Manche757

The Pick & Pull at Rancho Cordova, CA near Sacramento has an MJ with honey color interior. Is someone will go pull the parts and mail them to me, I will make it worth your while.

Thanks Petrovitch

WV has some world class white water. The Gauley river has been rated one of the 10 best in the world. Dam release and the dams open in Sept and close early Oct. Looks like you will be going through at best time.

If anyone is close enough to pull a few things for me, I will make it worth your while. Easy stuff to pull. Honey interior parts Mini-console Cover for steering column. Visors and clips B pillar trim Manual window handles with washers

How is that better?

By chance did you fill up your tank with some bad gas just before it started?

Gotta love exact answers. Thanks

I bought two fuse panels from someone on CC but do not know the year XJ that they came out of. Any way to tell?

I am sure this has been dealt with but I am still not clear about it. Are fuse panels for all MJ years the same? Which year XJ panels can be used to replace an 87MJ, 4.0, 5 speed and also in an 89MJ, 4.0, 5 speed?

You have checked to see that the cables are not touching the frame? Cable to starter for example.

What, if anything, did you do about it? Wet spot from deteriorated tank?

That is a scary scenario. Exploding gas fumes/spray. Hate to think what might happen in an accident. If I fill up (I never top off) I can smell gas fumes outside but not inside the cab. If I don't put more than 15 gallons in the tank, I don't get the fumes. I do not get hissing sound when taking the cap off. No gas has ever leaked on the ground. Any ideas? 8(MJ, 4.0, 5 speed 80K miles. I do not know if tank is original or not.

I am interested in the tan interior cab pieces. If someone is close enough to pull them, pm me. Thanks

The Prescott city water reservoir must be in the middle of a peyote patch.

While at it, it would be nice to know what the available interior cab colors were also. My 89MJ has two diff colors of grey; dash is dark and trim/seats are lighter grey. I have wondered if that was stock.

Did you check actuators? 15 minute replacement vs taking dash apart. Any clicking noise? You already checked for a cracked vaccum canister?

Thought you might enjoy this read if you haven't seen it already. 1949 F150 compared to 2019 F150. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/autos-trucks/how-the-1949-ford-f-1-compares-to-a-modern-2019-ford-f-150/ar-AAEoB42?ocid=spartanntp

Your house was wired to code for the time that it was built and was as safe as any other electrical system of that time. The conductive water piping was a safe ground until the advent of non-metal waster piping. The city water lines are below the frost line and is likely more than 5 feet deep in the ground. Compare that to an 8 foot metal rod that is used now. City water line or 8 foot grounding rod - in either case it is the secondary ground after the power company ground. Reactivating the ground system in a piecemeal way will create confusion for anyone looking at the system later. You found a grounding wire near the water line that was 6 ga with a jumper around the meter in case the meter had to be removed for servicing. When the new electric panel was put in, the electrician disconnected it from the panel and probably pushed it down in the wall below the electric panel rather than cutting it out. Recommendatiion: Stay with the updated 8 foot grounding rod there now. Regardless you still have the leaking hot to ground to find. With all the magical CC help, you can find where grounds are in the system. The 2 white wires under the sink may have been an attempt to ground to the water pipe by use of a saddle clamp ground.

Does that fit directly without any mods? Had a/c put in and probably need a bump up

Smat move. I am sure you will be glad to have it all behind you. It would be interesting to learn what else he does

This pic of the bathroom box is more fun than a Rubik's cube. I can not see all cables coming in to the box, but what I see looks like it has not been molested but a ground fault interrupter added. The GFIC can give false readings if grounded to neutral but they still give you protection by tripping quicker. Can you get a pic that shows the conductors in each of the 4 cables feeding from the top? One will be the hot line and the others feed off of it. There could be 2 circuits there but don't think so from what I see. You should use a plastic crevice tool on your shop vac to scrap and clean the plaster out of the box. It will cause rust, especially in a bathroom with shower.

This pic might win some prize. The black cable on the side was run later. I can not see all that goes in there. I count 10 conductors and no grounds. Can you spread the wires and take another pic? I can not tell if any cables enter from the left. The red conductors are probably for dual hot lines for 3 way and 4 way switches that control the same lights and are part of 14/3 ga cables with no ground. There will be black, red, and white conductors in the same cable. Monkey man has worked in this box. The junctions and taping is too sloppy.

Got a pic of the white wires you saw in the attic?

Got a pic of the white wires you saw in the attic?

If you open the oven door, there should be a plate on the oven that is hidden when the door is closed. If there is a drawer for pots and pans below the oven, the plate may be there. Power to larger appliances and machinery is expressed differently. The plate should give the model and serial number. Additionally you should see something like: 120/240 V, AC only, 8.5 KW @ 208 V. Homes in the US have single phase current. Business and commercial places have 3 phase that allows for more flexibility and efficiency. With a little simple algebra you can convert to amps. KW is kilowatt and equals 1000 watts. Amps X volts = Watts. (KW X !000) / volts = amps. In this case: (8.5 X 1000) / 208 = 40.87 amps which is the power required