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Everything posted by cvic90
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Got my zr2 springs from a 2002 crew cab I believe. Used Comanche main, cut the mounts off the zr2 main, pulled the leaf spacers and used all the zr2 pack with the Comanche overload. Really got about 3.5" staying spring under.
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The upper radiator hose and heater valve blew out in the Comanche while my brother was towing his xj home. So I got to swap in my open system I had laying around. Moved the coil and relays for the overflow to fit in the stock location over the spring mount. Now I've got all new hoses, pump, heater valve and thermostat. Meant to do it before it blew out but it's on now.
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1989 longbed looking for a lift
cvic90 replied to Rhinojeeps's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
That's more than enough for a decent lift. I'm running 3" pro comp front coils, older teraflex adjustable arms, skyjacker m95 shocks and a MJ/S10 ZR2 bastard pack rear leaf. Take is like factory and more than enough room for my 31" -
I like the outside the box engine swap idea. I've been working on a Honda engine swap into my wrangler. Hoping to start pulling my motor next month.
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That's a deal. The full doors are worth nearly that. I've got a 95 with 2.5 and it only needs more gear with larger tires. You'll love the short wheelbase.
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NP242 inspection, brand suggestions?
cvic90 replied to Megadan's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Def a good idea to just replace bad sounding bearings no matter what they are in. I rebuild Honda manual transmissions all the time and that's how I determine what I'm going to replace. Clean them and roll them to check for smooth rotation. I'm also planning to use a 242 when I convert my Comanche. I like the idea of full time option in a road driven truck that will just be light duty offroad. -
WJ front brake/steering setup works great. I just put it on my YJ and love it. I'm planning to put it on my MJ when I convert to 4x4. Rear disc isn't easy. All have to be modified. I'm going to work on WJ and ZJ rear brakes after i convert the front and decide which one I'm going to make work.
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My brother is parting out his 87 2wd sport truck of anybody needs anything. Has no title so it's parts only. http://bham.craigslist.org/pts/5685815840.html
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It'll be a while before I get them finished and installed. Right now it's just mainly maintenance. Added the Detroit d35 lunchbox into the d30 carrier since I have the 2 piece axle still. It'll work til the others are built up. Plus I've got a motor swap planned in the future. Just waiting til after new years to start.
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I would have looked for d44 but I got a real good deal on the 30 spline setup and already had the disc brakes waiting to go on it. So I decided to see how it goes. The truss and axles should help keep it together. My plan now is to find a stock MJ d44 with 3.55 and trac-loc for the and build my current 3.07 up for the YJ.
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It's a 2.5,ax5,np231. 4.0 throttle body, 4.10 d35 trac-loc,d30 right now. Rigid ridge mega short sye kit, cheap no name smitty style high clearance bumper with extra 1/4" reinforcement plate under the winch area, 9k lbs badlands winch with wireless remote, 6" HID lights, 3" suspension, 1" body lift, 1" lift engine mounts, 1" skid plate drop 33x12.50x15 bias swamper TSL on some aftermarket 5x139 ford wheels with 1.5" adapters. Mastercraft suspension seats in front. It drives great but needs gears and lockers terribly bad. I'm building a non c-clip super 35 for the rear. Detroit 30 spline locker, alloy USA 30 non spline chromoly axles, 4.8u8 gears, TnT customs truss, currie leaf skid plates, ZJ rear disc. The d30 with be near the same, Detroit soft locker, 4.88, 297x joints, WJ brakes, ruff stuff 1-ton offset tie rod bar.
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It's been sitting because I bought the MJ since it was drivable and the yj needed the front end freshened up. Finally decided to tear it down for new seals, u joints,ball joints, unit bearings, 1 ton steering and a WJ brake swap.
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Got my A/C finally working today. Pulled and cleaned all the parts, replaced the expansion valve,new oil, and put on a compressor, lines and bracket from my 91 Briarwood xj. Good clean r134 system running cold now.
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88 Eliminator 2wd to 4x4 conversion
cvic90 replied to colt45's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Everything you need to know is in here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/?do=findComment&comment=513562 -
I have a 94 4.0 ho with a lunati cam and external slave 4wd ax15 Trans, new clutch, 242 with sye kit I'm going to install. But I don't have the money for a rear drive shaft and master slave parts right now since I'm working on getting the a/c going first right now. I'll probably change the slave out til I'm ready. Pedal changes every time temperature changes. Weirdest thing I've dealt with on a clutch.
