cruiser54

Anything else not work? Turn signals? Wipers? Radio?

How many bolts hold the throttle body on?

Here's a few other things. We don't need OBD 1 or 2. We have the REM now. And before that had simpler ways to diagnose stuff. And, there's this: HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had a 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix. That’s 20% more air available through the HO throttle body. The HO also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? It’s only a 4% horsepower increase….. The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present manifold using the Renix head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. __________________ And always remember this: The HO was just an effort by Chrysler's engineers to piss on AMC's fire hydrant claiming it as theirs. The same engineers who said the 4.0 would be dropped soon after the 1987 buyout and that the 4 cylinder was doomed also. Hell, they ended up using the 4 cylinder in their beloved POS Dakota!! The 4.0 lasted at least 18 more years!! Keep in mind I lived through this stuff. I worked at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992.

I thought that would be impossible.

Excellent responses^^. I agree. Hey guys, it's not really an issue, but you should be snagging ECUs from Renix Jeeps in the junkyard. Get an 89 or 90 ECU for your personal Jeep and save your old one as a backup would be great. But having a spare of any Renix ECU would be nice. Start snagging TCUs also!! 88 to 90 are best. 87 had a clunky shifting program.

One thing at a time.

Hold on. Did you do the brake adjustment with the wheels bolted on?

You need to spend more time on my website. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 131 COMMENTS EDIT Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

You are correct.

This for one thing. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAP OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 76 COMMENTS EDIT This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2)

I don't understand the question.

Bruce, did you ever adjust the shoes manually?

Good result. Keep driving it. You know CPS has nothing to do with high idle, right? And, that your CPS can be tested easily?

I've always converted to 134a.

Get 134a fittings, some 134a with dye in it and the correct PAG oil for the conversion. The system will need to be evacuated.

THIS^^

Again, a budget and needlessly swapping in an unknown used trans not common to the vehicle? That 3.4 isn't gonna rip the engine mounts out or twist driveshafts. Keep it simple.

Nope. Not necessary to replace all that stuff.

THIS^^^ Don't drink the AC and Parts guys kool-aid.

https://www.crcindustries.com/products/freeze-off-174-super-penetrant-11-5-wt-oz.html

Yes. Find and fix the leak. Then do a simple 134a conversion.

Ever snugged up your flexplate to torque converter bolts? I consider that preventive maintenance. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-fix-flexplate-knocking-125547/

What's the issue? Nuts hard to remove? If so, spray that area with Freeze-Off first. You may be pleasantly surprised.

You may have a collapsed lifter or a flat cam lobe then.

Bent pushrod?