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G O B

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About G O B

  • Rank
    Jeeper

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Texas
  1. At heart I am a MOPAR purist- BUT the old nail head Buick motor found in Land Rovers is 1/2 the external size and weight of a 318. Should end up about the same weight OR LESS than the stock 4.0.
  2. 217,000+ on the '88, Closed system - no over heating in Texas. Lower radiator hoses cause most overheating, as they collapse under heat when the spring rusts out. A tight system with a good fan clutch solid hoses and tank should cool very well. Timing, lean fuel conditions and dirty air filters are common causes also.
  3. Bulbs and sockets. Check for the proper feed directly at the contact in the sockets. Check for ground at the socket shell. Use new bulbs. If this is not the problem, work forward from there.
  4. 'Leaky' injectors or pressure regulator will cause a flooded condition on hot starts. I changed the pressure regulator on mine and it cured the problem. There is also a shut down relay that presets the IAC, make sure that it is there and working.
  5. Find a plug to go in a hose, that will seal one end airtight. Fill the hose with gas and plug the end. Put the unplugged end in the tank. Put the plugged end in a container LOWER than the tank, when you pull the plug the hose will siphon.
  6. Engines make a varnish that can make lifters 'sticky'. I use Marvel Mystery oil in the winter oil change, to clean it out. This stuff works! Use a full quart, Run it for at least 1,000 miles to clean out older motors. Especially necessary after any incidence of over heating, as that causes heavy varnish in the motor, especially the top end.
  7. Is the oil level in the trans OK? Most likely it is the hydo throw out bearing. Try bleeding it before replacing it,
  8. January of last year, we relocated from Maryland to Texas. Most of what I owned was either sold (even at fire sale prices most did not sell and was junked or scrapped ). Best thing I have done in years! Now I have no shop to work in (hopefully not a permanent condition), but I can comfortably live on my pension here. In MD I would be broke in 10 years or less. Hope your relocation works out for you, mine sure has!
  9. The rod that goes to the arm was missing on mine. Found a perfect replacement from a commercial air damper. These should be available at any large AC contractor. The replacement is 1./4-20 USS not metric. The metric hole on the axle can be tapped to fit or drilled. Brakes work so much better!
  10. Good build, and YES some of us are reading!
  11. FNG here, call me Grumpy. My MJ is NOT pretty. It has led a tough life. Got her off the 'net for $400 . It was sitting under a tree in a self store, with a flat tire, and windows open. The bed was full of some ladies treasures, leaves, and a foot of water. No water in cab, because driver side floorboard was rusted away. Got her home, cleaned her up, had the flat fixed(rusty rim) bled the clutch - and have been running her ever since. Pulled the manifolds and trued them, new fel-pro gaskets. New vacuum tree, new valve cover gaskets. New waterpump, made a new piece to adjust the belt (the little block with threads and a hole at 90*). Hoses, belts etc .E brake cable, Made a boot for the Pukegeot from a glove..... Moved to Texas last year, and she made inspection. Cleared 2 1/3 acres with her, hauled a yard of gravel a couple times. Recently replaced ALL the relays. The Bosh style relays are easy, but the starter relay most sell is worthless. Found a Standard brand that is made like the origional. Clutch finally went out, had the front hitch installed while it was there (Just Jeeps in Austin). Gas tank is leaking so just ordered a tank,pump, and straps fro JCW they had the right Bosh pump. When I finally get a new 'puter I will be able to post pics.
  12. My 88 Pioneer long bed has no AC. The idler is just a casting to duplicate the compressor , with an idler. Great place to put an air compressor or a 200A alternator for charging a camper battery. If you just want to ditch AC, leave the old compressor there.
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