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Should check out my truck. New Front springs are fairly cheap. I used s10 zr2 4x4 leafs added to my main and overload springs and it gave me about 3.5" in the rear. I used 3" pro comp front springs.
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Made trip to a friend's 1.5 hour away to pick up a 94 4.0 HO w/ ax15 external slave 4x4 Trans from a wrangler. Rode great with and without a load at 70mph. Not sure if I can use them yet, it came with all 3 aftermarket mounts, plus new clutch, water pump, thermostat, alternator all done in last 500 miles. Exhaust manifold is cracked but I'll just get a header. Has anyone tried to use wrangler clutch master/slave cylinder set in a cherokee? I'm on my 2nd clutch master in the last week and it's annoying me greatly. It was great then yesterday it dropped to half pedal and I can pump the free travel and the pedal comes up. I'm afraid it's pulling air in from the cab area.
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That's pretty good for working in a storage unit.
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Yes. I bought some used ones for $120 off eBay. Couldn't find enough info on new ones to be sure I was getting the right ones at the time so I just went with what I found. Not a decent u pull it close enough to me to go look either. Have to be the ZR2 springs though. They have significantly more arch. And if you use the shim spacers the s10 has you can adjust the height down maybe 1/2". I didn't have a long enough centering bolt so I left the shims out. I want to load it and drive it around some to see if it will settle any when I get new driveshaft joints installed.
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I had already bypassed the rear load prop valve because it didn't work and I had no rear fluid flow at all. The wj booster requires some slight work to install mainly a cutoff wheel to trim some of the bracing on the firewall. There wasn't room for my clutch line so I bent it to go over the booster and trim the lip above the booster. I did have to open up the bottom half of the firewall hole for the booster to fit into it. I read this thread about it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/ I used a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I removed the old return line for the rear load valve and cut it up for a driver side hard line and was able to cut and re-bend the wj master cylinder lines to reach the prop valve. Just make sure you get the hardware with the booster and master cylinder. They are different. I didn't have any but it's the same as most Honda bolts so I had plenty of extra laying around. Brake pedal feel is much better now. I just have to get the prop valve adjusted properly.
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Super nice truck. If it weren't across the country I'd send some buyers. That's a steal.
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You've done a great job restoring and updating your MJ. This is exactly what I want to do with mine when I find a donor.
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It's back on the road finally. Turned out fairly nice I think. It rides very firm, it soaks up big dips and small bumps very well though. It drives a lot better now. And when I get out I don't have to stand up now, I just slide out. It's just the right height so far. The rear is about 1.5" higher than the front.
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I have barely more in the entire lift than a new set of military wrap lift leafs cost. I'm still working on the brakes right now so I'm not sure how it will ride. The shocks were most likely factory (and severely blown) so it will hopefully be a bit less floaty. I got the Wilwood prop valve, WJ booster and master cylinder in tonight. Bent the rear and passenger front lines to fit perfect. Had to make a new driver line for the valve since it was so much higher now. Just have to rebend the WJ master cylinder lines to the prop valve, cut and add fittings and flare the ends then bleed the system. It will be slightly easier to bleed when I end up putting the WJ calipers on in a few months.
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I finally got around to putting the lift on at work today. Since we weren't busy anyway. I pieced it together because I wanted more than an add a leaf but wanted parts that I picked out. 3" Pro Comp front springs, Extended stainless brake lines, some older teraflex lower adjustable arms, Skyjacker M95 shocks and some S10 ZR2 crew cab rear leaf springs. I used all 3 leafs from the ZR2, just cutting the mounts off the mains. I added them to the MJ main and overload. I also replaced all the plastic leaf sliders. I got 3" in the front of course and 3.5" in the rear so far. Once its drivable again I'll flex it and load a bit to see how it settles. But, I'm really happy how it turned out. My front brake lines are weird and needed crush washers at the caliper banjo block so I quit for the day and went to orielly and found a crush washer kit. $13 later I had the 2 I needed and about 50 I don't. Decided since I was having to take another day for the lines, I'd go ahead and put my WJ Booster/Master cylinder and wilwood proportioning valve in also.
