cruiser54

How so, we are not increasing output over what the headlight was designed for, it's not shining brighter by General vehicle standards ... It's just finally seeing the 12V it was originally supposed to, and what most other vehicle supply. We're not making it so a 35W bulb puts out 55W (by increasing voltage) we are making a 35W bulb that used to output 20W of light output, finally output closer to 35W, finally. And preventing fires in the process. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk I agree with rockfrog.

Good one!! The harness costs less than a headlight switch and is easier to install. Plus, even stock headlight bulbs will shine 35% brighter.

The stock one? Because it is of small gauge wire and runs through the switch. Lots of resistance in the circuit and the switch has the breaker in it.

Here's how to avoid that: http://cruiser54.com/?p=65

This is the way it should be.

Let's make something real simple real complicated.

I will.

Excellent advice^^. The Bosch is different but has simple adapters with it to make it fit easily. As for the fuel pump ground, I would just perform the procedure in the link below no matter what. Every Comanche and Cherokee owner should do it. http://cruiser54.com/?p=249

Not sounding like an @$$. Perfectly good suggestion.

It's probably not the tank being dirty. The pump has a screen on it.

Here's the problem: Nobody but Bosch makes a good pump. Airtex is the worst and they're now making the pumps for Carter. That PFP or whatever from O'Reilly is a huge piece of garbage.

Well stated, and true.

The Idle speed actuator on the throttle body not retracting?

What brand spark plugs are you using? Anything gimmicky? Your O2 sensor test is not a good one to rely on. Do the NTK O2 sensor.

Do these and see what happens: http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 http://cruiser54.com/?p=35 http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

You just need the white plastic pieces?

Yup. And if there's a bad ground, the brown wire on the ignition switch, along with the switch itself, tends to fry.

Try what Eagle suggests first. If that's all working well, do this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

Thanks for the update.

You're giving them too much credit I think. I'd say there's a 50% chance any given Dorman product will even fit, and then if it does I'd give it a 20% chance of it lasting more than a year. I'd take my chances on untested junkyard parts rather than new Dorman junk. Unless they just take "failed" OEM NSSes, clean them out, and sell them as new. And even then I'm sure Dorman would find a way to screw it up. I've never understood why there would ever be a need to replace an AW4 NSS under any normal circumstances. They look intimidating enough but it's just a set of contacts on a wiper. Just clean it out every so often and you're golden. I've never, ever seen one failed, just full of crud. For $5 a pop I completely understand why people would buy them just to have, but I've never seen where someone's actually needed to replace one. They're made in Taiwan. The reason many folks replace them is that they break them taking them off.

Here's a photo I took today. The tip of the CPS is a good 1/4" from the flexplate ring.

Hummm, sounds kinda too good to be true... I hope its real. I ordered a few. I have them in my hand , they are real . woohoo!!!!!

We might be in the stone age but we've kept the fire burning......

Sorry, I don't.

Have you checked out the connectors by the trans dipstick? One gray ond one black. Usually fairly corroded inside for some reason. They're the information superhighway for TCU signals.