dustyinthedirt

Took the truck out for a little wheeling this weekend with a friend in his grand Cherokee. The MJ did the whole trail in two wheel drive except for two parts where I wanted to try and climb a very muddy hill. These trepidor radials are fantastic tires. Clean out at very low speeds. Ended up braking the high steers welds and didn’t notice till I almost got back home and was spraying the truck off. I did finish driving it home with out any problem the high steer has a 3/4 bolt through the knuckle. Time to remake and do it right this time. We heated the knuckle to a high temp tig welded it with the right rod. And cooked it down in a bucket of sand. This time I’m gonna still and tap the knuckle and bolt it down. Maybe that will keep it in place D980AACB-0617-4B84-9FDB-77C4A3BBE896.mov C0BD7145-C485-4097-B1BA-A0CA88B35CF0.mov

I really appreciate the help. And I may remember it being a little tricky to get the lights in...

Ah crap. I even thought I clicked the right section. anddddd that fixed it. I’m a little embarrassed I’ve never even thought about them have a wrong way?! Pretty embarrassing if they wanna move this post I would pay $2 to have it deleted hahaha

The drivers side tail light on my 89 lights up as if the brakes are being press when you turn on the headlights. The passenger side are fine and operate as normal, when the brakes are pressed while the headlights are on the passenger light operates fine. The brake lights operate as normal when the headlights are off. Only When the headlights are on the drivers side stay illuminated. I was thinking a grounding issue so I re checked and made sure to be able to see shiny metal before reconnecting the ground behind the drivers light. Nothing changed. Any advice? Is there another ground?

Very very nice truck! I would love a stock truck to daily.

Scooped up some new wheels and tires on Black Friday. Maxxis trepidor radials and a set of 17” wheels since mine were 16” and there wasn’t hardly any tire options other then swampers which are great but not for longevity its carzy what what a difference good tires will make. It’s like driving a stock truck now. Doesn’t wander until you hit 80 and then you got both hands on the wheel

Did some measuring and am gonna have way more up travel in the shock then the tire is gonna allow so I will need to make new shock tabs and move the axle side of the shock up a couple inches. Also got the M max flares painted and installed. Along with the skid plate. The truck has a flat belly back to the gas tank skid. I ground down the flats on two nuts to fit into round holes better. Then drilled a hole on both sides of the tunnel below the seat belt mounts and welded in these “threaded inserts” and was able to stiffen up the center of the skid. Maybe even help strengthen the truck? Maybe. It is tied to the crossmember and control arm mounts which are secured through the frame rails its got a flat belly with all the bolt heads recessed.

I mounted the front notch custom fender flares then Had to get some fire wood. So driveway stuntin it is you have to fit the flares a little before they fit just right but they are super nice, easy to install and you can customize them anyway to fit your needs for the most part. I slid the front forward an inch and the rear back an inch havent got it back out of the garage since I got the back on. Still need to paint them black

I don’t have the part number anymore. But I do remember that I just googled lower window trim to find and the. Did the same with the runner trim. Found them both for less then $20 a piece

Stretched the mjs legs a bit at work the other day to get a few measurements and make sure my trim job was sufficient to clear for the mild wheelin trip I was taking today. From the bottom of the tire to the ground measured 27.5. I think it would go more but the shock was pretty maxed on the drivers side and I don’t wanna destroy them right away. It never picked a tire off the ground completely. There is enough room to stock your hand all the way around the tire. well I didn’t buy bump-stops before our adventure today and I crammed the wheel up into the fender sliced the tire really good and bent a the fender way up. I managed to not take any pictures today. I was to excited about being out. We did 150 miles. some interstate a lot of backroads, a few miles of wheelin to more service roads and back. Then stopped at Lowe’s and bought a bunch of lumber covered in mud. I did get a pic of my brother-in-law’s xj on 35s

ordered fender flares from notch customs the m max. They are the best looking flares other then the flat tube ones in my opinion. Notch customs has them on backorder at the moment but I’m hoping I can get the template for them so I can go ahead and cut the fenders. For now it’s hauling wood and daily driving

I drove the truck to work today. 20 minutes each way. No stabilizer. Worn out swampers. 4th gear is everything you want to keep it in your lane. I took all back roads. it did really good actually. 4th gear you have to drive it, it’s not awful but you gotta pay attention for sure. With nothing slowing the steering down it wanders a bit. But it cruises 3rd like a stock truck. Still has plenty of power with the 4.10 gears. I wanna go even lower with the gearing but it’s a start. My stock power steering pump is feeling it though. Over heating and spitting fluid out the cap.

Thanks man!

Thanks man!

I am currently running 37s and I drilled tapped the box already with intentions to go to a bigger box later. I will look into the smaller pulley for sure. That’s a great idea

On the west Texas Offroad website their is a write up of how to make it flow more by drilling’s out the fitting. I have an extra stock pump that I am gonna try and do this to to see how much it helps. The write up also states that if you drill out the fitting to much you can blow the seals out of the box. thats nuts

If you alter the 97+ harness to the stock MJ plug I should still fit in some relays somewhere.. but where exactly or should I skip trying to fit this to my plug and just build a harness that plugs into the factory headlight plug and just uses the head plug off of one for the high and low beam signal

Do you have to upgrade the steering box because of the fittings?

I have never thought of looking at them online... I feel rather dumb for that one

I have a cooler with a inline filter attached to it. So does the wj pump push more fluid? I am headed to the junk yard this week and will see about the Dakota pumps. Is the bracketry the same? I work at a machine shop so I can machine a new mount

Has anyone done it with a stock pump? How much fluid does a stock MJ pump move? Is it worth doing? The reason for wanting to revalving the pump is to flow more fluid. I am planning on running hydro assist and have already drilled and tapped my steering box.

I finally installed some door parts. The smokers vent windows are well worth it the time to pull them Out of the pickapart I found a thread on here with the part number for the lower window trim. And have the runner trim on the way because the passenger one is shot. The drivers side is really good also I learned a lesson on welding bungs. I was trying to shorten my tie rod and I think I got a bb into the threads and didn’t know it. Of course it’s the left hand thread. I pulled all the threads out of the bung trying to get it out. i was able to mill the end of the hiem off at work and just cut the old hiem off and reweld a new bung in

Now you guys are catching on. Can’t steal what you can’t see

Got my mall crawl pose on today...country style. It needs longer shocks In The front and a good trim