LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Since I hear via the grapevine that some of you are dying to know (Wade!)... IT'S A BOY!!! Caleb Paul was born Sunday night at 10:47PM. He weighed 7lbs 12oz and was 20" long. Both Rebecca and Caleb are doing well. Rebecca did great being in labor almost 24 hours. No major complications and everything during the labor process went fairly well. We came home Wed. morning and are just trying to get settled back in after we haven't slept since Friday. Here are a few pics. He did ride in an XJ on the way home and seemed to like it! I've included a photo of him in his carseat while in the Jeep. :D

I think he's refering to having the TC in 4low (thus the low range) but not having the front axle engaged. If he perm. locked it he would loose that function. If my memory serves me correct the vac. disco does require constant vac. pressure to stay over to keep it locked. It's not much but I think it does need the constant pressure. The other line does help push it the other way, but I think thats simply to make sure it does disengage.

Actually there are three tie bolts per side that do go through the frame with backing plates for these brackets. And the drivers side bracket incorporates the steering box bolts. They are solid. One improvement would be to weld a piece of box channel across the front to tie the two brackets together. I think MJeff suggested that in a previous post. I was referring to the rear tie-in. The front 2 only go threw a very thin sandwiched piece of metal, the 3rd one goes threw the "frame" on the pass side and only into the steering box on the drivers side. The extra bolt I was referring to is further back (see photo). Photo is of the C4x4 winch bumper mount but they are identical as far as the mounting goes. And here is the photo of the side support brace (L bracket) I keep refering to that the C4x4 hooks have that not many other brands do. It helps keep the bracket from bending during side pulls. You can also see in this photo what the front 2 bolts actually go threw. Thier simply is no support there without the added side bracket that c4x4 offers.

Those don't tie into the rear good enough for my liking. I just don't think that the mounting setup is the best. They need the rear frame tie-in that goes all the way threw like others (c4x4 and factory ones) have.

X2!! I love my C4X4 brackets/hooks. I have bent them slighty, but thats just from hitting rocks with them. I'd buy them again if I had to choose again. Great (cheaper) alternative to a full bumper. So then you can't use a bumper with c4x4 brackets? Yes you can use any factory bumper and 95% of any aftermarket bumpers with the C4x4 brackets.

Don't get anything but c4x4 brackets. Everything else does not have the side supports and WILL bend if pulled via the side at all. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=90

I run CSF 3-cores in all our Jeeps and have been very happy with them.

I've manually locked them over without issues on probably at least 5 of my rigs in the past. The only thing is your driveshaft will now spin while driving (due to the tires rolling) instead of not turning. I've not seen any difference in gas mileage. Here are some photo's showing what you do to manually keep it over. Torn Apart (ignore washers, they are not part of the original assembly) With a nut over the rod to act as a spacer (nut is directly to the left of the fork in the pic). One thing I will say is you want it over as far to the right (in the above pic for reference) as you can get it. Just because you put a few spacers behind the fork does not mean you'll keep it manually engaged. The further to the right you can get it the better.

The spring perches on the XJ are not the correct width for the MJ. So either way your going to have to cut the perches off and weld new one's on. You can get bolt on kits for spring over if you don't want to weld. As for axle wrap; get a longer set of perches and they help prevent it.

Mustang rims works, you just have to open up the bore on the rears (I believe) a bit to get them to fit. We just took a dremel tool and clearanced them just a tad on a local member's rig. Not my fav. rim by any means, but they were free for him...

I'm pretty sure he's a member here....

Got the PM notification, no PM in my inbox though. So I'm assuming that someone sent me a PM and decided to delete it after the fact they sent it... :roll:

I received 2 PM notifications this morning but when I go check my PM's I have no new ones. Is it possible that someone sent me a PM than decided to delete it after they sent it?

I don't know about going up. It's easy to go down with it as you can easily make a little bracket but going up may be another story. I just don't know if thier is enough room to go up an inch. The adjustment is on the top, so that "may" hit the tunnel. Plus you run into issues like this (photo below) if you try to push it up. The stupid thing comes out of the mount. I guess the only way is to try and see if yours works. I guess as a last results you can go with the Novak SK2X setup. :brows:

The D30 and D44 yokes are the same; the D35 if my memory is a bit different and the yokes will not interchange. I've heard of people drilling out the yokes before and than switching to the straps. I'm just not real fond of that procedure as I think it'll weaken them to much and the amount of metal left just isn't enough.

