jimoshel

I just pulled 2 regulators. Still need one?

But will the lock cylinders interchange?

How about a 2 door? I would think they would be the same but............ :hmm:

U ain't gettin none of mine fer a dime! Unless maybe U pull it yerself!! :thumbsup: :laughin:

Now why would I do that? If the license plate, collectors series, hadn't got bent so bad I would have repaired and kept it.

1995 XJ. 1 ign lock 2 door locks 1 glove box lock 1 rear hatch lock 1 key $25 shipped.

I had '51 MB. 4 cyl, 4spd. Turned 300K when the wife wrecked it. Ran as good as the day it left the factory. Pulled the engine and hooked it up to a welder. Ran for another 5 years when I sold the welder.

OH! That mileage. MJ 225,992 '89 2.5 216,101 '87 4.0 XJ 239,138 '89 4.0 213,806 '89 4.0

24mpg. '87 2.5, AX4 19mpg '90 4.0 AX15 18mpg ' 86 2.8 AX5 18mpg '87 4.0 AW4 17mpg '87 2.5 AX5

Was out removing front end parts from a '86XJ. Broke a nut loose with a 1/2 inch ratchet and then unscrewed the nut off with my fingers. While unscrewing it the thought hit me. Bet the guys, and gals, in the rust belt can't do this. 'nuff said. While under there I noticed there is a narrow gap above the bottom of the torque mounting bracket. If some one was unfortunate to have the weldnut come loose on them, there is enough room to slide a screw driver or chisel, something wedge shaped thru this slot and jamb it between the nut and bottom of the mount. By cutting the slot out enough a guy could slip a box end wrench in there and hold the nut. Would also work when re-installing the bolt. This slot is on the inside side of the mount. Get under the Jeep and look up. You can see it.

Did they use the same size cables on all 3, 1 front, 2 rear, on the 113 and the 117 inch WB? Or did they use a different size on the rear? I'm ASSuming the front cable would be the same between the two and they made up the difference with the 2 rear ones. Or did they use the same length on both short and long WB?

Just Crap

Location would help. Stuff goes for different prices in different parts of the country.

I see nothing wrong with that. Looks OK to me. I believe as long as none of the threads on the nut are exposed you're good.

Did you align the grooves? There is grove on the arm and shaft ti insure it will only go on in one position.

The header panel, upper radiator support and front fenders on the '86 is different from the '87 up. They will swap but requires a little more work. On the '86, the four (two on each side)bolts holding the header to the fender are screwed into the header and project into the fender with a nut applied from behind the fender holding them. Makes it necessary to remove the splash shields to access them. A real PITA. On the '87 up the bolts are attached to the fenders and jut forward, very easy to get to.The marker light mounting is slightly different but directly interchange. The hood prop is mounted on the Right inner fender on the '86-'87. Attached to the top of the header on '88 up. The hood safety catch is different, On the '86 it goes thru a hole in the header. On the '87 up there is a metal rod screwed to the header it catches on.

Not used to dealing with dealers. Almost forgot they exist. :yes:

For the information of any one wanting to fix the track bar nut problem, This is what you want. Any JY should have one for a couple bucks, or for the masochists that want to make their own.

10-30

Use a stethescope or just your ear. A wrist pin has a lighter knock. Also stick your head under the hood. A wrist pin will be louder than a rod. Crawl under the Jeep. The rod will now be louder than a pin.

SEX? Wracking the memory trying remember what they're talking about. :hmm:

Watched a coyote chase a rabbit across the yard. They were both walking.

I gave up completely on PB after trying for two days to post the above pic. I just tried imgur as per a suggestion by gogmorgo. Seems to be working.

A pic of the '86 track bar mount. No hole.

I was referring to the '86 mount. It does NOT have an opening to fit a wrench, or anything else in.