dustyinthedirt

I’ve been tieing up loose ends in the cab. I altered a centerconsole to fit. There was only two xjs with tan interior in the pickapart. They did have three Comanches in there that I scavenged pretty hard. I may or may not have three sets of taillights... also got a passenger side window regulator (which somebody had already replaced in that vehicle so I got some hardware with it instead of drilling out rivets) and a climate control. I had to peice the console together to make it work. I got the console and back bracket from one the black trim bezel from another, and the latch from another. I had to fix the console with some JB Plasticweld, since it was broken. Also who knew wood working tools would cut plastic trim perfectly

Thanks. I feel like I do a lot and am getting not very far

Got a 00’ front end from a buddy

I have a bumper and am located near Asheville nc. It’s of course a little bent but I would take $75 for it

Before I put the interior back together I swapped out the headlight switch and gotta get a center console since I’m switching to bucket seats.

I used thin sticky back aluminum to lay down on the firewall and tunnel. Used the leftover to cover the back of the cab. I am more worried about heat then sound deading since I’m planning on removing the doors

I’ve gotte. Lots done just haven’t been posting about it. Welded the truss on the front Dana 50. Patched the holes in the floor and layed down some sound deading. I have the fenders and clip pulled and am in the process of getting a 00’ fenders and clip.

I’ve been daily driving this ugly truckling around for a couple months now getting bugs worked out. The windshield leaks there’s holes in the driver side floor. The passenger window doesn’t roll all the way down it stops about four inches from the bottom. You can push it down and it’ll go but it won’t roll back up till you get it back to that point it stopped at. Also nobody tells you that with no insulation in the floor just Bed liner the heat from the tunnel is awful on your legs. But my lord am I proud of this ugly truck.

I didn’t cut into the plug welds in the tube. But I did remove a little over 2” of housing and am gonna quarter weld the tube to the housing just for a extra measure of safety. I will still end up having to weld some of the bucket to the cast housing. But will also have half welded to the tube now.

So I have been waiting for 2 months on rocky road to ship my lift. Recently picked up a set of superduty axles for a good price. And have started cutting the housing to make more room between the pumpkin and the knuckle it’s a fifty in the front. And I know they are just a “beefed up” 44 and the rear will be a sterling 10.5 full float with disc brakes. I measured the difference between the stock Dana 30 and the 10.5 and it’s around 5 inches larger per side. It’s gonna be wide. I have definitely debated on trying to get a 44 for the front and using the 8.8 I have laying around. But anyways here’s my progress so far. Just waiting on parts to show up

I changed the headlight out last night with the last one out of my collection. And it’s working fine for now. I cleaned the connectors when I reinstalled the motor but I will unplug and clean the connectors tonight. It’s easy enough and wouldn’t hurt to be sure. Should I get some of the electrod ggrease? I figure it would help to try and keep all the moisture out.

I am having headlights go out on the passenger side. I’ve put two in that I’ve had on the shelf for a while and they work fine for a while then quit. I just checked the plug for bolts and it had 10.91 was pretty steady. Didn’t change from high to low though... I have checked the harness and do not see any grounds that I may have missed. It’s a stock harness as well

I got the new sender and the same. I hooked a mechanical gauge up and it read 230 was the highest it got. I have had a water pump and gasket on the shelf for a bit. I'm just gonna take the time and wash the radiator out and put the new pump on.

there’s plenty of coolant. And I drove it for twenty minutes at a time.

Yeah that hasn’t happened when I pulled the cap off. I have a sender waiting on me at Napa.

Has to be the only post I’ve ever found that nobody responded to

That’s what I figured. It doesn’t smell hot though. I haven’t been driving it since the other day. I pulled the belt off and checked the pump a few days ago. And it didn’t have any play. The lower hose is significantly cooler then the upper.

I drove the truck around for twenty minutes yesterday. The temp gauge stayed in the red but it never boiled over. the sender for the gauge is the little elbow at the back of the head right?

Okay ill get a sender and install that. Its never actually boiled over so thats why i was confused

Would a bad sender cause the fan not to work

The temp gauge says it’s in the red but I have never had it boil over. I found the electric fan is not cutting on so I straight wired it to see if that would fix my problem. Nope. Also noticed that the radiator cap (this has been switched to a open cooling system already) was not even hot and I could take it off when the gauge says it is over heating. The bottom radiator hose is only slightly warm. And still kinda squishy when the engine is on and “overheating” which makes me think it’s the water pump. I usually install a thermostat and a water pump together. So I installed a new thermostat first since it is easy to do. Still the same problems. The cap doesn’t get hot and lower hose is still only warm. Except on this drive I developed a belt chirping once the temp got to half way. I’m thinking it’s the water pump. I turned the heat on and have let it run while seeing if it needed to be topped off. Also I’m only getting warm air out the vents. With the cap open and truck running you can see the water churning a little bit. . Could my belt be to loose and it not be able to get a good grip on the pulley?

How do you like the red letter grabbers? I’ve had a set on my truck for a bit and have really mixed feelings about them. In the mud/snow not really a fan but on the rocks I wouldn’t have any other way

I picked up a set of smoker vent windows this weekend from a upull. Also got a set of superduty axles with disc brakes front and rear. Geared 4:10. The front is a Dana 50 and the rear is a 60. I know I’ll have to ether get a truss for the front or run coil overs because of how far the pumpkin is to one side I can’t fit the spring... we shall see

It was super easy to do. I used some pretty thick material and was able to bend it using the adjustables fairly easy with just a little heat. Now I did loose the line where the rocker meets the cab corner. That’s the seam I used to weld in my material The black enamel i used on it to cocer up the bare metal and little bit of body filler make it hard to tell what is going on. But you can kinda see the line I am talking about loosing. Only notice it if you knew it was there.. or looked at the other side. I tried to take a couple more pics but the truck is pretty filthy from all this wet weather. That pics from when it was first done. Also my welder is only a 115 volts so not a big unit

I got the windows out and they are in great shape!! Thanks Stroker for the idea to use a electric drill battery! It worked great. I had people stop and ask me how I did got the window to go down to easily lol