Don't get any with poly bushings; you'll hate yourself down the road. I had a set of poly bushing mounts and I even tried to "break them in", but after 6 months I gave them away and went with a set of the MORE ones (rubber). The vibration is just unbearable (and I'm used to driving vehicle's that shouldn't be allowed to be driven on the road due to the vast amount of mods done to them); I just couldn't take it anymore.

We felt it here in Indiana.

YOU'RE WRONG! Here I've made another video that is as clear as day proving that YOU'RE WRONG! http://www.jeeptv.com/video/5531 The front and rear driveshafts are NOT locked together when the TC in in (N). Simple as that! Watch the above video; as it proves that they are not locked together. Also I've disproved everything else thats been stated incorrectly in this thread in the above 2 video's. Did you watch those?!? In the above video I am turning the rear driveshaft as it would be as it was rolling down the road; keep a close eye as to what the front out (front driveshaft does while I turn the rear when the TC in in (N). I'd really like for you to tell me what it's doing please... I have to ask, with your logic what is the purpose of the CAD than? Why did they even design it if as you say the driveshaft will spin anyways? It's purpose is to keep the driveshaft from spining while driving down the road. If as you say the 2 are locked together than why with the CAD undone does the driveshaft not spin? And to mvusse... I'm going to assume that you did not have your TC in (N) fully. As shown above in the video I've proved that they are not connected; so the only way the front still spun is that you had your TC in 4wd (either high or low).

The D30 and the D44 share the same yoke. I believe that the D44's found in old Fords have the strap yokes in them and will bolt right upto the Jeep D30 and D44. D30 in an XJ with the strap yokes.

It's not because of your TC. It will still spin if a) you have a non-CAD axle or B) if your CAD is not functioning properly and it's locked the stub shaft to the main shaft. This will only cause your driveshaft to spin simply because your tires are moving as well. Since nobody here seems to believe me I took the liberty to PROOVE myself without a doubt to show you all. 1) When the Transfer Case in in (N) the rear output (rear driveshaft) or the front output (front driveshaft) does NOT turn. Thus stating that even with the front tires off the ground on a tow dolly the rear wheels do NOT have to be off the ground. Yes the rear driveshaft will continue to spin but it is simply because the wheels are turning. The transfer case is "free spooling" and it does not also turn the front driveshaft. I've made a movie to prove it. You can see it by clicking the following link. http://www.jeeptv.com/video/5494 2) The tranny even if in drive will not turn the TC outputs (front or rear) if the TC in in (N). It also proves that with the tranny in a gear (manual) or in park (auto) that their is NO CONNECTION between the 2. I've made a move to prove this also. You can see it by clicking the following link. http://www.jeeptv.com/video/5492 So once again to state the FACTS. You do not have to have your rear wheels off the ground if you tow dolly. Just because your rear tires are rolling does not mean your front tires have to turn as well. I've shown this by the above video's. So once again I stand by everything I've stated prior in this post. I'm not trying to be an a$$; I just hate mis-information. I've flat towed my MJ well over 2000 miles by what I stated prior and have also tow-dolly'd well over 1000 miles by what I stated prior WITHOUT ISSUES. Disclaimer: I apologize for the poor video skills. I was trying to video, talk, and demonstrate all by myself.

I dissagree... It says on the GROUND; not on a "dolly". Why else would is say "It may be necessary...."? I think if they state in the manual in the paragraph prior "on a dolly" than the word GROUND wouldn't of been used if they didn't mean on the GROUND. If they meant on a dolly it would of said on a dolly. Why would you put the TC in (N) if it's on a dolly? :roll: It makes absolutely no sense for them to tell you to put the TC in (N) if your rear tires of off the GROUND on a dolly and are not turning.... I'm simply stating it by what it says (GROUND); your the one who's making it say something it does not. To each their own in how you interpretate it than... but as stated prior it's been done by several people without issues.

Holy high center of gravity batman! I do like it though! :cheers:

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=208 Even includes rear leafs. CC members also get a discount. :cheers:

I've tried to provide info but everyone seems to be a nay-sayer to what the manuals show (even though I posted the photo's of the manuals for proof). I guess photo's proving it isn't even enough! :roll:

Yeah? The underlined entry immediately above that section of the manual says it applies to recreational towing. That means towing behind an RV with all four wheels on the road and turning. The question in this thread doesn't involve recreational towing. What's your point? Here... It may be necessary to tow a 4WD vehicle with the front raised (hmm.. tow dolly) and rear wheels ON THE GROUND. Insure that the transfer case in in Neutral (N) and the transmission is either in Park (auto) or in gear (manual) I don't think it can get any more clear than that... :roll: