TPS. Long crank times and a bit of idle flare is pretty normal.

These are made here in my town and sold all over the world. Neat stuff: http://adventuretrailers.com/

This tripped the old memory switch bringing back an issue we had at the dealership on an 86 4 banger. The guts of the catalytic converter had melted into a softball sized lump and would blow to the back of the cat and plug the exhaust. Symptoms were backfiring, low power. Then the softball must have rolled around a bit until the exhaust pressure pushed it to the back again. What a bear to find.