bighause

You're right Eagle, the 2 wiring harnesses are very different and I would have to swap over the 2 entire harnesses to do it that way. Using the dealer installed AC cconnector will be much simpler for me, I'm just not sure where to go from that connector. My donor XJ is in really good shape so I plan to sell it once I get my AC working. I really don't want to tear up the wiring on it. Anyone with dealer installed AC want to snap a couple pics of the wiring for me?

I have the factory electrical manual but it does not go over over how to add AC. Any one with a FSM know if it would help me with this?

I'm in the middle of adding AC to my truck that never had it from day one. I have the dash wiring and condensor installed but I'm not sure about the underhood wiring. I have a complete running 89 XJ for my parts donor and there are only 3 wires under the hood for the AC. One orange wire that cycles the compressor clutch and 2 green wires (one with a black stripe) that connect to the low pressure switch. The dash wiring goes thru the firewall and stops at a weatherpak type connector near the air filter on my MJ. Did you just connect these wires to the clutch amd low presure sensor directly or did you have to use the factory relay and other wiring that runs to the relay? FYI both vehicles are 89 4.0's. Thanks for the help, I'm stumped at this point what to do. :dunno:

I added everything for cruise control in my 89 MJ from an 89 XJ and it is not working. I think this wire is my problem, but I'm not sure where it plugs into. This is not my picture but the plug on the end of the wire is loose under my dash

I've been busy with my AC install from my donor XJ and I'm to the point I need to order parts. The condenser has a hole in it and needs to be replaced. Do I just order one off eBay for the correct year or are there good and bad brands of these. I've seen them priced from $80 - $200. Any recomendations on where to buy?

I reused the factory 8.8 perches after cutting them of the axle. They ended up keeping the leaves within an inch of the axle tube. My whole swap cost me about $170 including paying $50 to have the perches and shock mounts welded on. With the spring over I didn't have to do anything to the driveshafts, it could stand to be about an inch shorter but I have never had an issue with it bottoming out the slip yoke. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I spent the time to clean and repaint the axle and calipers and it looks like new. Swapped in a HP D30 from a JY for $40 and got 4.10's and a rear limited slip. Soooooo much better than 3.08's and 33's :cheers:

I spent some time this morning at the JY comparing the different era AC components and discovered that they all use similiar wiring connections. The only AC wiring under the hood is for the compressor and the low pressure switch. The hose fittings are going to be era specific, (87-90, 91-93, 94-95) but as long as you grab everything from the same donor any year appears to be a direct fit. My truck does not have the orange and two green wires to connect the compressor and pressure switch, so I'll figure this out how to add these once I find a donor. Hopefully a 94-96XJ

I'm still looking for a donor jeep for ac and found one that is a 4cyl. Are the ac parts the same between the 2 engines?

I'm also in the planning stages of this, just need to find the right XJ. It's been so hot here in DFW I have only driven my truck once this month. Take pics as you go, the wiring looks like the most challenging part.

Does anyone know if the newer r134 components will work if I am swapping over an entire system?

From what I can tell by looking under the hood the wiring isn't there. Hopefully I can add the wiring needed like you did, I can't see jeep using different wiring harnesses for the ac option. This is a winter project for me so i'll be sure to take lots of pics when I tackle it. I'd like to drive my truck more but it's too hot in Dfw to not have AC.

What am I in for as far as wiring? Is the wiring there for the compressor, how about the dash controls? I guess no one has a write up for this?

I appreciate the offer but I plan to buy an entire beat up XJ, strip the ac parts, part out what I can and scrap the XJ shell. Hopefully I can recoup most of my cost by doing it this way and have a donor for other misc items I could use. I'm pretty mechanical but this will be my first attempt at any kind of AC work. If the r134 underhood components would work, that would be wonderful

I am looking for a donor XJ to get the parts I need to add A/C to my MJ. I plan to swap over everything as my truck never had A/C, I'm not sure what years are compatible though. Since I have a renix era truck do all the parts have to also be renix? If the HO era parts would work I would have a lot more options, but I have a feeling I'm not that lucky. Are there any links to this swap? The search won't let you look for "AC" :fs1:

If you are looking for something that installs like the powertrax no slip then you won't find anything selectable or with clutches. Only the automatic lunchbox lockers (like the noslip) drop in without having to have the gears done.

I also tried this... Resulted in breaking the needle clean off and buying a new gauge cluster I wouldn't recomend it

I had a warn m8000 on my cj7 that was completely submerged several times and it never seem to hurt it. I never used it while submerged though, seems like a bad idea :???:

I'm a big fan of the 8.8 swap after doing mine. Only cost me $175 including having new perches and mounts welded on. Came with 4.10 gears, posi, and disc brakes. I secured my e brake cables just like in the above picture.

I'm with Eagle on this one, snow is a good reason to have a posi, otherwise your just going to spin one tire, 2 at best in 4wd. Some people say they are dangerous on slick roads but don't believe the hype.

I did this a few months ago and it was pretty easy, i added wheel spacers for cosmetic reasons but it worked fine without them. I didn't change any thing with my master cylinder or load sensing valve and the brakes work well. Take the time to clean up and paint the axle before you put it in and take it to a welding shop if you don't have a welder like me. Cost me $50 to weld on the spring and shock mounts.

My friend has the Silverstars in his Rubicon and they made a big difference. They are much brighter and whiter than the stock lights, I will be using them when I get past my overheating issues :wall:

The splines are not lined up or the input shaft is not oriented correctly for the tranny input shaft to slide into the flywheel correctly. I went thru this exact issue when replacing the internal slave cylinder on my 89 and it took a lot of wiggling/wrestling the tranny to get it to finally go the last inch or so. My problem was that the tranny was not at the right angle, if it is just the splines being off, you can put it in gear and turn the output shaft to align them, it has to be at just the right angle though for the input shaft to slide into the flywheel.

With my current 4.10 gears and 33's the motor should be under less strain than the stock 3.08 gears and 28's. I don't have a winch or heavy items bolted to the truck (yet). No doubt a 2 or 3 core radiator would be better, but it seems like with everything replaced in the cooling system but the engine block, it would be up to the task since it only had a 1 core radiator for the last 21 years. The truck failed emission testing recently, could that have something to do with the overheating? Next thing to replace if the radiator isn't clogged would be the 21yr old cat I guess. :wall:

I removed the lower radiator hose from the water pump and drained the radiator with the truck facing down a hill to get as much coolant out as possible out. Is there a better way to drain the system? It didn't seem like enough out, but I did spill a lot in the process. I drove the truck to work today and it is better, but it's still overheating, it just takes longer to do it. I guess I'll pull the new radiator out see if it is clogged. Hopefully the coolant won't turn brown again in a month. The radiator is a single core just like the factory one I replaced, I'm wondering if I need a 2 core to keep up with the 100 degree temps :???: What else can I do to flush the engine other than keep adding coolant flush?

I forgot to mention that when I was replacing parts, I converted to an open cooling system in the process. I used pre-diluted coolant when refilling the system (I know better than to use tap water), the previous owner definitely neglected the truck and I'm sure if he ever added coolant he used tap water. I am still flushing the system since it says to run it for a total of 3-4 hours even if it takes several days. I plan to drain and refill the system tonight and see what happens. I checked for the lower hose collapsing under acceleration and high revs but see no signs of this. Thanks for the replies, keep the ideas coming