carnuck

On 4 cyls, in front of the TBI. On 4.0L it's on the TBI

Cherokee on the front but the rear will need to be custom (unless there are ones I don't know about?) I have a nice channel steel one for my '87 with a hitch on it.

Don't rule out a faulty fuel filter! (I've seen 5 so far this year) Also if a lot of water is in the fuel, the filter will clog up almost instantly

For my '88 MJ. I think it's the last part I need to finish my conversion (that and pics of where the shift cable goes through the firewall) I already have the idiot light version and a regular full gauge pod. If it was just me driving, it wouldn't matter. Wifey doesn't know how to tell what gear without the prindle gauge.

I've found the best gearing for a Renix 4.0 with 5 speed/33" tires is 3.73 because 4.10 took away all my top speed!

The rear valve limits the rear brakes when there is no load so you don't lock up and skid. I have mine bypassed and went to larger wheel cyls, so I do get rear lockup in the rain sometimes. Next step would be a smaller bore rear cyl to keep the lockup under control.

Get '80 to '83 Wagoneer or Cherokee (narrow trac. All 4 drs are narrow trac and some 2 drs are too) or '84 to '91 Grand Wagoneer axles. Width is correct. After '86 they went to D44 front and rear, but the Rear Model 20 is plenty strong. Go to a long arm kit for ride and lift and be done with it.

Gently purge the fuel rail (rag under the valve and gently push in the Schraeder valve without bending it so it won't stop leaking) and see what the fuel smells like. (since it runs, this part isn't needed) I bought a lawnmower spark plug tester for $5 (they have them in the cheap tool bin at work) so I can hook a plug wire to it to check for spark, but since it catches to run with a splash of gas, spark is not the issue. A fuel pressure test gauge is the next step after checking the fuel in the line to see if it's rancid. Then check the engine and body ground points (take the wire off, clean and dielectric grease them) Too bad injector testers are expensive. I bought a set of noid lights (they check the harness to see if a pulse is coming to the injector)

Anyone else notice the front suspension in almost all those rigs wasn't a straight axle?

C101 connector is probably the issue. That's the big connector above the brake booster on '87/88 MJs and XJs. Wiggle it and see if the motor dies.

Wrong wheel bolt pattern. 5 on 5"

The front frame wasn't designed for leafs and will need major bracing. Find a Bronco D44 high pinion. It's narrower than the full size truck one. Or get an '80 up FSJ axle (make sure it's non-vacuum) and sell the older RH drop one to a CJ guy. (it's close to the width of a CJ wide trac)

There is a plastic line that goes from the intake to the MAP sensor (on the firewall above the motor) that can crack. (I'm doing this on a phone from Canada so pics aren't easy to link. Search for MAP sensor if you don't know what that is) If the bolts holding the manifold to the head are loose, the gasket that is supposed to seal between them will allow air past it and the noise will come from the gasket vibrating (like the reed valve in a saxophone) If the crank position sensor is set too far down, it will touch the flywheel. Try taking a can of sensor safe cleaner ( for Throttlebody) and spray it around that area a bit at a time (not when the motor is very hot though!) and listen for any changes in the motor running or the sound. That's how you find vacuum leaks. Oh! There is also a valve in the cap of the throttle body that can make noise when it gets gummed up. You'll feel the vibes with your fingers (just avoid really hot areas!)

Try a spoonful of gas in the throttlebody. If it runs for just a sec, no gas is being sprayed in. If it catches and runs fine then the gas may be too old to ignite easily

Unless I'm mistaken, the NP231 is the same auto and std. It's the spline count that changed ('87 to '90 AW4, all years AX4/AX5 and BA 10/5 are 21 spline. '91 up AW4 and AX15 are 23 spine)

The 207 design is fairly weak, so make sure you run good ATF in it (I put synthetic in mine when I took it to Ouray in '02. It;s still going strong but noisy in low range 150,000 miles later) If it is hooked to an AX5 or AX4, it should be 21 spline. If hooked to a 3 speed auto, then it's 23 spline (apparently the only way 9XX and 727 trans came was 23 spine) They were gone before the AW4 came along, but the input shaft depth changed by almost 1". I bolted a MUCH stronger NP208 (one from an '80 to '88 FSJ LH drop and one from a Dodge which was RH drop) to an AX15 and AW4 (23 spline) with a "1 inch adapter ring" from Partsmike.com that costs @$100) These NP208s come with fixed yoke outputs (no slip yoke eliminator needed!)

I have the alarm and stereo system factory CD I bought on Evilbay. Got rid of my '93 for parts because the harness was too complicated to swap into my FSJ (where the 4.0L and 93 only JGC AW4 live)

My special procedure is to bypass that load valve and plug off the extra line at the front. But that's just me!

I have dealt with the non-bleeding problem several times now. Most often it is caused by the arm for the clutch pedal being bent slightly out of alignment with the clutch master cyl. I modded a reservoir lid with a tire stem (screw in kind) and use a bicycle pump to bleed. That partially pressurizes the system and the pedal returns to normal. I've seen several Jeeps now with the same problem where they replaced the master and slave and still had no clutch happening. Replace the clutch pedal arm or straighten it out and voila! it works again! PS: If the slave is gone, fluid will keep disappearing and dripping down under. Lack of pressure is bad master, air getting in somewhere (when the clutch pedal arm is bent it's pulled in from under the dash) or the master isn't making pressure (bypassing internally) When my integral slave went out, I used corn oil in place of brake fluid and got another year's use before it failed completely.

The oil running down from the head can fool you into thinking the rear seal is leaking. Ditto on the oil pressure sending unit. I fixed mine just before midnight on Y2K and was mad to see oil again. It was the sender the whole time! It blew off on the highway 2 days later

Hold up! That kit is for a left hand drop axle and the '78 FSJ (and all pre '80 FSJs) are RH Drop! You will need a different tcase setup, exhaust, etc to use the older axles.

Never saw that nut separately available

Try 2wd Dodge 1/2 ton (from the late 60's to '70s) 2wd rims. They are offset closer to the outside fenders

Look for baby duallies for Dodge pickups from the '70s. The adapters are hubcentric

The MJ axle will be better for the car since it's already SUA. Sell the D44 for $300 and get a D35 for $50 (I got 3 of them for that and an 8.25 for $25 since they all had 3.07 no-one wanted for Jeeps)