jimoshel

. Pull the plug from the back of the alt. Pin 1, Brn wire should be reading 2.5-3.0 Volts with the ign on.

You want a Caddy P/U do like I did. Took a '68 Coupe DeVille, Cut the back half out. Welded in the back panel from a Cevy P/U and had a 68 Caddy P/U. And it showed it as a P/U on the title and registration.

All Good suggestions and I will be doing them. However doesn't answer the question. Why only in 4th and not the first 3?

holy smoke!! :bowdown:

If that was closer I'd jump on it. 520 miles, Pueblo to Alamogordo. The bid is $550, reserve not met. Yep. It was scrap and that's what I did with it.

Wanted to see how my latest acquisition runs so I made a run into town with it. 20 miles. Ran great, with one minor problem. Charged down the on ramp and was doing 85 when I hit the highway. Had a slight vibration but that was the old tires on it doing that. Not death wobble. Ran smooth at 75 the rest of the way in. It runs and starts good. Just when ever I let up on the gas it dies. Would start right up again, no problem. Only dies when I'm in 4th or "O". In 1 or 2-3 it doesn't die. Just idles like it's supposed to. Haven't started trouble shooting yet. just looking for some ideas. 1987 MJ 4.0L Auto with column shift. :dunno:

Hey Don. Got one laying around? Been looking for a MB for the last 6 months. Ain't one around. All the welfare folks here drive Caddys.

Been reading up on it. Apparently they didn't use enough headbolts. Using a set Of ARP head bolts and heavy duty gaskets solved that. They didn't have a fuel-water separator in them..Most of the problems can be solved with the use of after market goodies. I think I,m going to pass on it just because of the weight. Close to 900lbs.

JB Weld?

Got a chance to pick up a low mileage, complete running 1980 Olds diesel. Just thinking it maybe too much engine for a MJ. Any opinions or thoughts on the matter? I really want to do a diesel swap but I want it to be practical.

What was he driving? A Ford?

Just got thru swapping out the header panel on the DD. 87 MJ. Twisted the heads off most of the screws going into it holding the lights. Didn't know fiber glass would rust but them suckers was froze in there. Tried penetrating oil and and beating on a phillips screw driver while trying to turn it. Nothing worked. Covered the threads of the new screws with anti sieze. See if that will help remove them in the future. :fs1:

Check your tail pipe. See if there is any moisture coming out of it. Pull your plugs. Look for one, or two adjacent ones that are cleaner than the rest.

You would probably have better luck at an appliance repair facility. They're used in almost every appliance that produces heat. Dryers, micro waves, ovens, coffee makers, etc. etc. If you really have trouble finding solder, let me know. I have several dozen rolls of 60/40 rosin core for electronic equipment repair

One needs a sense of humor to survive in this world. It's helped me get by for 78 years. Just wondering. Am I the oldest old far,,,,er,,,guy here?

An old guy, OK, OK, a guy my age, and not in the best of shape was working out in the gym when he spotted a sexy and beautiful young woman. He asked the nearby trainer, "What machine should I use in here to impress that cute young thing over there with the great body?" The trainer looked him up and down and said, "I'd try the ATM in the lobby."

Personally, I think I would just solder a piece of wire across it and forget about it.

Got it from the 1989 MJ service manual. Sorry. Don't have a 2000 SM. but there shouldn't be that much difference. Radio Shack or any appliance repair facility should carry them. You may not get the exact 148 value, unless you go to the stealership but ti's not that critical Anything a couple degrees either way will work. Like was said previously. They work by sensing heat. Resistors produce heat. Make sure the area around the resistors is clean and there is free air flow around them.

Somebody has to much money and can't find enough things to spend it on.

I meant to say that but in my rambling I didn't. You ask for a thermal fuse by heat rating. Not amps. The value here is 148* Centigrade

Take them out and inspect them.Unhook the cable from the T case. Is the end of the cable OK, or is it messed up? Remove the gear from the T case. Are all the teeth there and not chipped? Is the end of the cable attached to the speed head? Usually when the speedometer doesn't work it's because the cable came unhooked from the head.

That "Thingie: is a thermal fuse. It blows if it senses too much heat. The heater will work just fine without it. However there is a reason for it blowing. Might try putting a amp meter in the circuit and seeing just how much currant it is drawing. From the symptoms you describe, I would suspect the blower motor. If you can reach it, feel it after running a couple minutes. Feel if it's hot or not. If you do decide to jump it, there's the 25 amp fuse in the fuse box so you've still got some protection. If it is the blower motor, try a drop of oil on the bearings. Also make sure the area around the entire resister assembly is clean and clear of any dirt, trash or debris.

I solved the problem of not enough room in the engine compartment by mounting four P51 Mustang engines direct to the wheels. One engine per wheel.Got the synchronous worked on and they pulled pretty good on a straight line. Had a little trouble going around corners, The two inside engines wouldn't slow down while the two outside speeded up. Hard on tires and handling. Altho cooling was a problem, required a 150 gallon tank of glycol kept under the hood in the former engine compartment, and the placement of four radiators, the biggest problem was fuel. You just can't drive into any Loaf an Jug or Shell station and fill up with 500 gallons of 150 octane. Finally settled on the detuned version needing 100 octane. Also retained two of the 8 .50 cal Brownings in case I encountered any road rage. :doh: :rotf: :eek:

:yes:

I believe in the last 2 years I've seen 3 MJ'S around here. Actually only 2 because I think I saw the same one twice.