cruiser54

Does it start and run?

Use the grommet. Remove the broken piece of plastic from inside it. Put a new plastic line into the grommet and use contact cement or the like to get the 2 to bond together.

How will he know if he had excessive wind noise unless he tries them.

Thanks for taking one for the team!!

Below the coolant bottle.

I'm guessing....

I left in October 1992. I don't remember leak problems......

You probably have wind noise from the driver's seat cushion.

I'm interested in that. Don, order some and let us know how they work.

Tip 15 in my link below, but here it is for ya: I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013

OK, thanks for the direction. I was reading into this and feel it's about darn time I got one of those gauges... so I will order one and do that test when I get the gauge. I'll try the MAP sensor test, do I spray down the actual sensor itself up by the firewall? Or just the vacuum line? When I get to the 2-port rubber stopper at the throttle body, do I spray that down too? Concentrate on the line end to end, fittings and all.

Check your fuel pressure with a gauge at idle. Should be 31 PSI with the vacuum hose connected and 39 when it's disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator. At idle, spray carb cleaner all over the MAP sensor to throttle body hose. What happens?

Get a 703-1396 cap for your bottle from Napa while you're at it.

Interesting.

For future reference:

The write up is aimed at 4.0s. On yours, each sensor has it's own ground AT the ECU. Don't splice anything together.

EXACTLY what my buddy's wife said about the FJ. Got a Wrangler as a result of owning the FJ and having poor visibility.

Why not TEST it first?

Did you scrape the attaching point for the braided strap on the firewall to bare metal?

2 more things to do. At idle, spray around where the MAP sensor tube connects to the throttle body. Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the pressure is 39 with the vac hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and 31 with it connected. If you don't have access to a gauge, there is a way to test what we're looking for. Do the pressure deal last.

AND the flywheel.

I have a complete set of the Napa shocks still in the box. Sensa-Trac maybe?

No. Replace the fan clutch on the mechanical fan. (That's the viscous hub that bolts to the water pump, and to which the fan blade is bolted. This^^^ first.

You're the guinea pig!! Man, that got to you fast!!