veritas4156

Did you try replacing the oil pressure sending unit? Also check your engine ground straps. Both can cause false readings on the pressure. Did the spitting and sputtering go away after that ride home? Could have been caused by a bunch of things. I've knocked rust loose in my tank while on a low tank and nearly immediately clogged my fuel filter. Ended up having to drop the tank to clean it out. And damn man, what's your fuel economy like running that thick of oil?

Self etching attaches to bare metal really well. Sandable does but not as well. Self etching doesn't seal as well. Sandable is sandable (builds up higher). Self etching will rub off if you sand it. Self etching usually comes in a really cool green color.

I like hoses better for looking for noise. Grab like 3 feet of 1/4 to 1/2 inch hose and it works wonders for finding things going clunk. Fuel or heater hose generally works well.

My truck saved a house. 40 foot hemlock started falling the wrong way. I climbed it, threw my tow strap around it, hooked it up to my truck, and pulled. House saved.

As another alternative, a buddy of mine just did the dakota steering gearbox swap and he loves it.

gas tank. Tank weighs 10-15 lbs. 1 gallon of gas weighs 6.7 lbs. Tank in a comanche is 24 gallons, so an extra 160 lbs always weighing to that one side. The lean is never real major, just a little bit.

There are a million posts about this. I just figured I'd try it. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2318&start=0 Regarding the brakes, that's a good thought. Wish I had one of those temp laser things to help search. Oh, and grinding smells like :banana:

IIRC, the only difference between regular black and ultra black is that Ultra is sensor safe. If you're gonna use black might as well use the cheap stuff. I personally use red and have never had a problem. I literally use the stuff on everything.

My friend's nissan, my MJ, and a few other trucks I've seen have this problem. Run your gas tank down low, if it levels out a bit it is probably because the tank is on one side of the truck, in our case, the drivers side, towards your lean. I've noticed on lifted trucks its just easier to see the lean.

I've never seen em before on any Jeep I've worked on.

Alright so I've been smelling some burning/grinding/very hot metal lately and its making me worry. Happens pretty much every time I drive my truck. No smoke or anything, not burning oil, everything's good on the engine side. However, I did just change the muffler on my rather rusty exhaust system. Used lots of muffler sealer. Possible cause A. Possible cause B: Just changed the clutch, painted the tranny and transfer case with bright yellow engine paint while they were out of the truck, changed my tranny fluid to 10w40 Castrol Syntec after reading a whole bunch of things online about what to use in the AX15, and threw some B&M Synthetic Trick Shift into my T-case after draining it because it normally takes regular ATF and I had this stuff laying around so I figured it'd work better cuz its synthetic and has "Trick" in the name. Doesn't seem like anything is leaking, fluid levels seem good, I'm just paranoid about burning out a tranny or Tcase before winter. I've only put maybe 300 miles on the truck since I did all this. Any thoughts?

Back when fram's weren't made in china they were half decent. Now I hate em. I read this review a few years ago, http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilte ... study.html then tried it for myself and ran a fram, cut it in half and ran a Purolator Pure One. The fram was missing pieces. Purolator looked like I could wash it out with kerosene and use it again.

If it were mine I'd throw a set of 8.8s off a ford on it at a minimum, those tires are gonna break your current stock axles if you actually wheel it. Dana 60s are nice if you can find em for a decent price, but the 8.8s are a nice alternative and can get ya discs in the back too. As for the tranny, throw an AX15 in there out of a newer MJ/YJ/XJ/TJ etc. From there you can either stick with your current transfer case or if you have the cash and want a real solid rig, throw an Atlas II in there. Beefy as $#!& and gives you more gearing options than you'll know what to do with.

If its the Bars Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair then its actually half decent. Bought a full size ford van to haul a motorcycle before I had the comanche because it was cheaper to do that than rent a truck/uhaul/whatever and I threw a bottle of that in when I found out it was pissing oil from the rear main. It actually held up for 2 oil changes before it started pissing oil again, I added another bottle of that and it slowed it down to almost nothing. All I know is that stuff is THICK. I've since recommended it as a temporary (even long term temporary) fix for customers. I work at an Advance Auto. Not sure if I just got lucky, but that was good enough for what I needed it for.

Sweet sounds good guys. Didn't get a whole lot of time to work on it today, I'll have more time wednesday, hopefully I'll get it done then because after that I don't have a day off for about a week.

And its very clean. But nowhere near worth $15k.

Alright, so how come when I read tons of threads on doing a clutch replacement, none of them mentioned that PITA exhaust bracket that holds the cat to the tranny? My solution... cutting wheel and a cheap replacement hanger.

Yeah thats not a bad idea, but I need to get this done quick and I already have the parts. I only worked on it for like an hour or so and I'm pretty much ready to drop the tranny.

I'm just starting on my clutch replacement on my 91 4.0L ax15 and I've done one on a YJ before. I figured eh, what the hell I might as well post up and see if anyone has some useful tips to make the job easier. I'm gonna go start doing it now that it cooled off a bit, but I'll get updates on the thread on my phone so keep em coming if you don't mind.

Alright, I got it out, looks like its just a PITA with probably no way around it being a PITA.

Any easy way to get to that top bolt that holds on the parking brake assembly that's in the back and blocked by the fuse box? I'm getting rid of my parts MJ today and I want that for my good MJ and I don't have time to finagle with it. If I have to I'll do it but there has to be an easier way

They gave me the rght joint the first time, but it was defective. It had a burr on the cross that prevented a cap from going on all the way. Thanks for the help. It was the neapco 10174 in case anyone goes through this in the future, which is the smaller one.

Alright, so I went to a local auto parts store and picked up a couple wheel u joints for my truck. They gave me a NEAPCO 1-0174 but it didn't quite fit right, regardless, i broke the u joint putting it in and slightly bent the yoke. Called up competing auto parts store and they said the proper part number for these is NEAPCO 1-0297. The problem is, the bearing caps seemed to be the right size and the center cross was too big, but on the 1-0297 the bearing cap is bigger. Any idea what my issue may be? Factory D30 w/vacuum disco in the front, lemme know if you need more info.

Believe it or not I still have yet to put it in. I started taking the tank down and started breaking every bolt so decided to wait till its warmer to do the job when I can really spend time on it.

I need one too and found this on fleabay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... op:en#shId I'm gonna order one tomorrow and install this weekend. I'll let ya know how it turns out.